The Audi S6 S8 5.2 V10 carbon clean thread.

A6 All/ S6 All
#41

Cylinder 2 is TDC its like that on what seems to be all Audi NA motors.

I wouldn’t concern yourself with TDC. but here is what I do and I strongly suggest you do the same.

If you have your motor at TDC that’s fine. Spray starter fluid in all the ports that look closed. Spray enough in each valve port to get the starting fluid to puddle. Once you see the cylinders that are holding the fluid they are the cylinders you can start cleaning.

I would pull the spark plugs out for this so if a little starter fluid goes into the cylinders it will just evaporate .

But if the cylinder can hold fluid its going to be able to not let blast material go by. After you have cleaned all the cylinders that held fluid spin the motor another 1/4 turn until you see some of the other valves closed or closing. Generally you will be able to clean or fill 4 cylinders at a time.

#42

Excellent, this has been the procedure I have been following. I was able to get finished 2, 6, and 7 as they were closed. For some reason #1 and 5 were already clean, maybe “PEA” spray from before. Anyhow. That Harbor Freight 20 Gal blaster was not being friendly to me to say the least. Too much media always came out and I was not able to modulate. Best results were filling the ports with media and just spraying high pressure air in there with the ford tool, then vac out. May consider chemicals and rotary brushes…

#43

Honestly. Spray and brushes is by far the best practice. Why? because you can soak the carbon and then run the brush in the fluid. You can run the brush behind the valve stem where you can’t get with the media blast Even if you media blast you have to go back in with a pick anyways.

Run the metal brush forward for a few min then run the brush in the opposite direction to keep the brush working properly. IMHO what youll find is that the brushes with the fluid are a much better way of doing things. Either way you need to use the vaccum just remember to use the brush while the fluid is still in the cylinders. Using the oven cleaner you will see the carbon almost melts off if you leave it on long enough.

#44

^ Yup!!

The media blaster method failed for me. I am going to blame it on the poorly made Harbor F 20Gal blaster as it would not modulate media. It was either full throttle or 0 media. Media went everywhere even using the ford tool above. Then my 20 y/o compressor went out on me! I went and rented a compressor at HD for $70, got one valve cleaned and then quit lol.

I am now soaking the valves in CRC w/ PEA and JHM wire brush and pick kit. Working well and I am no longer wasting time trying to get the blaster working every 5 minutes. 5/10 valves cleaned so far.

#45

I had the exact opposite experience, go figure. the chemical cleaning method did a good enough job around the valves but not on the valves themselves. the media blaster worked like a charm.

YMMV I guess? :shrug:

#46

I’ve used both methods. Did the chemical clean on the S6 V10; and media clean on a A6 3.2 FSI V6.

Both worked great, chemical clean took me 45mins per cylinder to a level that I was satisfied. But only required that I buy the cleaner (I used non-aerosol spray version of Easy Off (lemon scent)), the brushes, some dental picks. I used starter fluid to make sure the valves were closed, and I washed out each cylinder with windshield washer fluid and suctioned that out with a shopvac. Lastly using compressed air to blow the cylinders out.

The walnut blasting took far less time, about 15mins per cylinder and did similar if not same results… Now my friend had the appropriate air compressor set up and a large blasting capacity, coupled with a strong shop vac and appropriate vacuum attachment (he runs an independent euro shop) so the costs to get all that stuff out weighs the time spend using the chemical strip.

with the chemical clean my experience was to leave the easy off on for at least 20mins. I did two passes of the cleaner.

#47

I was thankful that since the engine only had 65K of carbon it was not too bad to do it with chemical. Did 3 passes each valve per valve with similar above mentioned method. Now all 20 are done.

I was going to install a catch can in between the heads and the cyclone PVC valve but was informed it was a bad idea and could potentially lead to fuel / vacuum issues. So I am going to skip.

I did the SAI del, but what else can we do to help prevent build up? I was considering installing a y pipe where the fuel evap valve plugs into the top of the manifold, then create a small adapter for the straw of the CRC spray and cap it off when not using it.

Every oil change, do a CRC PEA treatment into the IM? This should help I assume?

#48

A few things. Chemical cleaner is going to be the best route… I know there is a lot of debate on this but if done properly you can actually soak the carbon in carbon cleaner. This will break it down and assure you that your getting it all.

One of the largest issues with blasting. it looks clean but turn over the motor or run the motor for a few min and then pull the intake off and you will see all the carbon you missed that you cant see. THAT is the biggest issue. It is super common when people do a carbon clean with media blast and then for whatever reason need to pull the intake off again.

