Upper control arm, poly bushing replacement

My latest video, this time I replace the OEM style bonded rubber bushings with “lifetime” polyurethane bushings from Proflex. So far so good! More deets later.

Tool wise, just make sure you have a few 16mm wrenches. Audi always likes to use “unusual” sizes.

The basic set of tools is as follows:
-(2) 16mm wrenches, ratcheting version very helpful
-basic metric socket set but you really don’t use it
-impact driver, mine’s a smaller size, 1/4" shank so you don’t overpower everything
-low profile jack
-jack stands
-work lights
-Bushing/bearing press kit https://www.amazon.com/WINTOOLS-Universal-Bearing-Removal-Insertion/dp/B07BH22YCR/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=bushing+removal+kit&qid=1589065300&sr=8-9
-penetrating fluid
-Krytox lubricant https://www.amazon.com/Chemours-Krytox-GPL105-Needle-Bottle/dp/B00WE0DEKW/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=krytox+gpl+105&qid=1589065239&sr=8-1

Parts I used…
OEM nut and bolt kit from ECS Tuning https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/front-upper-control-arm-hardware-kit/n10425302kt/
Powerflex “black” bushings, part number PFF3-203BLK https://www.powerflexusa.com/shop/product/pff3-203-audi-a4-s4-a5-a6-rs4-sq5-vw-passat-b5-front-upper-arm-to-chassis-bushing-2777

These are the individual part numbers for the Audi stretch bolts if you want to try and source them less expensively. Probably just easier to purchase the ECS kit.
(4) Upper control arm inner bolts, # N10425302
(4) Upper control arm inner nuts, # N10286110
(2) Steering upright pinch bolts, # WHT007963
(2) Steering upright pinch bolt nuts, # N10272302

Another great video, even if someone doesn’t diy after this they feel less grumpy paying someone else to do it when they see what’s all involved. :+1:t4:

Thanks @Ape_Factory !

You have done it again, a great detailed video to help so many of us and show us how it should be done !! Nice one brother you da man !!:+1::grin:

It isn’t super hard but again it’ll depend on what you have for springs and whether or not they interfere with the rear control arm bolts.

If you’re just throwing rebuilt arms in, I’d totally do that at home. Pressing in the standard bearings is a bit easier too.

But what really shocked me was that both rear control arms had bad outer bearings, or bearings which were “worn” with no resistance and a bit of play. Wonder if this happens to the OEM arms as well. Could be a result of lowering although I’m not lowered much. I’ll try to get a full tool list up here today, working the day job at the moment (no really!).

I watched the guy adjusting my camber, he only adjusted the rear arm to pull the camber in, I’m curious if this put the the rear arm in a constant pre-load condition.
I assume adjusting the front arm will also adjust the caster due to the angle of the arm but I didn’t really give it much thought…until now!

Could be. I do notice not only do the rear arm outboard bearings go bad but the inner bushings too.

Due for an alignment check myself (once a year), I’ll watch them do it and inquire.

https://www.zoro.com/krytox-oil-gpl-105-needle-nose-bottle-1-oz-gpl-105/i/G0705735/

That stuff is liquid gold IMO. I use it on everything, LOL. Let’s just say NONE of the doors in my house squeak any longer.