The Audi S6 S8 5.2 V10 carbon clean thread.

Lastly, I thought I would put up some carbon cleaning tips that work for me. If anyone has any questions let me know.

After you get the intake off and inspect the state of the carbon, you need to start looking into what cylinders you’re going to start working on first. One good way to make sure the valves are shut all the way and not just part of the way is to spray some starter fluid into each cylinder that appears fully closed.

http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/688706273.jpg

After all, if you’re going the chemical route you’re going to be spraying a much harsher chemical into the ports. If you first start with starter fluid to test each cylinder, the fallout of getting starter fluid into an open cylinder isn’t a big deal. The starter fluid will just evaporate shortly after if left.

What I do is spray a little starter fluid into the cylinders I want to start with and see if it pools. If it pools and doesn’t leak into the cylinder I know when I spray the chemical cleaner into the port and start working the area with wire brushes that nothing is going to fall into the cylinder.

One issue some guys have after a carbon clean is 02s failing. That can in part be from, getting chemical leakage into the cylinder and also getting carbon sludge leaking into the cylinder and then when the car starts up that leakage goes into the cats and past the 02s.

After I have let the chemical sit in the ports for a while and I have gotten all the carbon off with a wire brush and a drill I vacuum out the leftover gunk.

http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/525036532.jpg

Each time you clean make sure you’re cleaning with the brush and that you’re cleaning in standing fluid. It helps.

After you’re done and you think the cylinders are clean. Hit the cylinders with some air.

http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/100819153.jpg

It looks clean. But no, there is one more thing you should do. I took this picture just before I did my final step.

http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/242934612.jpg

After each cylinder is clean and I use air to blow out the cylinder. I go back and fill each cylinder I just cleaned with washer fluid and come back with a bright light. Almost always I find some little-hidden collection. The second pass is so important due to the fact that we can’t pull our cats out as easy as the other platforms. So if you get carbon or debris in your cats your just causing possible long term issues.

As the last tip. One question I hear a lot is. How do you turn the motor over to close the valves on the cylinders that were open?

Simple. Get a 1/2 inch wrench and socket that fits over the alternator nut. You can easily spin over the motor by simply turning the alternator nut clockwise. Just remember that you should have all your ports covered before you spin over the motor. If you can’t get the motor to spin over due to there being too much resistance. Just pull out the spark plugs and the motor will spin over by hand at that poitn.

Very good read. Thanks for the information.

Thought I’d bump this thread with a question about carbon cleaning in general - my car has been sitting a while (~8 months), which means all the oil has had plenty of time to drip back down into the pan.

I was thinking of getting an oil mister, filling it with engine oil, and spraying a light coat on the inside of the cylinders through the fuel injector ports to provide some lubrication to the piston rings for when I turn over the engine to close each cylinder’s intake valves. Does this seem pretty reasonable, or am I being overly worried for a car sitting so long?

It won’t hurt anything but I don’t think this is necessary.

Since you have so many parts that require good lubrication I wouldn’t do this… this way. Spraying oil into the cyllinders will just get oil on top of the piston for the most part. You have oil squerters that spray oil on the bottom side of the piston. When you are ready to start the car or if you want to do maintenance oiling. Pull both of the ECUs so the car won’t fire and run the motor over by the starter for about 8 seconds. That should prime the oil system and spray oil under the pistions and get some lube on the walls.

So though I was gifted a new engine, the IM was NOT replaced :slight_smile: Intake flaps are fine and show functionality via the two sensors in vcds, however the “tumbler” flap is broken.

So… I am going to do the full JHM upgrade “less exhaust for now” to include carbon clean, new IM, crank pulley, IM spacers, SAI del, and tune.

Question: I heard it is good practice to replace the injectors “$1,500”!! At this time I prefer not to due to the cost. My question is, has anyone sent these injectors for cleaning? If so, who would be considered a good shop to clean / test them and is there a specific procedure that is deemed best for the injector service? Thanks in advance to all!

Edit: Should have posted here: http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=4872.0

So i dunno if anyone knows about this but there is thisnguy on az FordPrefect and he’s a great seller he has printed these adapters ro the intake ports so that you can attach your media blaster and vacuum hose at the same time for a no mess easy solution. I have it but havent done it personally yet my tech is using it so im going ti see what he thinks.

From all the reviews ive heard having this adapter makes blasting far better thsn scrubbing… here is a picture of the adapter he sells for the 2.0t for cheap. They are 3d Printed and if someone gave him the dimensions on the V10 port im sure he could make them.

The plastic is very high quality and cuts the time down immensely, or so im told.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190106/a848431dc92a6fe37238853ca44c1800.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190106/49fbbf36a03243f37ff5d298b2978bf5.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190106/56744cf82223f7e3bf0f9d5e96387f3d.jpg

Update- i just got a msg back from Ford Prefect that thsae adapters have already been used on the V10 and they fit. I think he charges like 30 or 40 bucks shipped i cant remember what i paid.

Walnut shells? Using a SpeediBlast or something similar?

Something like this.

http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=3781.msg118357#msg118357

Thanks, big help!

Just bought the fitting from Ford Precept…will report back at the end of the month.

I can confirm it works very well. It had a nice tight fit on my intake. Apparently it’s a bit looser on the RS4s, though still functional. Well worth the cost to make the cleaning significantly less messy.

Can you tell me what blasting set up you used? I was hoping for a simple non-pressurized system that siphons from a bucket. I already have a nice media blasting cabinet, so investing in something here doesn’t make sense.

Are there different grades of walnut shells, and if so, which should I use?

I just went with a cheap siphon feed gun and stuffed the hose right into the 50 lb. bag of shells when I did mine.

The grit range was 18 to 40

i used this https://www.harborfreight.com/portable-abrasive-blaster-kit-37025.html

you’ll need to make a DIY attachment to fit through the holes in ford prefect’s tool (or just drill out the holes to a slightly larger diameter).

that, a 25gal compressor, and harbor freight’s “fine” walnut shell blast media worked like a champ. had the air pressurized to 90psi.

Nice.

So you just use that short tip ceramic nozzle, and not a long nozzle extension like I’ve seen?

Also, I got the adapter today. Couple questions:

First, the port dimensions seem small–roughly 50mm x 25 mm at the largest dimensions–is this right?

Second, the vacuum port is tiny. How’d you get this to work with a shop vac, which has a much larger diameter hose?

you can get different attachments, or use good ol’ duct tape

May someone quickly chime in in on the firing order? I know it to be as follows:

1 - 6 - 5 - 10 - 2 - 7 - 3 - 8 - 4 - 9 - clockwise rotation when looking at the engine

I put the crank pulley at TDC I believe this is completely vertical facing up, and it “appears” that CYL 2 valves are closed, next to fully closed is cyl 7

So should I plan to walnut blast in this order, starting at TDC turning the crank ~10th / 36 Deg CW as I go:

2 - 7 - 3 - 8 - 4 - 9 - 1 - 6 - 5 - 10

Someone tell me if I am wrong or share the order in which you did the cleaning please

the order I did was “is this valve closed? ok” ;D
you can sometimes do multiple intake ports at the same time (without turning the engine I mean) depending on which valve sets are opened/closed. you can do them all in order or not. doesnt really matter. with a blaster it will take almost no time at all.

^^great question, I’ve been wondering the same.