I’ve been kicking around the idea of getting meth for a while now, and when CTS had their group buy, I caved. I tend to obsess about things like this, so immediately after opening the box, I started setting aside the parts that I wasn’t going to use. A few late nights and online orders later, I had a kit that I think will make me happy. In fact, the only things I’m actually using from the Snow kit is the pump and controller.
Here’s what I decided to change:
2.5 gallon tank (usplastics.com for like $20)
INA Engineering throttle body plate
Devil’s Own nozzles (plan is to use a DO2 and a DO4)
Devil’s Own inline filter
Devil’s Own check valve
Devil’s Own solenoid
Instead of using the supplied ¼" nylon tubing, I decided to use -4AN PTFE braided SS line. This was the bulk of my cost for the upgrades.
I’m still waiting for most of that stuff to arrive, so I figured I would make a two-part DIY, starting with the electrical portion. I did the wiring over the course of two evenings with a grand total of about 4 hours spent. There wasn’t much disassembly required either, although some of my prior mods may have helped this.
To start off, I started by buying some bulk wire at Autozone so I could extend the wires coming from the controller. There is only like 2-3 ft. there to work with, so you pretty much have to do this. I just laid everything out on my table and soldered some more wire of the same color onto each wire. The wires coming out of the controller are 16 ga. wire, but I guesstimated wrong and bought 14 ga. No biggie. You’ll probably also want to do the same thing to the pump, although you will only need a little bit. I added about 5-6 ft of wire to the red and yellow wires and about 15 ft to the green wire (I used red wire here since it goes to the red wire on the pump). I put the controller into the glovebox, so you may need to adjust lengths depending on where you put yours.
Coming out of the controller are 4 wires: red, black, yellow, and green
Red - needs to be connected to a 12v switched power source
Black - this is the ground, as you probably guessed
Green - this is the power output of the controller that is connected to the positive wire (red) of the pump
Yellow - this wire gets tapped into the MAF wiring harness to give the controller your airflow signal
I started with the yellow wire first. I decided to just snake it up through the firewall and through the same grommet as my amp power cable. This can be kind of a bitch, so have a few beers handy as well as a wire coat hangar or something similar to help find the hole and pull the wire through. You need to drop the glovebox to do this, which consists of something like seven 8mm bolts. It’s pretty self explanatory, so no pictures of that.
Here’s my yellow wire coming through the firewall, just beside the battery.
From There, I slipped it through another grommet into the engine bay. I wrapped it in tape mainly to hide the bright yellow wire.
I cut some zip ties and slid it inside the sheath containing the MAF wiring. In hindsight, I could have made the connection here. Instead I went further down closer to the connector, and made my splice there. The wire you are connecting to is the purple wire. It goes into socket #1 in the connector. I just cut back the insulation, twisted my yellow wire onto the purple wire and soldered them together. Then give the joint a good wrap with electrical tape or equivalent, and button your harness back up. I wrapped up a good portion with electrical tape and then zip tied everything back together. This is my end result.
Next I did the ground wire for the controller. You don’t need to extend this wire any, because there are a number of convenient grounds within reach. I just crimped on a terminal, covered it with heat shrink, and attached it to this ground which is located behind the glovebox.
Then came the green wire. This wire needs to run back to your pump so it has to be pretty long. I decided to run it down the passenger side under the plastic trim that runs the length of the car. Once I got to the back seat, I routed it up under the padded seat trim things the seat belt rests on, through the rear shelf and down into the driver’s side cubby. I had taken the plastic portion of this out a while back because my amp used to be here on a rack that I made. I relocated it to the trunk in order to install my meth kit the way I wanted. If your plastic cubby compartment is still there, you will need to remove it. A word of caution though, wear gloves when dealing with the metal demon clips that hold the molded carpet side cover in place near the trunk weather stripping. I didn’t and they drew blood. Here is a shot of the wire going through the rear shelf and the spade connector I put at the end of it in order to remove my pump should I ever need to.
You can see the pump wire on either end of the shelf. Ignore the Boost-a-pump that is sitting there doing nothing. I need to remove that.
Last is the power source to the controller. Like I said earlier, this needs to be a switched 12v source, meaning that it must go on and off with the ignition. I looked for good sources for this but couldn’t find any online. I saw Draklore’s BMP DIY but I’m not sure the circuit he chose is ideal for the potential current the pump may draw. I got out my test light and did some poking around in the fuse box.
BINGO! This particular 30 amp fuse seemed ideal to me because the wiring is nice and thick to support a decent current, and it belongs to a fairly inconsequential system. The circuit in question is the windshield washer pump. I think it’s safe to say that I won’t be trying to clean my windshield whilst hauling ass and spraying meth, so there should be no issues here. I think those fuse holder tap jumper thingamabobs look ghetto, so I decided to tap the wire itself on the backside. Here you’ll need to drop the knee bolster down. There are three 8mm bolts holding it in place. I popped off the back cover to the fuse box and found the wires in question. Make sure to use the “output side” or you lose the protection of the fuse. It should be the rear wire, but you can pull the fuse and just see which of the two still has power and use the dead one. I just the plastic wire tap that came with the snow kit for this connection. It’s too awkward of a spot to try to solder (for me at least).
I just tucked my little bit of extra wire up under the cover.
Wiring for the pump is pretty easy. Hook your red wire to the green wire you ran from the controller and the black wire to ground. I’m going to use the same ground point that I use for my amp.
Here you can see the extra length of wires added to the pump and the connectors.