This started after hurricane Mathew. Had been using car to charge my cell phone after the storm and that made my battery weak. Some how fan control module went, causing fan not to cut off. I disconnected the battery until I was able to get a new one. I finally get the car back together after 3 weeks and I am getting a strange idle sound and feel. I’m also getting a burping or popping sound back though the air box. No other symptoms. I haven’t drove the car, but let it run for about 45mins. Checked for codes and I don’t have any nor any pending. I don’t know if I need to reset the TB. Now when I did connect the battery for the first time last week I got a strange code for fuel injector #7. I cleared it right after and it didn’t come back. Readiness is not set for everything yet so don’t know if that could be part of the issue. Before disconnecting the battery I had zero issues.
Very possible that you need to relearn the throttle body. Sounds like you had a lot going on. To have the fan module die seems odd as well. any chance you got water damage that came from high winds with lots of water content.
The popping isnt good but if you dont have any codes thats a good start. Things might clear up as you drive the car. The cars dont like low battery voltage so that might be a part in some of the issues.
Car was parked in a carport with the nose away from the wind and rain. Still was a lot of moisture in the air though. I had moisture in the fan control module when I took the plugs out. I do plan on getting another battery, but I want to get this solved so I can get the car inspected.
Well an update. Drove car to and from work, about 30mi each way with no issues. No difference in prior performance. No codes and all readiness passed, but I still have this issue at idle. Its more like a stumble or vacuum leak. The only thing I could think that I did thinking back was I leaned on the drivers side bank when I was checking under the ecu, I heard a crack sound. I was leaning on the fuel injector area when I heard in. I checked that area, but didn’t see anything. Then I got the injector #7 code and I cleared it and never came back. Didn’t have this issue before unhooking battery. I’m open to ideas to solve this.
Still doing in after a few days, no codes. I had planned to change my valve cover gaskets and plugs before this popped up, so maybe changing the plugs will solve this issue since I am over due. One thing that I noticed over the past few days is that it has been burning more gas. I will look inspect the #7 injector has I got that code once. Also does anyone know if under the drivers side fuel rail if that small plastic tube is a vacuum line, if so what does it go to?
Check block 034 thats the LTFT and STFT and idle and part throttle. That will help tell you more and lead you in the right direction or let you know if there are no issues. Get the valves and feel free to post them here. I and the others can let you know what we think
Well I finally got time to check things over. I was getting ready to check group 32 & 33 and I said to myself lets check for fault codes first. This is what comes up.
Well checked and re-seated the injector plugs on the drivers side. Didn’t see anything with the #5 plug, but the #7 plug was cracked on the injector side. I cleared the code have not driven the car yet though, will drive it to work tomorrow. I still felt issue at idle though. Will see if code comes back. If it does I know the issue is some where in that area. I did notice the my fast self did not put the oil dipstick back in all the way : . Seated that back in. I did not remove the fuel injector yet though, I want to have new o-rings and pintle caps on hand first just in case I need them. If the code does not come back, I have new spark plugs and I’ll try those and see if that changes things. I’m kinda at a loss right now.
I feel the injectors on our cars are very easy to remove. Just unbolt the fuel rail from the IM and you can pull up. The injectors will pull out of the IM and they are held into the fuel rail with clips
The injectors are not too bad to take out. You really should spray a little penitration lube at the base of each injector as they like to get stuck. When you unbolt the fuel rail rock the rail back and forth it will help loosen up the injectors.
The one thing you want to look for again is that fuel code. That will help tell a lot. Also if you have a leaky valve cover or the PCV is compermised somewhere that will cause issues as well.
Well injector code has not come back. Valve covers are sweeping, but that’s been for awhile and was planning to fix that before this happened. As for pcv that was on the maintenance list as well. I just didn’t have this issue until I killed the battery, thats the strange thing. I made a little vid for the fuel trim and that should be listed below. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6MGIy_t4e8g
Nothing looked off. Check 001 that is real time STFT stuff.
Also keep in mind if your valve covers have a leak that is technically a vac leak.
This could have been there before the batt died. But after the batt dies the ecu resets and the act of the ECU resetting could have caused the fuel trims to get out of wack due to something actually being wrong and the car is relearning the fuel trims again
I just went ahead and started changing the gaskets. I already and everything from the summer, just never did it. I just changed the drivers side today as well as the plugs. Thats not a job for someone that is tall. I had to tap out and just did one side today. You could tell oil was seeping out on that side. Didn’t look like a lot, but who knows whats going on at speed. The tube seals were letting some oil past, the top of the plugs were wet.