Tune in later tonight, as I post why your chain tensioners fail

B6/7 S4/RS4
#7

Always good stuff guys. Ill have to get more into this later. Here are a few pictures to show you what were working with.

Here is the tensioner 1 of 4. Still in its spot on the motor

http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/379849605.jpg

I know you can’t see all of them but you can see the chain layout and you can still see at least 1 tensioner

http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/853321513.jpg

Here is a little peak on what it looks like when you break it apart

This starts the “chain” of why the tensioner fails. More to come.

http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/58878917.jpg

a little more apart.

http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/730278402.jpg

now this is what the receiver site looks like

http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/868203854.jpg

#8

hmm that garage looks familiar, any chance that engine block has a hole in the passenger side? :smiley:

#9

your not talking about this are you?

http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/604835054.jpg

#10

i have a vast recollection of this engine :wink:

#11

Back to the tensioners.

what were looking at here is the back of the tensioners. You can see there is a oil port on them. Oil comes up from the pan to pressurize these. You can see how small the ports are on these.

http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/483358255.jpg

The oil goes into the block, then into the port on the tensioner and threw this orifice

http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/752554489.jpg

We saw this before in the picture above.

http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/868203854.jpg

#12

fingerbanging a 4.2.

NSFW!

#13

You might be able to fist it.

http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/882880628.jpg

#14

Good stuff, wonder if this is going on with my car. lol

#15

Lets do a compression test on it. That should get more information. I still think your car is fine-ish lol.

#16

I do need a compression test, just have to find the time and do it.

#17

It only took me about 45min to an hour. Really wasn’t bad. I did min by just jumping the starter rather then pulling the fuses and cranking through the ignition. I only did a dry test though, but going back I’d really like to do a leakdown test as well. It’d defenitely be worth the time while you’re in there.

#18

Someone needs to make a compression test DIY/FAQ. Such an important part in determining the health of these motors

#19

Great point and great idea. I think the biggest issue for real non mechanic guys will be getting the tools to do it. Then just making sure its done right, as just like any test sometimes people can make sure to do a test and fool themselves into the data they want to see.

#20

Yea, I found a bit of conflicting info out there when I did my compression test, it would be nice to have one clear diy on it though. Tool wise it didn’t seem that bad really (besides needing a compression tester). For me, all I did was disconnect the battery, pull the coil packs and then all the spark plugs (obviously keeping them numbered and in order for reference), then made sure throttle plate was partially open, and I just “jump started” the started motor by making a little set of wires (plug is behind the airfilter next to the O2 sensor plug, for the 4.2 S4 at least) and let it cycle through a couple of times once the compression tester was screwed into the right cylinder. It prevented needing to pull fuses or have someone crank the car at the same time.

Hopefully this was all okay, Halik kinda helped me through it as he had just posted on AZ that he had done a compression test on his new motor. I should have also done a wet/leakdown test, but I only did a dry test at the time.

#21

Perhaps I should start a new thread, but here goes anyway. Not being a mechanic, it’s unlikely I’ll need to know why they fail, the question is what to do after it has?

3 weeks ago I had my 05.5 S4 Avant in to have the Zenon lights replaced for the dreaded flickering and dipped issue. During that servicing I had my car thoroughly inspected and diags run. Everything was clean. 2 weeks later my car is parked at the garage with 2 cylinders with 0 compression with a suspected tensioner failure. My Audi dealer wants a $5K retainer just to look at how bad it is?

My car has seen a very easy life since I have owned it and I have a hard time understanding how a perfomance motor suffers such catastrophic failure and I’m suprised people are not more frustrated with it?

#22

Where are you located? I’d go private/independant before going to the dealer for a job like that.

Maybe the guys here can help you out once they know where you are. WORST case scenario, you buy a used motor and replace your existing one…then look at whether or not the original one can be repaired etc and sold to offset your costs. The dealer on the other hand will tell you about $15,000 for a new motor etc. That’s just ludicrous when you can find a used one for a couple grand to 3-4.

#23

I did a semi DIY compression test in my “RS4 smoke issues” thread. I can do a cleaner version with the pics I have and take people through the step by step process. Maddog covered the job 90% already, its really not bad at all. THe compression tester can be had for $100 or less…or more depending on brand etc. Took me about an hour, taking my time.

#24

I am in Ottawa, Ontario.

I went the dealer route only because my 2 independents are reluctant to rebuild, they suggested the used motor route but I haven’t been able to find one with any kind of warranty. The quotes have been in the $4500-7200 range on a used motor with at most a 6 month warranty.

I am open to any and all suggestions. I have even thought of looking for northern New York shop to do the work and getting the motor shipped there. Ironically, it’s actually an imported US vehicle.

#25

Look to contact JHM they are working on stronger guids. The money you will spend on shipping your car to JHM will be saved in the experence you get and the actual fact that they do this more then any shop on the east coast.

Ive learned that just because someone says they can do something dosn’t mean they actually can. When it comes to that kind of money and that kind of work. It would be a better investment in getting a well verced shop to do it. Not only that but you can have other performance stuff added at the same time

#26

Thanks for the input.

I’m hoping there are also other options beside shipping my car between and across two countries. I can’t believe that a defective part would leave me with such a difficult and expensive problem to fix.

I’m thinking I should start a new thread.