Velocity Factor didn’t want to install some of the stuff until after break-in. No big deal to me…
Tell me about VCDS? I’m about to order this:
http://plxdevices.com/product_info.php?id=WDBDSMAFR_DM6
…from JHM
Manual boost controller so I can add a little boost if the tune turns out to be more conservative than I’m looking for. I’m not looking for longevity with the turbos. If I get a year or two out of them, I’ll be happy.
DO you honestly not know what VCDS is? http://www.ross-tech.com/
I only asked because why wouldn’t you just use VCDS (VAG-COM) to log AFR and other parameters? Unless you just want a cool gauge it seems like a waste, and I think a Ross-tech cable would be much more beneficial.
I asked about the boost controller because I personally would prefer an electronic boost controller. An EBC is a little more complicated but will give you much better boost control with possible options of boost by gear and could also control spikes.
I also don’t think manually adjusting boost is a good idea, unless your sure that the tun will adapt to the boost you are requesting. I’ve seen a lot of guys try to crank the BOOST up without thinking about the other things that need to be changed. Regardless of the longevity of your turbos if one of them eats itself you may be sacrificing the built motor that took forever.
Dont mess with your boost. let JHM sort out your car. I think your talking to CV do yourself a favor and follow what he saiys to a T. dont mess with the boost.
what parts didn’t get put on your car
dig boost controlers are good but MBC are great if you have big enougjh turbos you don’t need to have full lockl up of the watste gates.
VCDS is great. Get a wideban but you don’t need a loger. It wouldn’t be bad if you got a logger for the AFR as VCDS isn’t going to be very accurate on the B5 like it is on the B6 and B7
Okay. I’ll get the manual boost controller and refrain from having it installed at this point. If I need it, I’ll have it. I purchased a VAG connector from eBay (VAG KKL). I’m not sure what software I need to use with it but I suppose it’s not difficult to find. I just haven’t crossed that bridge yet. CV wants the car to have a wide band installed so I’ll move forward with having that taken care of. The tune is in his hands…
930 miles on the rebuilt engine now. I’ll have over 1000 miles on the car tomorrow. Can I start playing a little or should I wait until I get closer to 1500?
Whatever JHM/velocity told you to do!
Velocity Factor said at least 1000, preferably 1500. I’m getting an itchy right foot.
itchy right foot will cost you $3000 when you need your trans pulled/clutch replaced.
Just ask gibsonl
They said 500 miles for clutch break-in… Not good enough?
ah, I thought that’s the break-in you were referring to
you meant engine. Forgot you got built. Crazy that you’re driving it. I would have lost a whole case of Coke…I thought you’d ditch the car and never start it up. Glad I was wrong.
Thanks. 
Should be finished and tuned next week. Any input on the engine break-in? Wait, right?
Err on the side of more. No one ever complained that they did it for too many miles.
There must be a market for pre-broken in clutches and engines lol. The 750 miles to break in my clutch was torture! I can’t imagine 1500.
I’d have paid extra for a previously broken in clutch and engine!
Well! I got up to 960 miles before I can’t drive it anymore. I went to shift into third and the clutch just stayed on the floor. I lifted it up with my foot but as soon as I touch it, it just drops to the floor. Probably not a major issue but certainly inconvenient. I haven’t been stuck in the road since I was a kid. AAA is on the way.