The Audi S6 S8 5.2 V10 carbon clean thread.

A6 All/ S6 All
#49

Do the heater bypass from JHM where you don’t heat the throttle body. Do the intake spacers. those two help. Keeping the intake cooler really helps. Don’t sit and let the car idle on cold days or really don’t let the car idle any longer than you have to.

The catch can is a bad idea. They cause more issues than they fix. The cause the system to think there is a vac leak and its a mess. Your stock oil separator isn’t bad. Just clean it every oil change and make sure its up to date same with your PCV system.

#50

What a great DIY ;D. I have scheduled the carbon clean for next weeks, as I will have my intake manifold cleared from flaps anyway. I will follow the chemical route. I watched a video on Youtube last week in which CTC GDI Valve Cleaner is sprayed in the holes and left for 15/30 minutes. It literally ate the carbon. According to the manual of this product, it should be sprayed in the intake with a running engine. Do you see any negative effects if it is sprayed directly on the valves and let it soak for 15 or 30 minutes? Or is brake, carburator of oven cleaner better?

Drapu

#51

Welcome to the forum.

The CTC cleaner has fallen out of favor by most people due to the fact that that sure the cleaner would get the carbon off the valves but with the motor running where did the carbon go… into the cats and people had destroyed cats.

So the cleaner does work but I think you can just go the cheaper route and use oven cleaner.

#52

Thank you for your reply. I will thoroughly clean the area (soaking the fluid, scraping any residue carbon and taking it out by using compressed air or vacuum cleaner and clean it with brake cleaner) before I put the manifold on and start the car. It was my understanding that the CTC product should do the best solving job. Will the oven cleaner do a better job in solving the carbon?

#53

The oven cleaner is cheaper too and Easy Off brand has a non aerosol spray version too which helps

#54

Hello,

How do I get in contact with the gentleman who prints these out? Are their model prints out their I can use to print it myself?

#55

the guy’s name is fordprefect on audizine. just sign up and send him a message.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/781060-Intake-Valve-Carbon-Cleaning-Adapter

#56

My friend 3d printed one for me. I wont use walnut blast again tho. So messy

#57

Even with the port adapter used?

#58

Yes, I used a regular ABS ford one and the 3d printed one. I am not a walnut blast expert but it goes everywhere. Need a quality and high volume air compressor as well a good vacuum. The media blaster also must be of some quality, as the harbor Freight one I bought was a POS. Imo results may vary depending on the user and equipment

#59

With any port adapter or media blast method you can’t see exactly what your spraying. You can estimate but unless you keep pulling the adapter off you’re not going to have the targeted method you would want. Not only that but EVERYONE I know that used or still uses media blast still has to go back and use a brush or scraper to actually get to all the areas and all the carbon.

Use the chemical method. Soak the valves, wait for the carbon to breakdown and melt off. Vac out the cylinder and your done. Go back with a washer fluid, fill the cylinders, agitate the fluid a bit and then vac that out. Much more efficient then blasting. If you soak the valves your getting all the valve, valve angles and spots you can’t see. You can’t blast media on the back side of the valve stem. You can only blast the angles you can see and the port adapter isn’t going to let you get the angles you need to target every angle.

One of the other last reasons I don’t like blasting. Is, like it or not, you can blast media into spots you can’t vacuum out and media gets trapped in the base of the valve. When that media can’t be pulled out and gets left behind it only has one place left to go and that’s into the cylinders when you start the car next time or turn over the motor to get to the next set of valves to clean. Where will it go after that? Into your cats.

Doing several header jobs. We have seen more than one set of cats with quite a bit of media in them from blasting done during carbon cleaning.

If you just think media blasting is the greatest thing. Then you should strongly consider pulling out your spark plug,s pulling the fuel pump fuse and turning the motor over several times looking to expel anything you can though the plug port. I do this even though I ONLY use the chemical method just as a safeguard.

#60

I am a novice and simply asking questions, as this is something I’ve never done before. Thank you for the explanation and clarification count. I’m going to buy some oven cleaner and pick/brushes needed for the chemical process.

#61

Absolutely, PLEASE, ask as many questions as you can. We’re all here to help each other out Welcome to the forums.

#62

Anyone have an amazon alternative to the snap on tool? The link is not working for me. Not sure what that tool is called to even search. Thanks

#63

You can turn the alternator with a socket wrench. I can’t remember the size offhand, but you don’t need a special Audi tool. Though I do think the socket is large enough that it costs as much as that tool ;D ;D

#64

Quick search showed 12mm for the nut, can anyone confirm that? Thanks for the input fenix.

#65

If you’re trying to turn over the motor during the carbon clean to close the next set of valves. Use a 24mm that should be the size of the nut on the Alternator. Use the alternator that is the best method. Just make sure to spin the motor clock wise not counter.

#66

Thanks Count,

For planning sake, should the front end be removed to get to the alternator?

#67

front end, radiator, and core support. makes getting the IM off 100000x easier. Official repair manual says you don’t, but you need the hand of a small child to even get close to the IM electrical connectors IMO. Not sure how an adult can possibly do it. Seems like most people (including myself) went with the full front end removal. You’ll understand why once you get there :slight_smile:

#68

Exactly. If your going to do maintenance PULL THE FRONT CORE SUPPORT AND THE FRONT END… I see several people not doing this and frankly the 20 min or so that this saves isn’t a smart use of time. Your doing a major first time maintenance on your car since you got it or even if its a second or third carbon clean for you.

Removal of the front end gives you more room to work. A better ability to see all of the trouble issues and locations and gives you 10000x better ability to look around inspect and assess the entire front end and most of the motor. Honestly its foolish to not remove the front end when doing service work.