So I went Stage 2

As the title states, I went Stage 2 while I had my car in for my 45k service at Reeves Audi. It’s definitely a kick in the pants. Was a good 30 minutes after I pulled out of the dealership before I got a chance to punch it due to traffic, but the acceleration is almost scary fast now and takes a bit of adjusting as it’s super easy to pick up more speed much quicker than you’re anticipating and really get up on someone’s rear bumper quickly when passing on the highway. IMO, the effect feels similar to making every gear about 1/2-3/4 lower (i.e. 2nd now accelerates almost like 1st did with stage 1, 3rd more like 2nd, etc). Perfectly driveable, though. Definitely happy with this upgrade.

On a side note, I also had them put the Apikol red diff mount on while the car was up on the lift for tires. Definitely recommended for 6mt owners. There’s noticeably less bounce or rebound when shifting and it seems to make it a fair amount easier to be smooth when rowing through the gears. I wouldn’t call it night and day, but I definitely can tell it is there.

So you went from stage 1 to stage 2? I’m going stage 2 next week from stage 1, so just trying to gauge how noticeable it’s going to be as apposed to going straight to stage 2 from stock like most have.

Yeah, stage 1 to stage 2. It’s much more noticeable down low. When you floor it, you’ll be thrown back in your seat pretty hard. Stage 1 was a slight uptick in power down low, but primarily when you get up to the top of the band, you keep getting pressed back in your seat to redline rather than running out of steam.

Ugh I can’t wait! How long did it take for the break in? I’ve heard anywhere from 50 miles to a few cold cycles. Sounds like you were already feeling it after being stuck in traffic for 30 minutes. Is it still getting faster?

Nice! It was a good jump going from stage 1 to stage 2. I can’t wait to get my diff mount that I ordered from JHM lol

Do you mean the adaptation? I had another 45 mins or so of highway driving between the dealership and home to get a few full throttle pulls in, and then took it out again later that night for a housewarming party at a friend’s. I think by now it’s probably fully adapted but I’ll keep an eye on the boost level on my P3 gauge.

Yea, adaptation was the word I was looking for. How’s your clutch holding up, any slippage?

I haven’t launched it yet, but I did a few days ago when I was still stage 1 at under 3k rpms. Caught first, but when I shifted into second the clutch slipped all the way through. Acceleration stopped but revs climbed up over 5k. Seemed more like the shitty dual mass flywheel design is responsible than the clutch itself, as when I drop the clutch into 2nd it feels like there’s a bit of a bounce in the engagement, which is what I think causes the slip. I’ll probably go with a new clutch and flywheel sometime next year. Don’t want to pay for it right now though and mine will work fine as long as I’m not launching.

Yea it seems like it’s hit or miss with everyone. I haven’t had any slip on stage 1, I very rarely launch but I definitely do plenty of 1-2 and 2-3 WOT shifts. I guess I’ll see how it goes with stage 2. Thanks for all the replys!

your time will come!

The B7 picks up a few tenths with exhaust and a few tenths with tune and lw parts. Today my car with just exhaust went 12.51@110.5 (vs 12.7-12.8 @ 108 stock) while another rs4 with my exact exhaust + tune and lw rotors went 12.21@113.2. There’s still loads left on the table for the 4.2 RS cars despite the (incorrect) belief that they are ‘already wrung out’ from the factory.

Yeah, I’m just hanging on for good production options.

;D

DrU from JHM was showing me pics of an RS5 in your colour that he took some great photos of. It was a customer. Any idea what the guy had done?

What boost are you seeing on your p3? ive been seeing 14.9-15.3 on mine as max.

Depends on gear and ambient temps and elevation (I’m at sea level)

3rd gear - 16.5-17.1 vag com/ 17.5-18.1

4th gear I have seen up to 18.1 psi. (19.1 on gauge)

Both vag com confirmed.

Gauge (manual boost tap) reads about a psi high.

Apr stage 2

I’m going stage 2 this week also. Can’t wait.

I decided to go APR after much back-and-forth. At the end of the day, the local APR dealer was just a lot easier to deal with. I had originally wanted to go GIAC/AWE, but the quote my (only) local GIAC/AWE dealer gave me was crazy ($750 install). I decided to install the pulley myself regardless, but the GIAC/AWE dealer scared me off with that crazy quote and it was getting difficult to get the pulley and tune separately. Now just hoping the APR pulley shows up this week so I can get this done ASAP…

750 is nuts. $100 for tune + $300 for pulley would be fair. $400. You’d probably have taken it.

But as a result, GIAC loses $1200 in revenue, and APR gains it. Interesting dynamic there where the software guys are in a pure profit position at this point having recovered their tuning costs…but the dealer network makes/breaks it.

Pretty much my thoughts exactly. I would have probably paid them for the install if they would have quoted $350-$400, and been done with it. In the end, it was such a turn off, I wanted nothing to do with them. The APR dealer quoted just over $400, but I had already decided I would install it myself at that point (along with another local guy what went GIAC–he bought the pulley removal tool).

The GIAC/AWE dealer is a high end European repair shop that does not do much aftermarket at all. I actually think GIAC/AWE is one of the only aftermarket products they sell, so they are use to crazy expensive repairs on Porsche’s and Ranger Rovers. They really should have a different rate for easy stuff like this, or better yet, GIAC/AWE needs to find an aftermarket shop in DFW… You know, only 6 million people live here…

Even 350-400 is a bit high, though more reasonable. The tune shouldn’t add anything to the time. My local APR shop charges for 2.5 hours of labor ($250). Anything over $300 is too much I think.

$350 was my threshold. Less I would have considered paying to have it done, but anything more, I have no issue busting out the wrenches. Normally I would have done it myself regardless (I don’t have a job), but I am tearing apart my B5 S4 in the garage, and it is taking up most of the room/time…

Since we are on the top now of pricing, One reason i went with one dealer over another, is i found many charge sales tax on the tune portion. What do you guys think? should tax be paid for a flash? or should it be considered a service? I have no problem paying tax for a pulley as that is a physical item.

Tax on a tune is over $100 extra here to spend.

While doing my homework finding a shop, i found some charging up to 2 hours labor for the flash!, most were a standard 1hr shop fee. Found a shop that waived the flash fee with the purchase.

So doing my homework i saved about $200 in added fees.