I held the shop vac up to it as I was drilling, but no I didn’t take the IC off. I tried to go nice and slow to get the fat shavings that could easily be sucked up by the shop vac. Same thing for tapping the hole.
nice writeup! makes me want to go PTFE…
Not a single leak found anywhere yet. It also made me realize I need to do something different with my high beam wires.
At least wrap them in some self adhesive bonding tape so protect them. do you funnel them in through the ECU box or through the fender grommet?
Fender grommet at the moment.
so so clean on the install. Any testing yet. I can’t see it not making a big impact.
Thanks. No significant testing yet. Just a single log to satisfy my curiosity. So far, I’m able to run a solid 4 degrees more timing at redline (not done with this yet, I’ll go higher), I saw a 6C drop in IATs before they started climbing again (still below ambient at redline), and the car pulls like a freight train instead of losing some of it’s punch around 4.5-5k rpm.
I’m curious to know why you decided to tap into the FMIC and not just a bit further up stream at either a silicon fitting or hard pipe…I don’t think the extra few inches would impact evaporation significantly. Just curious, not saying it’s wrong.
I’m not a fan of mounting nozzles in soft couplers/hoses. It seems like a lazy man’s way out to me. I question their long term reliability. If for whatever reason I need to remove the nozzle down the road, I can just screw in a plug (or weld it shut if I get my TIG welder). I went with the end tank over the piping simply because it is a nice flat surface. The thickness is comparable to my aluminum charge pipes, but I felt I could get a more secure fit by installing it on the flat end tank. I don’t know if it matters much or not, but in my head it seemed more beneficial to give the nozzle spray room to fan out vs. installing it in a 2.25" charge pipe. I figured the more it could expand right off the bat, the faster it could evaporate. This could be completely bogus though.
As expected, there is significant sloshing in the tank when you drive hard. I start to get intermittent low level signals when I’ve used about a gallon out of the 2.5 gallon tank. Not a huge deal, but I’ve got a plan to deal with it. I just bought a TIG welder, so I’m going to make a stainless meth tank complete with baffles to minimize sloshing. I’ve also considered using fuel cell foam but haven’t decided. I will probably mount the new tank outside the cubby and just behind the driver’s side rear seat. I’ll probably shoot for something in the neighborhood of 3 gallons.
Baffles work good fuel foam works best.
Thread update: I made my own meth tank out of aluminum and ditched the plastic tank. Capacity went from 2.5 gallons to 4 gallons with the new tank.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsdb502b02.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsb888d073.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpse4af6042.jpg
C’mon man, you gotta make that door install a little cleaner. At least make a semi gasket around the hole. The tank and everything else is too pretty to just have the project finished like that lol.
Nice work on the rest of it though!
some small diameter heater hose with a slice in it around that edge might do the trick just to clean it up.
I wonder what would be the benefits of meth to the B7 RS4’s. Longevity of the engine, maybe?
I’m going to do something with it. I just don’t know what yet. It went in at 11pm and I didn’t have anything available to put around that edge.
Nice tight fit. Really looks like your using all the available space
Did you vent the tank?
Yessir, I drilled a 1/16" hole in the cap to vent it.
Just an update: 5 months in and there is absolutely zero signs of any corrosion inside the aluminum tank.