Hi guys i have an audi s5 2013 supercharged. I got the car from auction with 27k miles and i was wondering how to remove the whole subrame piece because its cracked on one side by wheel. I see the steering rack in the way. how would i go about removing the steering rack? so i can drop it down and change it.
There are 4 bolts holding the steering rack in place and I think 3 electrical plugs ('13-on have electric/hyd steering). You will also have to pop out both steering tie rods from the uprights and there is a small triple square bolt (XZN) that you need to remove from the universal joint from the steering wheel shaft where it slides onto the splined shaft on the rack.
With that said, that is after you remove at least the front two belly pans under the car. Will most likely need to get an alignment afterward but should be fairly close when bolted back in. Also if you are looking for a new/used rack, pretty much any rack from a '13-on A4, S4, A5, S5, RS5 will fit as long as you replace a dynamic steering rack with a dynamic steering rack or a non-dynamic with a non-dynamic.
Yeah i got it off it was a complete nightmare. To describe there was like these rods that went into rotors from the steering on each side and you have to bang the nut out to remove whole piece. Well one came off easy and other side was beyond rusted which i have no idea why. I broke the threads on it trying to remove it. I almost even cut it. I managed to loosen some piece on it. I didn’t know it could be loosen like that but that was beyond hard trying but i got it and i removed the entire thing. I had to use a crowbar the whole thing it was stuck in there. I struggled to even get it off with it lol. I assume this car sat for a long time at a auction place and some how got wet under there. Even some bolts rusted so bad they lost there shape.
Quick question does all bolts holding that subframe have to be changed
I realized I pretty much only answered the Steering rack question…and I hadn’t even been drinking. Audi says they may be re-used one time only so you should be good. If you are trying to keep the engine/transmission in place get some blocks under the transmission mount and block up the bellhousing/oil pan area. I try to use some heavy foam under a large block to distribute the weight. You will have to remove the front wheels in order to unbolt the engine mounts from either side. Both lower suspension arms on each side bolt into the Aluminum cradle. The cradle have been a known weak link with the whold B8 series of cars. A slight tap and they crack. I know it is relatively low mileage but you might consider (not cheap) replacing the engine mounts while your in there as you see how much work it is getting to them and even though they are low mileage they are now 8+ years old. Consider the 034 mounts, they come with the resistors to plug into the OEM harness to cancel any errors.
Soak every nut/bolt well with penetrating oil at least a day prior to removing them. A good tie rod puller/set is a must if you want to save them but steering tie rods are fairly cheap. To get it close carefully unscrew them and count how many turns it takes for them to pop off and screw the replacements on approximately (hopefully within one turn) the same amount, otherwise the cars tow-in will be off by a fair amount (alignment needed).
The mounts were messed up from the accident anyway and see the subframe piece broke there that making the wheel curved
Just front end damage? I also bought a ‘13 S5 w/low mileage that was in a front collision, it’s now my daily driver. Did a RS look front bumper. Needed the Aluminum cradle, radiator support, radiator, Supercharger cooler, headlights, one fender, hood.’
Besides the RS look bumper I did a Seibon Carbon fiber hood (originally intended for my RS5, now it had to wait another year to get it’s Carbon hood), E-code headlights, new fender, upgraded PLM Supercharger intercooler, all new suspension in the front (didn’t want to take a chance from the accident that anything was bent or hairline fractures).
Don’t really have good pictures of it but the car was hit very hard
I bent the frame back on the car for the two arms but I’m going to have to some welding because the front reinforcement bar can’t screw in at all because that thing is destroyed on right arm need a new plate I guess to describe it due to it being ripped
The fender arm on the driver side is crumbled too
Do you have the part numbers to all screws that go on the subframe I feel I should change them and all since they gave me hell removing due to them being rusted
Hey guys what’s the nm for every bolt on the subframe since I’ll be reinstalling it and the engine mounts on it
How hard is it to change the engine mounts yourself ?
Has anyone got any info on how to change them, like a step by step guide or something ?
Thanks in advance guys 
Sorry I didn’t make a step by step but I’ve now had the engine cradle off twice. Once for the new engine and again in the past month to install the new AC compressor (Waterpump/Thermostat housing this time while I was in there). Need to remove belly pan, disconnect all 4 (2 per side) lower suspension arms at the cradle. Cradle stiffener (OEM Stamped Steel or Aluminum if you have the Alu Kreuz or 034). Steering rack needs removal (3 electrical plugs and 2 main bolts and the 2 tie rod ends), Sway bar removed, 8 Bolts on the Aluminum engine cradle. With the fender liners bent up or removed you can remove the single bolt going from the center of each engine mount to the engine Block. This whole time the engine/tranny will need to be supported with a jack of some kind, I did it on a lift so I used a 1.5mtr tall transmission jack. Car will need an alignment afterwards. Exhaust stays connected in this case. Some misc. stuff, ground wire by the Alternator, possibly lower radiator hose on the left. A connector (orange in color) to each engine mount. I’ll try to think if I missed anything. I’ll put my car on the lift tonight and take a look.
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That’s fab mate thank you so much for this you are a legend 
Sounds like there is a fair bit to this, I’ll have to study what you have told me if I understand it all I’ll go for it. As i would really like the 034 mounts on my car one thing i have not got yet lol !
Thanks again buddy
Two items to add to the list, both front tires removed as well as the front headlight level sensor (Left lower A-Arm on Left hand drive cars). And a Engine fender support bar helps too.
Ok mate got it ! Nice one I’ll start looking into this and give you a shout if I get stuck if that’s ok ?