I didn’t say Mistro’s car was slow. I was just pointing out some facts, as he also pointed out, the color, brand, model and time the 20sec car ran.
I have a couple more facts; Mistro, ran faster than euroswager, with a higher trap. euroswager ran faster than my 15 psi, 14 sec car that didn’t have a working tach, even though my mph was 110 and his slower.
I also want to congratulate everyone who took the time out and go to the track that day for trying to improve the audi platform. I am also happy for those who broke records, ran good times, best’d their times and I feel that euroswager will never best his time unless he becomes a better driver.
So I’m texting back and forth with CountVohn and he’s asked me to check whether I have a boost leak. Hmmm…that would be “promising” I guess (looking at the glass half full kinda deal). If I indeed have a boost leak, then that would mean I could be considerably faster. I have a boost gauge (didn’t check it at the track. Need to get into that habit of checking it) but I can’t check it at the moment as I seem to need a new MAF as well.
If I do have a boost leak, maybe I should consider going again next weekend if the track’s still open
Thanks for the good times and all the positive posts!
Mistro - great time 12.47@113 is moving man! how many run’s have you done with the gutted cats?
Axel - congrats on the 12.63 ET is that a personal best? Sucks about the car though… I hope you get it sorted out!
Saki - I really thought you ran 12.63 that one pass… They really need to fix that timing board…
Boravr6 - Can’t wait to see the video you got and Thanks a bunch for braving the cold to collect it!
bangoman - I know I saw you make a few passes so I’m not sure what you’re talking about with tech inspection? Did you ask if you could fill the car to make a few passes and they said no?
I wouldn’t put too many eggs in too many baskets re the boost leak. Bottom line is that you never really nailed any of your launches or runs yesterday, so you left a good bit on the table…and STILL went two tenths faster and more importantly 4 MPH faster than my car’s best on the day after I had the luxury of 9 passes. I am a good benchmark as my car is a bone stock, healthy 420 hp RS4 (imaybe I’m more like 400 thanks to carbon?). Your MPH tells me you should have been running 12.40 or thereabouts at 114ish. That’s also telling me you’re putting about 40 hp on my RS4, pretty comfortably.
Whatever it is, they will figure it out I am sure.
p.s. you trapped 114 on one run. Not sure if you got that printout from them?
OH yeah good point bear…special thanks to BORAVR6. He is selling his car, so he just chilled out (literally…it was 40 fahrenheit) most of the day and was nice enough to make a bunch of videos of our various cars.
Bango, I’m sorry I shouldn’t have chickened out…next time we’ll have you guys pile in on the first run before they question anything. I’ll bring a bucket with ice and some prosecco, lol, it’s more popular with the ladies.
Did I read Mistro is saving up for a wedding? Look know further than jspazz for a 12-sec wedding car. Or maybe next time run the 1320 with the bride and groom in the back, ribbons and all.
Yea, when you said you had a bad MAF, my first thought was that you might have a leak in your system somewhere letting in (or letting out) “un-metered air”. Anytime I’ve blown a seal and not realized it right away, I’ve gotten a: “Implausible MAF” code through VCDS. You’ll also get the Traction control light stuck on until the problem is fixed or you reset the codes.
So if you do have a boost leak or bad maf you should be able to tell through daily driving throttle response, VCDS code (will appear before traction light), or if severe enough, a traction control light stuck on the dash.
Thus far:
-I’ve had the intake pipe going to the S/C (no boost area) slip off
-I’ve had the exit pipe from the S/C blow off (just recently - replaced with a T-Bolt Clamp)
-I’ve had the both clamps where the metal spacer pipe is (for use in Stg2 w/ Meth nozzle) become loose
-And due to the 034 intake piece (going to the Throttle Body), I’ve had it blow off a dozen+ times. I’ve looked for my OEM intake piece, but can’t track it down. IMO the 034 piece is junk for the boosted application as it doesn’t hold enough rigidity to not slip off the throttle body, esp in high RPM where Count starts to close the throttle body down (which much really increase the boost pressure in the piping from the S/C to the throttle body).
