Snow Stage 2 Meth install (aka how to spend too much money on a meth kit)

I’ve been kicking around the idea of getting meth for a while now, and when CTS had their group buy, I caved. I tend to obsess about things like this, so immediately after opening the box, I started setting aside the parts that I wasn’t going to use. A few late nights and online orders later, I had a kit that I think will make me happy. In fact, the only things I’m actually using from the Snow kit is the pump and controller.

Here’s what I decided to change:
2.5 gallon tank ( for like $20)
INA Engineering throttle body plate
Devil’s Own nozzles (plan is to use a DO2 and a DO4)
Devil’s Own inline filter
Devil’s Own check valve
Devil’s Own solenoid
Instead of using the supplied ¼" nylon tubing, I decided to use -4AN PTFE braided SS line. This was the bulk of my cost for the upgrades.

I’m still waiting for most of that stuff to arrive, so I figured I would make a two-part DIY, starting with the electrical portion. I did the wiring over the course of two evenings with a grand total of about 4 hours spent. There wasn’t much disassembly required either, although some of my prior mods may have helped this.

To start off, I started by buying some bulk wire at Autozone so I could extend the wires coming from the controller. There is only like 2-3 ft. there to work with, so you pretty much have to do this. I just laid everything out on my table and soldered some more wire of the same color onto each wire. The wires coming out of the controller are 16 ga. wire, but I guesstimated wrong and bought 14 ga. No biggie. You’ll probably also want to do the same thing to the pump, although you will only need a little bit. I added about 5-6 ft of wire to the red and yellow wires and about 15 ft to the green wire (I used red wire here since it goes to the red wire on the pump). I put the controller into the glovebox, so you may need to adjust lengths depending on where you put yours.

Coming out of the controller are 4 wires: red, black, yellow, and green

Red - needs to be connected to a 12v switched power source
Black - this is the ground, as you probably guessed
Green - this is the power output of the controller that is connected to the positive wire (red) of the pump
Yellow - this wire gets tapped into the MAF wiring harness to give the controller your airflow signal

I started with the yellow wire first. I decided to just snake it up through the firewall and through the same grommet as my amp power cable. This can be kind of a bitch, so have a few beers handy as well as a wire coat hangar or something similar to help find the hole and pull the wire through. You need to drop the glovebox to do this, which consists of something like seven 8mm bolts. It’s pretty self explanatory, so no pictures of that.

Here’s my yellow wire coming through the firewall, just beside the battery.

From There, I slipped it through another grommet into the engine bay. I wrapped it in tape mainly to hide the bright yellow wire.

I cut some zip ties and slid it inside the sheath containing the MAF wiring. In hindsight, I could have made the connection here. Instead I went further down closer to the connector, and made my splice there. The wire you are connecting to is the purple wire. It goes into socket #1 in the connector. I just cut back the insulation, twisted my yellow wire onto the purple wire and soldered them together. Then give the joint a good wrap with electrical tape or equivalent, and button your harness back up. I wrapped up a good portion with electrical tape and then zip tied everything back together. This is my end result.

Next I did the ground wire for the controller. You don’t need to extend this wire any, because there are a number of convenient grounds within reach. I just crimped on a terminal, covered it with heat shrink, and attached it to this ground which is located behind the glovebox.

Then came the green wire. This wire needs to run back to your pump so it has to be pretty long. I decided to run it down the passenger side under the plastic trim that runs the length of the car. Once I got to the back seat, I routed it up under the padded seat trim things the seat belt rests on, through the rear shelf and down into the driver’s side cubby. I had taken the plastic portion of this out a while back because my amp used to be here on a rack that I made. I relocated it to the trunk in order to install my meth kit the way I wanted. If your plastic cubby compartment is still there, you will need to remove it. A word of caution though, wear gloves when dealing with the metal demon clips that hold the molded carpet side cover in place near the trunk weather stripping. I didn’t and they drew blood. Here is a shot of the wire going through the rear shelf and the spade connector I put at the end of it in order to remove my pump should I ever need to.

You can see the pump wire on either end of the shelf. Ignore the Boost-a-pump that is sitting there doing nothing. I need to remove that.

Last is the power source to the controller. Like I said earlier, this needs to be a switched 12v source, meaning that it must go on and off with the ignition. I looked for good sources for this but couldn’t find any online. I saw Draklore’s BMP DIY but I’m not sure the circuit he chose is ideal for the potential current the pump may draw. I got out my test light and did some poking around in the fuse box.

