I was in California last week. I saw regular range from 3.81usd/gal to 4.60 within 1 hour. Crazy variance. I don’t get why Chevron was always in the 4.40 range though. The indys tended to be cheaper. I didn’t care what gas it was, I was topping up a rental spambox.
The 3.81 was in Tracy, CA, not too far from JHM 
Sounds like Australia gets Vancouver pricing
Our 98 (which is your 93.94) is around $1.67 per Litre and fluctuates 5-10c per litre during the week. Our 91 with 10% Ethanol is around $1.44 - $1.55 per litre
Yup that’s about right.
Shops around here are charging 18 bucks a gallon for MS109 and thats if you order 50 gallon drum. If you want one gallon it’s 25 bucks.
They are gouging around these parts because they can (especially because there is no road tax or anything on these fuels)
I import commercially and debated having a drum shipped to my warehouse down south but never wanted to dedicate the time to it. If we could get it for 3-5 bucks a gallon… ALLDAYEVERYDAY
I think the only off the shelf boosters that do anything are the Lucas octane boost, and the NOS octane booster. Of course Torco works too.
Isn’t it the Porsche crowd that is nuts for the home brew xylene thing?
Here is the really really long answer. The specific answer to your question, is in the second post.
Thanks. I have done quite a bit of research and it seems Torco would be the most proven way to go, but I would assume the Race Gas stuff is very similar. I may get the Torco and do some logging as a shop by my house carries it. I’m having quite a bit of timing pulled now, so I am curious if it would help. However, I am not going to run it on a regular basis; I’ll just hold out for race gas at any track events I do.
Noob question : How big is the difference in power on 102 map vs a daily pump map ? kw and Torq
Nevermind everything that I said below because you do have a B8 S4.
There will almost never be a correct answer for that question, plus it’s pretty vague. It would all be dependant on the engine/type of power adder/the tune itself.
Just for an idea you could compare the B8 S4s because they have pretty good data between pump and race gas, but obviously it will only help if you have a supercharged V6 S4.
Like prime and Saki mention above the B8s see about 3 tenths and 3 mph gain at the dragstrip which should be approx 30whp.
I think you need to understand why cars make more power on higher octane more than you need to know exact numerical gains.
What tune are you asking about specifically?
Let’s say the APR files.
When the hardware and track prep stays the same, and you just flip between maps, what time differences should one be looking at ?
This is if you have Pulley, APR CPS, Milltek Resonated, APR intake, as mods. Running stock 18" + stock rotors etc.
Thx for your response.
I went ahead and ordered some of the Torco Accelerator. I am not sure if I am going to use it on the B5 or B8, but I am going to test and log with it on one of the cars and compare it to normal 93. I’ll report back with results in the next few weeks.
I won’t have it in time for my trip to the drag strip this week, but maybe I’ll test it when I go next month. I am going to run some 100 octane this week at the track, so that will give me a good baseline to compare the Torco to if I decide to use it to get to 100-101 octane (which I may do at some point).
The Torco Accelerator showed up yesterday earlier than expected. I did some logging last night with mixed results. When added to 93, and running my 93 map, it was strong. The car was pulling the least amount of timing I have seen, and no misfires (which is a first). The car seemed to run strong with it.
When I added enough to mix over 100 octane, I switched to my 100 map. The car still did not show any misfires which is good. The first run was good. Overall timing was the highest I have seen (due to the 100 map) at over 20 degrees, and it still only pulled 3-4 degrees which is good for what I have seen on my car. However, on my second run everything looked good but the amount of knock and time pull. One cylinder was pulling 8 degrees, and another over 10 degrees. The other four when still in the 2-4 range.
I’m not completely sure what to make of it… I’ll keep testing. I have about 90 miles left of what should be a 101ish mix, so I’ll try that at first at the strip (the strip is 60+ miles from my house) for 1-2 passes, and then fill up with real deal 101 race gas to compare the two (both times and logging- hopefully).
I would test by emptying out the tank or even running out the fuel. With all the fuel left in the basket, pump and lines it can take a very long time for the better mix of fuel to even make the line.
In my opinion. Your first run when you switched over was good due to the car running through the adaption cycle. After you made the second and third pulls the car had made adjustments and already started correcting for elevated readings
race gas and race file vs pump gas and pump file?
that usually amounts to around 3 tenths and 3 MPH on the 3.0Thupercharged cars, according to our list. I’ve also seen guys do that at the track so that is pretty solid. Mayb 3.5 and maybe 2.5, but basically around 3 and 3.
Thx Saki. Current best is 12.2, I want to dip into the 11’s. Got about 3 weeks before next event.
assuming the track numbers translate (you’re in SA, so I’m not sure what the standards are like at the tracks (i.e. do they have the exact same rollout at staging? Do they have the same trap speed calculation). Stage 2, good intake, good fuel and the pump file should get you into the low 12s (12.2-12.5) and race gas should get you into the very low 12s or high 11s (11.9-12.2)
this assumes good DA etc which can be hard to find in SA with the tracks often being at substantial elevation, and the weather being hot as a motherucker 8 months of the year
Luckilly I’m at the coast, Cape Town. Track prep is fairly shity compared to the one’s up in Johannesburg.
It’s winter time so temps are good.
The downfall with our track is that the 1st 350 meters you go uphill, then levels out and the last bit feels like downhill.
Here’s a vid of track from the side, doing a friendly at Subaru track day. I had Miltek resonated + APR intake only. Scooby was modified.
http://youtu.be/991_1DNy3Yw
For further mods i’m thinking of removing the APR intake cover + Airbox and using the snorkel for the next event. Going to build a guard to shield off the engine temps. Hope it helps with breathing.
After 2nd gear, do you guys run it to red line and let the box shift, or is it better to short shift at slighlty lower rpms ?
What we wouldn’t do for that 0,1 of second ;D
I think on the 3.0T the 1320 has shown to be pretty efficient and does well right to redline, so most guys let it run out and shift itself. Lots of them actually run it in Drive if I’m not mistaken, rather than Sport.
Saki,
Sport mode is “drive” per say. The only way to select manual is throwing the shifter over.
Sport/Dynamic Mode - Non manual shifting selected
Traction fully disabled - hold traction button for 5+ seconds
Launch control or not, your choice.
If not using launch control, depress brake just enough to hold car, when about to go, simultaneously release brake while mashing gas. I.e when left foot is coming up from brake your right foot should be mashing gas at the same time.
yeah, I get that (I own a B8 A4 Avant with the same transmission control options), but I was just pointing out that some people use D rather than S (almost nobody uses the manual mode)
Hmmm, never heard of anyone running in “D/Auto” mode at track before. I imagine it would “auto” detect full throttle and make the shifts as crisp as S mode.