You totally don’t need to do the sheet metal. Once the OEM flaps are sealed or seated in their proper place they seal very well.
Lock the OEM flaps and epoxy them them at the base and at each arm pivot point. Then remove the motor arms from the actuator tab.
Mixofia. Search for junk yards in your area. Even a broken intake can be helpful to you.
If you epoxy everything as Justin said, you should be safe.
The sheet metal is handy if the plastic a total mess or already removed.
I’ve officially started my project with an engine flush using 2 cans of liqui moly. I need to drain the coolant as well correct?
Great work… If you take enough time and have some basic idea on this its not too bad of a job…
The PCV isn’t too bad. Water can get into the crank case through humidly or a number of other ways. So it’s not too bad to see the collection on the PCV.
From the pictures the plugs look generally how they would depending on the miles. If you have oil in the plug holes then you should strongly look into doing the valve cover gaskets.
It’s hard to tell from the last picture (i Ifxed it for you) I don’t see any standing oil so your oil filter seals should be ok.
Check your intake.
How do the valves look with the carbon.
This car was sitting for who knows how long (edit well over a year) so I’m not surprised about the pcv. I had some leftover sea foam spray so I flushed most of the fondue out. Is that enough or do I need to replace something?
Just about every plug had oil on it I didn’t take all of the plugs out because of the coolant reservoir is still in and I couldn’t access the plugs. I am about to order those gaskets to fix that.
I haven’t looked at the IM much yet I have it a shake to see if I hear pieces but i didn’t hear anything plus it never threw a code pertaining to it so I’ll hold off on taking that apart for now and the valves are caked.
So i just went on a shopping spree and bought valve cover gaskets, 3 coils, 10 plugs, 3 injector repair kits, spacers are being put on hold for now that’s for after when I’m finished with everything. My next steps are draining the coolant which I guess I just remove the lower hose. Do I need to remove my bumper?
Looks really good after the treatment. Consider flushing the ports with window washer fluid.
Also after you clean the valves pull the plugs and coil packs and run the starter. You will push a lot of stuff out the spark plug port that will stop it from going into the cats. Its a good way to purge the cylinders of any possible carbon or fluid that might have made it into the cylinders.
Yeah I already have 8/10 plugs and packs out I just need to drain the coolant and remove the expansion tank. I’m about to finish taking off the bumper and headlights so I can restore them. I’m also going back to buy 2 more cans of oven cleaner and more brushes
Just make sure to flush out the ports from the oven cleaner with washer fluid.
Use that over brake cleaner?
This is after 2 treatments and carb cleaner my next steps are to finish cleaning and remove the bumper to drain coolant. Should I remove the radiator to make installing the intake manifold easier?
Also curious to know if I need to actually take my intake manifold apart if it didn’t trigger any codes
You can use brake cleaner or washer fluid. Most like washer fluid as it’s not quite as harsh and you can use more of it and just fill the ports all the way up as its cheaper and there is way more washer fluid per bottle than brake cleaner.
As for the intake. Just pull off the flap motor from the body of the intake. From there stand the intake up so you can see inside. Some putt an inspection mirror down into the intake. Move the flap by hand now that the motor isn’t attached to the body of the intake. You should then be able to see each flap moving. If you don’t see some of the flaps moving then it would be a good idea to open the intake and inspect further.
The IM is good for now and I will start using the washer fluid to flush. A bit of that gunk got into the engine when I turned it. I’m guessing it’ll be ok and the filter is going to catch it 
I’m waiting on my valve cover gaskets and injector repair kits to finally get here then I’ll be done. I’ll be forgoing the spacers this time around.
That washer fluid really did the trick and I wish I originally bought it over the brake cleaner even though some of the fluid is now past the valves. I was planning on changing my oil again in 1500 mi
Justin mentioned it in an above post.
You can purge the cylinders of any fluids and some small bits by simply pulling off the coil packs and pulling out the spark plugs. This leaves an opening for cylinder contamination to be pushed through when the motor comes up on compression the compression will push fluids and other bits out the spark plug opening.
Make sure to unplug the fuel pump or unplug the injectors. Let the starter motor run for a few seconds and you will see lots of stuff come out the open port. Works wonders. For me it’s always been a great way to purge after a carbon clean.
