So after searching the forum I’m seeing a few different things on what people are doing with their IMs. Currently I’m trying to see which would be the best option other than buying a new one which is in the works but for temporary use which solution should I move forward with. Either delete the flaps or lock them in the long position. And also how would I lock them in said position?
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If you have an IM issue, replace the IM or sell the car. The locked flap/no flap approach is a joke. It’s like driving a 4 cylinder. Not a real option IMO. Don’t listen to anyone that says otherwise.
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Even temporarily? How bad is it because I’ve heard people lose 30 whp or something around that
Obviously replacing the IM is the best, the next best thing IMO is to remove the flaps, just to be sure nothin gets loose and fly straight in to the cylinder. I had plastic right at the valves!
The car is slower until ~4800 rpm, because of the flaps not doing the change over, after that it’s the same, and at full throttle gear shift will keep it above that rpm so no difference there.
For me 0-100 is close to the 5,4 sec mark (according to an iPhone and the needle gauge).
Full tank of gas 95 (Europe RON?), 8c air temp, IM gutted and lower long runner part removed, PCV-delete and otherwise stock car on winter tiers.
Brakes traction a big on full launch.
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Is there a flap delete guide?
IF you can the best results is to epoxy the runners down in the long runner position.
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Well, it depends on when you want that power.
Doing a 0-200 km/h only 1st gear was below 4850rpm, and above 35 km/h even that gear was above 4850rpm. Looking at the graph the short runners would have been I play 82,5% of the time, in that instance.
But doing pulls in town with low rpm the long runner function will be the best solution to get that “supercharge” effect from the plenum.
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So lock them in long?
If that’s where your need is, than go for that. 
Yes lock them in the long runner. 90% of your driving even aggressive you’ll be in the log runner zone and I have locked a few people on the long runner and then a few others on the gutted intake and Its a night and day difference. You can tell a VERY VERY noticeable difference in power gain with the long runner over the gutted intake
I had mine “gutted” before I knew that, and then I tossed away the parts. Is there a way to do this without the original parts? or does anyone have a set of extra flaps lying around?
I can look and see if I have an old intake manifold around.
I had 4 extra intakes at one time. I locked 2 with great success gave 1 away to someone in need (it was good just needed slight repair) I know I have one extra somewhere. It can be saved. I just have to find it. Where are you located?
I would cut some sheet metal to fit the gap with a small overlap and then epoxy them in.
Still with all the plastics removed as the plastic get porous and end up going straight for the cylinders.
Just see my picture above.
Does anyone have a IM removal guide that has pictures? Or do I just need to get a workshop manual at this point and show everyone myself lol
Thank you so much ! I’m about to tackle this tomorrow
Questions: Where can I get those wrench heads from? If I have a wrench can I just torque those by hand? And what all tools do I need I know I need a triple square head and torx bits
I didn’t have the wrench heads, just did the by hand-torque 
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This job can be done with regular tools such as:
T30
Pliers, for the hose clamps.
Wrenches
A flat headed screw driver is handy for the connectors
Triple squares for the motor mount
Torque wrench
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That’s what I was planning on doing anyway lol thank you for the tips!
The wrench heads are called crows feet and you can get them at any hardware or even harbor freight.
Almost all of the tools maybe not the tripple square. You can get them at most auto stores.
The funny thing is once you do this once. You will see it not too bad. If you get stuck post on here and most of us that have done this will be able to help you on the fly