Upper control arm, poly bushing replacement

A5/S5/RS5
#1

My latest video, this time I replace the OEM style bonded rubber bushings with “lifetime” polyurethane bushings from Proflex. So far so good! More deets later.

Tool wise, just make sure you have a few 16mm wrenches. Audi always likes to use “unusual” sizes.

The basic set of tools is as follows:
-(2) 16mm wrenches, ratcheting version very helpful
-basic metric socket set but you really don’t use it
-impact driver, mine’s a smaller size, 1/4" shank so you don’t overpower everything
-low profile jack
-jack stands
-work lights
-Bushing/bearing press kit https://www.amazon.com/WINTOOLS-Universal-Bearing-Removal-Insertion/dp/B07BH22YCR/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=bushing+removal+kit&qid=1589065300&sr=8-9
-penetrating fluid
-Krytox lubricant https://www.amazon.com/Chemours-Krytox-GPL105-Needle-Bottle/dp/B00WE0DEKW/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=krytox+gpl+105&qid=1589065239&sr=8-1

Parts I used…
OEM nut and bolt kit from ECS Tuning https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/front-upper-control-arm-hardware-kit/n10425302kt/
Powerflex “black” bushings, part number PFF3-203BLK https://www.powerflexusa.com/shop/product/pff3-203-audi-a4-s4-a5-a6-rs4-sq5-vw-passat-b5-front-upper-arm-to-chassis-bushing-2777

These are the individual part numbers for the Audi stretch bolts if you want to try and source them less expensively. Probably just easier to purchase the ECS kit.
(4) Upper control arm inner bolts, # N10425302
(4) Upper control arm inner nuts, # N10286110
(2) Steering upright pinch bolts, # WHT007963
(2) Steering upright pinch bolt nuts, # N10272302

#2

Another great video, even if someone doesn’t diy after this they feel less grumpy paying someone else to do it when they see what’s all involved. :+1:t4:

Thanks @Ape_Factory !

#3

You have done it again, a great detailed video to help so many of us and show us how it should be done !! Nice one brother you da man !!:+1::grin:

#4

It isn’t super hard but again it’ll depend on what you have for springs and whether or not they interfere with the rear control arm bolts.

If you’re just throwing rebuilt arms in, I’d totally do that at home. Pressing in the standard bearings is a bit easier too.

But what really shocked me was that both rear control arms had bad outer bearings, or bearings which were “worn” with no resistance and a bit of play. Wonder if this happens to the OEM arms as well. Could be a result of lowering although I’m not lowered much. I’ll try to get a full tool list up here today, working the day job at the moment (no really!).

#5

I watched the guy adjusting my camber, he only adjusted the rear arm to pull the camber in, I’m curious if this put the the rear arm in a constant pre-load condition.
I assume adjusting the front arm will also adjust the caster due to the angle of the arm but I didn’t really give it much thought…until now!

#6

Could be. I do notice not only do the rear arm outboard bearings go bad but the inner bushings too.

Due for an alignment check myself (once a year), I’ll watch them do it and inquire.

#7

https://www.zoro.com/krytox-oil-gpl-105-needle-nose-bottle-1-oz-gpl-105/i/G0705735/

#8

That stuff is liquid gold IMO. I use it on everything, LOL. Let’s just say NONE of the doors in my house squeak any longer.

#9

Has there been any news on this, I am due to replace my original ones soon and wondering what is the best course of action for them. Adjustable or not, poly or not, what matters and what doesn’t for lowering? Currently stock ride height but thinking about going to the KW H.A.S. system and not finding much info on what works and what doesn’t since it seems to be a wear item.

#10

Basically if you’re going to go an inch or lower up front, you’ll need adjustable arms. The inner bushing doesn’t matter in regards to getting camber and most importantly, toe, back into specification. I can get you set up with adjustable arms with firmer and more durable inner bushings. Just shoot me an email, sales@redmistracing.com. I am still running the poly upper bushings but I do have adjustable upper arms and I’m on coil-overs.

#11

But if you do any DE (track) events for your car you may want to keep a little extra Positve Camber up front and the expense of a little more tire wear. If it’s a daily driver maybe not but if it is a part-time driver…I’m running extra positive camber as I have now had my car at a couple of DE events. Not a good car for Slalom, but for the track and the right setup it can be fun. A set of Macan front brake ducts are cheap and work well too to give the fronts a little extra brake cooling.
Ape, didn’t know you were selling bushings now too. I’ve got some Powerflex in both the RS5 & S5. I’ll have to see what you’ve got as I’ve been piece mealing it as I’ve installed new components. I know you always have great prices. I probably need to purchas another Antigravity batter from you for my RS6 this time. The ones in my S5 and RS5 are great.

#12

So on the Powerflex, I’d say they’re fine for the inner bushing on the upper control arm but NOT for any of the others. I have another client in Canada who installed the poly bushings on his lower control arms and the inner large bushing ovalized. He does track his car.

I am getting ready to do my entire front suspension but temps just hit 100 degrees here for the foreseeable future so maybe not so much. I may have to air condition my garage, LOL.

On camber, the RS5 can run quite a bit of camber and still have good, even tire wear. I ran upwards of 1.8 degrees up front but TOE is what’s critical and if you lower the vehicle more than say .9" up front, toe can’t be brought back into spec. Most springs drop an inch to 1.25" but will sag more over time. The adjustable upper arms can bring that all back into specification.

I have Stern front adjustable arms but they’re no longer being made sadly. That leaves SPC and 034, the latter of which I carry. SPC hasn’t always been the best, made overseas, usually cast, low quality bearings, etc…and heavy based on past experience on other vehicles I’ve owned. They were always the budget choice.

The OP is street-driven only and with the HAS, you do have a choice on how low you go. I’d suggest keeping it at an inch or less if it were me. Sent you an email too, Belialith.
-Michel

#13

I upgraded to the black poly bushings. Great product when I did coil overs. Got rid of the electronic suspension as it started leaking. Best thing I did. I went BC coilovers. So much better than factory