BINGO! This particular 30 amp fuse seemed ideal to me because the wiring is nice and thick to support a decent current, and it belongs to a fairly inconsequential system. The circuit in question is the windshield washer pump. I think it’s safe to say that I won’t be trying to clean my windshield whilst hauling ass and spraying meth, so there should be no issues here. I think those fuse holder tap jumper thingamabobs look ghetto, so I decided to tap the wire itself on the backside. Here you’ll need to drop the knee bolster down. There are three 8mm bolts holding it in place. I popped off the back cover to the fuse box and found the wires in question. Make sure to use the “output side” or you lose the protection of the fuse. It should be the rear wire, but you can pull the fuse and just see which of the two still has power and use the dead one. I just the plastic wire tap that came with the snow kit for this connection. It’s too awkward of a spot to try to solder (for me at least).

I just tucked my little bit of extra wire up under the cover.

Wiring for the pump is pretty easy. Hook your red wire to the green wire you ran from the controller and the black wire to ground. I’m going to use the same ground point that I use for my amp.

Here you can see the extra length of wires added to the pump and the connectors.

Started today by swapping out the pump head for the ⅜ NPT port version. There is no way to remove the pushlock connectors on the old head, so you have to buy a new head. I got mine from Devil’s Own. When swapping the heads, make sure to keep your screw straight as they are different lengths. Everything uses a T20 bit.

After swapping the heads, I temporarily put some 90 degree fittings on so I could position the pump where I want it and still have plenty of room for the attached hoses. I also used an inkpad and a notecard to make a template for drilling the mounting holes for the pump. A few spins with the drill later and I’ve got the pump securely mounted.

I also installed the INA Engineering throttle body plate today. There is a bracket below the throttle body with two electrical connectors attached to it that has to be removed in order to make it fit. I’m just going to zip tie the harness in place. I’m pretty sure I’ll also not be using my DO nozzle holder here. It gets tight at the wrong angle, and I don’t want it to leak. I’m just going to order a ⅛ NPT to -4AN fitting and come straight up from the nozzle. That path works better with where I’m putting my solenoid/filter assembly anyways.

You can kind of see the offending bracket in this picture ^^^

This is how my solenoid, filter and T are all connected. I wanted to minimize hoses between components because hose end cost goes up quickly. On the right is the nozzle that’s going at the FMIC outlet. It is connected directly to a DO check valve. The solenoid will prevent siphoning from the tank, and this check valve will prevent the post-TB nozzle from suckingair from the other side of the throttle plate and draining that length of line.

This is a work in progress as you can probably tell, but I’ll be updating it as I go.

Wow looks great already! I like that you went the extra mile on everything, you can tell that there is truly quality in your craftsmanship.

you really can’t spend too much when making a wm kit for the car. The MO was for the B5 guys to get a cheap as they could and before you knew it they hydro locked there cars.

You did it right good fittings good parts and good suporting hardware. That will produce great consistent results. Really good to see this kind of care for the work you guys do. I always figgured the 2.0T A4 guys were going to go the path of the failed B5 guys or the 1.8t guys. Thats where they sprial down hill using cheap parts and getting cheaper results. Its good to see great attention to detail and not being afraid to get the right parts. Mec is right great quality in your craftsmanship

Loving this DIY Adam! Such a great walk through so far for anyone wanting to DIY a WM kit!

Didn’t get much accomplished tonight, but all forward progress is good progress. I drilled the holes in the tank for the pump pickup and the low level sensor. I used the Goop included with the Snow kit to seal up both penetrations. I used the Devil’s Own -4 AN tank tap and their low level sensor. The DO level sensor had what I thought was a better design, so I won’t be using the Snow one for anything. I also made up the hose for between the tank and pump. I made it plenty long so I could easily pull the tank out of the cubby for filling.

For those who have never worked with PTFE hose, putting the fittings on is slightly different than rubber AN hose. The fittings are 3 pieces instead of 2. Here is a basic run down on how to put a fitting on the end of the hose.

  1. Cut the hose where you want it. It helps to wrap it with duct tape and cut through the tape to help prevent fraying of the stainless braiding. You can use cutoff wheels, tubing cutters, or even just a hack saw to cut the hose.

  2. Slide the fitting nut onto the hose and then use a small screwdriver to pry back the braiding from the inner hose. (I forgot to do this here, but I just slid it on the other end)

  3. Press the compression fitting onto the inner hose. Make sure it is fully seated.

  4. Push the main piece of the fitting into the hose and then tighten up your nut that you slid onto the hose earlier. If you are using a 90 degree fitting, be sure to pay attention to the orientation of the fitting while tightening. The hose won’t want to bend later if it’s facing the wrong way.