I’ve replaced all the hose clamps with t-bolt clamps and that’s made a big difference. The only one you can’t replace is the intake side of the s/c because there isn’t enough of a lip for it to grab onto. But that’s not a big deal as it’s not under any boost pressure, I think it was just a fitment issue from a re-install.
I think a lot of the pressure leaks were just caused from multiple removal re-installs and then using the same hose clamps. The hose clamps loose some strength over time and will jump teeth as you try to tighten them down. The t-bolt clamps hold a lot better as their made for f.i. application well above the 6psi we are pushing.
Also Beem, I’ve got a digital boost gauge, but no logging ability (but it does have short-term peak boost memory). However usually when I have a small boost leak, it’s tough to tell through the gauge. You’ve got to be on the gas pretty good and 4k+ really to see a reading of 3psi+ through the gauge when everything is running fine. So when just cruising around you really are cruisin in vacuum with neg. readings most the time and just barely hitting positive numbers at all. I can usually just tell by the sound though as it doesn’t take much more than a small leak for the engine to start to be unhappy and throttle response really becomes apparent especially with normal small blips for downshifting.
his was really wonky…didn’t seem like a ‘oh this isn’t quite right, I must have a boost leak’. The reaction from Axel was ‘MOTHERFUCKER I THINK I KILLED THE CAR!’
Burst of black smoke out the back in the middle of a run, car wouldn’t go past 2000 RPM…ran rougher than hell…and then it wouldn’t stay running when he was parked unless he gave it constant throttle.
Then George (licensed professional tech) told us all to shut the fuck up, ripped out the snorkel, disconnected the MAF sensor plug, and told Axel to start it. Worked like a charm.
Just in limp mode of course, but all the crazy symptoms were gone.
I dunno, I blew the intake pipe to the throttle body on a 1st to 2nd shift while making a pass once at the track and then all heck broke loose. I had about 2 seconds in 2nd gear then nothing, then dead. I couldn’t even start to hold idle to get off the track. They had to tow me off the track! Trust me. . . I was in a state of panic at that point.
That was the first time I really realized how protective & carefully thought out Count’s tune is. Even most F.I. factory cars aren’t that protective of the motor and everything else. Albiet, it could be pretty scary given other circumstances.
I thought that maybe the motor was flooded after several attempts to start, so tried to start with throttle all the way down (I remembered count vaughn said this would start the car with no injectors at first), and each time I tried to start the car it’d be the same varied result, jump up to 800-1400 rpm’s (barely), then just dead off no matter what I did with the throttle or anything else.
I called Count and luckily he was able to answer. After about 5 min of Q&A trying to diagnose what happened, he told me to go look at the throttle body, and sure enough, intake pipe was blown off.
I reattached it, then started it up fine. I then went to burn off the spark plugs per Count’s recommendation by doing a couple long hard 3rd gear pulls once the motor was good & hot. I’m pretty sure that was the first pass I’d made with the 034 intake pipe actually and hadn’t got a T-Bolt clamp for it yet. With the T-Bolt clamp it was a lot better, but still not great.
I was right there, and was shocked that worked, I’ve never seen a MAF fail that badly outright. I’ve seen them just slowly, slowly go out and start running the car leaner and leaner. Really, in this case, rather than the MAF, I wouldn’t be surprised if a hose was blown or split somewhere. Pulling the MAF makes the car go back to a speed-density system, so it reads mani pressure and doesn’t car about leaks prior to the mani.
JUST got back from the mechanic. 30 second fix. As expected by many here (and CountVohn over text), it was indeed the intake pipe going to the TB. It was pretty much off. I guess disconnecting the MAF allowed the car to run again.
Phew. Now I know lol. Had I known at the track, I could have put it back on myself (not licensed tech at all) in under a minute
Or well, lesson learned. Stupid little niggles like these can get annoying but one thing’s for sure, I’m learning a lot haha.
