… As opposed to getting a second set of wheels/rubbers. Toying with the idea. Only for financial reasons. I currently have stock 17s on winters (tossed out my old all seasons). I was planning on getting l/w 18’s and tires… that shit is $$$ though. Whereas a nice set of 17" max performance summers would not be so $$$. I just have trouble justifying it when that extra $1000 or so could go towards so many other performance oriented things.
Is it bad to swap tires on and off a rim multiple times?
I know many that have one set of wheels and two sets of tyres. Around here, it’s about $100 to get 4 tyres unmounted and mounted. So that’s $200/year. With two sets of dedicated winter and summer wheels, it’s $30 per change so $60 per year. So factor in the $140/year saved when considering a second set of wheels and tyres.
If 18’s are $$$, why not a set of LW 17’s for the summer and the stockers for winter?
Good point. If I was to get 17s and tires I’d rather pay the difference for 18s. Man I swear I notice the difference in 0-60 when I went from all seasons to heavier winters.
bangoman makes lots of sense here.
popping tires is a great example of ‘false economy’
You think you’re saving money, but it costs you in the long run. Buy a set of used OEM wheels with half to 75% life winters already on them…there are tons of sets out there, and they usually sell for around $500-600. When you consider that, it’s a no brainer because you can always get 2-3 seasons out of them. At the end, if you sell the car, you have a set of wheels to sell which are probably still worth $250 or so.
Your total cost was around $350…for 2-3 seasons. That’s going to be less than just the cost of swapping tires on/off at a shop for those 2-3 years…nevermind the cost of the tires that you’re swapping on top of that.
x3 on the dont swap tires… stock oem wheels in smaller sizes (perfect for snows) can be had very cheap if they are rashed up w/ bad tires… grab those and get the snows on there for good
Of course, with the winters already mounted, that $30/change could be $0/change if you DIY. Although I have a floor jack. Depends on your views on the widow maker.
Fuck the widow maker! Get a couple of race jacks. Makes it a breeze.
Ya, just to clarify I already have the winters on the stock rims lol. I have jackstands and a jack so swapping the wheels is no problem. Guess I’ll just keep an eye out for a good deal on LW rims and cross my fingers.
Just got an Arcan QuickLift 35XL from Northern Tool a few months ago. This thing is a tank compared to those sissy “race” jacks.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200345429_200345429
^well the nice thing about the sissy race jacks is you can carry them in the car to replace the widow maker. A heavy duty floor jack is a lot of weight to be lugging around everywhere.
same thing
mine has the bottom of the tire 3 inches off the ground in 3-4 pumps
edit: wait…not the same thing. Yours looks like shit. What’s with the shitty little two piece handle? That little shitbox would be a nightmare to use. Also looks to be solid steel…thus weighs about 130 lbs.
Fuck that noise.
Harbour Frieght aluminum race jack (race refers to it basically being light, and being low enough to get under lowered cars.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-lightweight-aluminum-racing-jack-with-rapid-pump-68052.html
Ive had two of those harbor freight jacks. Granted they are nice to carry around, they don’t last that long.
The arcan is heavy though. 100lbs or so. The two piece handle is nice because it alias you to jack the car up if you cant get the room on the side of the car. It’s long though-probably 5 feet.
Don’t attack my Arcan :-(. I did a lot of research and ended up with that. One of the biggest reasons though is that the HF jacks wouldn’t lift the Touareg high enough.
one thing to keep in mind with jacks is they do need regular manintenance… my craftsman floor jack broke a while back, never used it until recently when I flushed the hydraulic fluid and bled it and now it works awesome
The HF one is the only one I could find that was low enough profile to reach the front subframe support as I jacked the car up (well only one sub $150 or so). It’s been a good jack for me so far, and I got a 20% off coupon for the already marked down sale price, so it was a great price.
Also, that handle does break down into 2 sections which is a nice feature.
I think there are a good selection of quality jacks, it just depends if it’s more weight, height, or low profile you’re needing. For me it low profile throughout the jack.
Those are some fancy jacks compared to my cheapo one lol. I don’t use a jack enough to justify a $$$ one, and I figured any jack is better than the one that comes with the car.
Oh, what do you all think of the TSW Catalunya in 18"? Found a mint set locally for a very low price. Google search indicates they are around 25lbs, not much less than stock, but maybe I could make up for it with light tires?? Or should I keep looking…
Yea, you don’t tend to think about jacks, until you start crawling under your car much and you decided your life is worth more than the investment in a good jack (the HF ones being about $90). But in seriousness, I hope everyone uses jackstands well before they’re under a car.
As mentioned, my problem was I had to get a low profile just to be able to have it reach far enough and still be slim enough. I still drive onto two blocks of 2x10’s to get high enough to reach my jack points.
Meistah, wheels are seriously whatever float your boat, but if you want to shed some weight with them, then I’d wait around until you find the perfect combo.
Yea I wouldn’t trust a jack alone if I was actually going under the car, I always use jackstands because I’m paranoid. Seen some guys use just the widowmaker and it makes my skin crawl!
25.6lbs. I think they look interesting (like a bigger version of the a07-08 acura tl wheel). but since they are pretty much the same as stock weight guess not so great. >:(
I’ve found some good deals on 18" rims ranging from 22-24lbs (local store), then I figure I’ll pair whatever I choose with some continental DW’s, gives me 44-46lb per corner, and the package should be around $1000-1200. Stock I was at 50lb per corner, and 52 per corner with my winters. Seems like a good weight reduction, losing 20lbs of rotating mass?
5lbs on each wheel isn’t huge, but I think it will be enough to notice it.
I’d say you 'll DEFINITELY notice dropping 5lbs x 4.
That’s what you get from JHM LW Rotors and I noticed it while pulling out of the dealership (that’s who does my brakes…I don’t trust myself with brakes lol. Besides they only charge $160 for fronts. I’ll take that…fluid etc. eats into it and makes sense to let them do it)