Soak the valves for about 30min. If you do it right you really don’t even end up waiting. You make sure you know what cylinder is sealed and then spray that with the carbon cleaner and then start looking for the next closed valve. By the time you find the next cylinder and fill it with carbon spray you keep going. By the time you reach the end of all the closed cylinders and get your brush ready its been almost 30min. DO NOT REMOVE THE FLUID… CLEAN with the brushes with the fluid still in the valve shoot.

Once you perfect it. Its a breeze. Now to be fair I have cleaned TONS of carbon from TONS of cars so I kinda have it down to a science.

#49

Do the heater bypass from JHM where you don’t heat the throttle body. Do the intake spacers. those two help. Keeping the intake cooler really helps. Don’t sit and let the car idle on cold days or really don’t let the car idle any longer than you have to.

The catch can is a bad idea. They cause more issues than they fix. The cause the system to think there is a vac leak and its a mess. Your stock oil separator isn’t bad. Just clean it every oil change and make sure its up to date same with your PCV system.

#50

What a great DIY ;D. I have scheduled the carbon clean for next weeks, as I will have my intake manifold cleared from flaps anyway. I will follow the chemical route. I watched a video on Youtube last week in which CTC GDI Valve Cleaner is sprayed in the holes and left for 15/30 minutes. It literally ate the carbon. According to the manual of this product, it should be sprayed in the intake with a running engine. Do you see any negative effects if it is sprayed directly on the valves and let it soak for 15 or 30 minutes? Or is brake, carburator of oven cleaner better?

Drapu

#51

Welcome to the forum.

The CTC cleaner has fallen out of favor by most people due to the fact that that sure the cleaner would get the carbon off the valves but with the motor running where did the carbon go… into the cats and people had destroyed cats.

So the cleaner does work but I think you can just go the cheaper route and use oven cleaner.

#52

Thank you for your reply. I will thoroughly clean the area (soaking the fluid, scraping any residue carbon and taking it out by using compressed air or vacuum cleaner and clean it with brake cleaner) before I put the manifold on and start the car. It was my understanding that the CTC product should do the best solving job. Will the oven cleaner do a better job in solving the carbon?

#53

The oven cleaner is cheaper too and Easy Off brand has a non aerosol spray version too which helps

#54

Hello,

How do I get in contact with the gentleman who prints these out? Are their model prints out their I can use to print it myself?

#55

the guy’s name is fordprefect on audizine. just sign up and send him a message.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/781060-Intake-Valve-Carbon-Cleaning-Adapter

#56

My friend 3d printed one for me. I wont use walnut blast again tho. So messy

#57

Even with the port adapter used?

#58

Yes, I used a regular ABS ford one and the 3d printed one. I am not a walnut blast expert but it goes everywhere. Need a quality and high volume air compressor as well a good vacuum. The media blaster also must be of some quality, as the harbor Freight one I bought was a POS. Imo results may vary depending on the user and equipment

#59

With any port adapter or media blast method you can’t see exactly what your spraying. You can estimate but unless you keep pulling the adapter off you’re not going to have the targeted method you would want. Not only that but EVERYONE I know that used or still uses media blast still has to go back and use a brush or scraper to actually get to all the areas and all the carbon.

Use the chemical method. Soak the valves, wait for the carbon to breakdown and melt off. Vac out the cylinder and your done. Go back with a washer fluid, fill the cylinders, agitate the fluid a bit and then vac that out. Much more efficient then blasting. If you soak the valves your getting all the valve, valve angles and spots you can’t see. You can’t blast media on the back side of the valve stem. You can only blast the angles you can see and the port adapter isn’t going to let you get the angles you need to target every angle.

One of the other last reasons I don’t like blasting. Is, like it or not, you can blast media into spots you can’t vacuum out and media gets trapped in the base of the valve. When that media can’t be pulled out and gets left behind it only has one place left to go and that’s into the cylinders when you start the car next time or turn over the motor to get to the next set of valves to clean. Where will it go after that? Into your cats.

Doing several header jobs. We have seen more than one set of cats with quite a bit of media in them from blasting done during carbon cleaning.

If you just think media blasting is the greatest thing. Then you should strongly consider pulling out your spark plug,s pulling the fuel pump fuse and turning the motor over several times looking to expel anything you can though the plug port. I do this even though I ONLY use the chemical method just as a safeguard.

#60

I am a novice and simply asking questions, as this is something I’ve never done before. Thank you for the explanation and clarification count. I’m going to buy some oven cleaner and pick/brushes needed for the chemical process.