Got a lot accomplished today, but unfortunately, I’m not quite finished. I finished my solenoid mount and got that assembly bolted up, ran the lines from the pump to the solenoid under the car parallel to the brake lines, and switched out my Devil’s Own nozzle holder on the TB spacer for a ⅛ NPT to -4 AN adapter from Aeroquip. I had to remove the nozzle filter, but I’m not too worried since I have a mesh filter on the tank tap and an in-line filter before the solenoid.

Here’s the bracket I made for the solenoid.

This is how I ran the line from the pump to the solenoid:

I used a 90 degree bulkhead fitting to go from the trunk to the wheel well. This seemed like the best way to prevent the line from rubbing on the sharp edge of a hole. Conveniently, there was an open spot on the brackets that hold all the brake lines. I slipped the line in there and added zip ties on either side of each bracket for good measure. In the last picture you can see the end of the hose peaking up below the solenoid. I’m still waiting on the fitting I need to connect it to the filter/solenoid assembly. I’m also going to shorten the hose that goes to the TB nozzle when I get a chance. I want it slightly long though to allow for the movement of the engine.

This picture shows how easy it will be to fill the tank. If you make the line long enough, you can pull the tank all the way out to fill it.

I ran out of braided hose when running the main line, so I’ll have to get more. For anyone doing a similar setup (with either nylon tubing or AN line), you will need right about 26’ to route everything like I did. I just need another 3’ or so for the line from the solenoid to the FMIC outlet.

To do yet:
Drill and tap end tank of FMIC for the nozzle
Make the hose and install the nozzle in FMIC
Connect main line to filter inlet
Wire the LEDs and solenoid

Very professional looking. I like the hard line. This all looks very robust and well done.

Not a huge update, but I have made some forward progress. I wired in the tank level and pump status LEDs today, connected the main line to the filter and shortened my line to the TB nozzle about an inch. I’m getting pretty close to being done, I just need to wire the solenoid and install my post FMIC nozzle.

The ⅜ NPT to -4AN adapter finally showed up, so I was able to connect the line to the bottom of the filter. I’m much happier with the length of my TB nozzle hose now also.

I ran the wires from the tank to the column under the plastic trim on the drivers side. It’s really easy, just route it and tuck it up in there with your fingers. I was running low on space in some spots though since my speakers wires are run in the same location.

My LEDs are grounded to the same point as my boost gauge. Nice short wire runs make it easier to keep things neat.

Controller is mounted temporarily with zip ties because I got tired of hearing it flop around while driving. I need to come up with a slightly more elegant solution. I was possibly thinking about using double sided tape.

I found a really convenient ground point for my solenoid. It’s just to the left of the WW tank in this picture (follow the brown wires). I need to route the other wire from the solenoid and tap it into the pump wire still.

Finished up the install today. Still need to fine tune everything before moving on to Maestro to crank timing up. Wiring of the solenoid is pretty simple. One wire to ground and the other to the green wire of the controller (output to pump). I went in the car in the wheel well at the same place as the wires for my bixenon high beams.

Last piece of the puzzle is to add the FMIC nozzle. I pulled the bumper and drilled and tapped the hole right in the end tank. I originally wanted to put it on the back to hide it, but space constraints wouldn’t allow it. After putting everything back together, I found out that I’ll need to buy a 45 degree hose end and possibly shorten the hose to keep it from sticking out of the bumper.


Did you take off the intercooler to verify there are no metal shavings?

I held the shop vac up to it as I was drilling, but no I didn’t take the IC off. I tried to go nice and slow to get the fat shavings that could easily be sucked up by the shop vac. Same thing for tapping the hole.

nice writeup! makes me want to go PTFE…

Not a single leak found anywhere yet. It also made me realize I need to do something different with my high beam wires.

At least wrap them in some self adhesive bonding tape so protect them. do you funnel them in through the ECU box or through the fender grommet?

Fender grommet at the moment.

so so clean on the install. Any testing yet. I can’t see it not making a big impact.

Thanks. No significant testing yet. Just a single log to satisfy my curiosity. So far, I’m able to run a solid 4 degrees more timing at redline (not done with this yet, I’ll go higher), I saw a 6C drop in IATs before they started climbing again (still below ambient at redline), and the car pulls like a freight train instead of losing some of it’s punch around 4.5-5k rpm.

I’m curious to know why you decided to tap into the FMIC and not just a bit further up stream at either a silicon fitting or hard pipe…I don’t think the extra few inches would impact evaporation significantly. Just curious, not saying it’s wrong.