Looking at going a bit wider on the rear wheels. It would look something like this.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g120/basa820/Untitled-10.jpg
Any risks with the way they go out a bit past the wheel?
Aside from it being illegal with the HTA (doubt any cop will pull you over for being a couple mms over though), the only real risk is rubbing. Assuming you’ve confirmed it won’t rub, I don’t see any risks.
Hydroplaning
More resistance maybe means more slow
Really if the rubber pokes out past the wheel is illegal? i did not know that.
Good to know.
EDIT
just checked the HTA, its pretty cryptic.
[quote]Regulations and offences, tires
- (1) The Lieutenant Governor in Council may make regulations,
(a) prescribing the standards and specifications of tires or any class or classes thereof in use on vehicles or any class or classes thereof;
(b) prescribing classes of tires;
© prescribing the standards and specifications of used or retreaded tires offered for sale and prohibiting the sale of the tires or any type thereof that do not comply with the standards and specifications therefor prescribed by the regulations or that are not marked in accordance with the regulations;
(d) providing for and requiring the identification and marking of used or retreaded tires;
(e) prohibiting the use of any type of tire on a highway at any time or during any period of the year and designating the period;
(e.1) exempting any vehicle or person or class or type of vehicles or class of persons from a prohibition under clause (e) and regulating the use of a type of tire that is otherwise prohibited under clause (e) for the purpose of such exemption, including prescribing the period of the year during which and geographic areas where the exemption applies and other conditions and circumstances that must exist for the exemption to apply;
(f) prescribing procedures for examining tires for the purpose of determining whether the prescribed standards and specifications have been met;
(g) regulating installation and placement of tires to be used on vehicles or any class or classes thereof;
(h) regulating combinations of tires installed on vehicles or any class or classes thereof;
(i) Repealed: 2006, c. 19, Sched. T, s. 5.
R.S.O. 1990, c. H.8, s. 70 (1); 2005, c. 26, Sched. A, s. 11; 2006, c. 19, Sched. T, s. 5.
Codes
(2) Any regulation may adopt by reference, in whole or in part, with the changes that the Lieutenant Governor in Council considers necessary, any code, and may require compliance with any code that is so adopted. R.S.O. 1990, c. H.8, s. 70 (2).
Offence
(3) No person shall operate or permit to be operated upon a highway a vehicle that is,
(a) fitted with a tire that does not conform with the standards and specifications prescribed in the regulations; or
(b) fitted with tires that are installed in a manner, in a place or in a combination that does not conform with the specifications prescribed in the regulations. R.S.O. 1990, c. H.8, s. 70 (3).
Penalty
(4) Every person who contravenes this section or any regulation made under this section is guilty of an offence and on conviction is liable to a fine of not more than $1,000. R.S.O. 1990, c. H.8, s. 70 (4).
Same – commercial motor vehicle
(4.1) Despite subsection (4), every person who contravenes this section or any regulation made under this section is guilty of an offence and, if the offence was committed by means of a commercial motor vehicle within the meaning of subsection 16 (1), on conviction is liable to a fine of not less than $200 and not more than $20,000. 1996, c. 20, s. 16.
(5) Repealed: 1999, c. 12, Sched. R, s. 13.
(6) Repealed: 1999, c. 12, Sched. R, s. 13.
[/quote]
This and may kick up more road debris onto your bumper/fender
Wrong HTA section.
Ontario HTA Sec. 66
(3) Every motor vehicle and every trailer shall be equipped with mudguards or fenders or other device adequate to reduce effectively the wheel spray or splash of water from the roadway to the rear thereof, unless adequate protection is afforded by the body of the motor vehicle or trailer or by a trailer drawn by the motor vehicle. R.S.O. 1990, c. H.8, s. 66 (3).
So basically, the cop can give you a ticket if he feels like being an ass but it can be fought in court and usually won depending on the justice of the peace’s day and what mood he happens to be in.
Ok so it’s not about the rubber bring past the wheel but the rubber bring past the fender…
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That is correct. The tire can go past the wheel. As long as you’re within the recommended tire size for the wheel, you’re fine in terms of installation. Usually, a wheel will have three numbers. Minimum tire size, recommended tire size, maximum tire size. If you’re within that range, you’re perfectly fine.
Or do a really sticky narrowish tire. Toyo R888 are incredible, but you have to be careful in the rain. I’m running them in 315 for the spring
I’m going to try some pss but go up from 285 to 305. I really had traction issues with the car when I hammer down… even at around 45 mph I still spin out with traction control on
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Maybe they just need to be warmed up first
PSS suck for acceleration. They won’t hook no matter what you do. You need a soft, preferably R-compound tire if you want acceleration. Toyo R888, MT et street, nitto nt05, etc. stuff like that is the only thing that will hook up on a high powered rwd car.
word. I was cutting 1.82-1.83 sixty foot times with my old tires, but couldn’t manage better than 1.9 on 90 percent of my passes with the pss…and a few 1.87-1.89 times.
I talked about this somewhere here… My theory is that the channel tires all suck for going from a dig and don’t grip, whereas the directional patterns like toyo proxes r which I had before, get you touching the ground across virtually the entire width of the tire as they spin a little. The pss spin and the channels are just constantly air vs contact
Same with the continental contisport2 I had on the car before the toyo.
Bora, is it for street or strip? Or road course?
Mainly street with the occasional strip visit.
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(sorry if this sounds like an advertising for a tire/wheel company, but I believe it) …In your situation at the strip, I’d strongly consider a dedicated set of rears with M/Ts or Hoosier drags in 305 or 315. CTS-V guys seem to pick up some corvette front wheel to use on their rear for the strip, IIRC.
If you were at the road course, dedicated set of wheels with NT01s, RA1s (better than R888), I’d definitely not recommend dailying a set of R-compounds - I do drive with RA1s on the street occasionally, but the wear rate is tremendous and makes getting a dedicated set of wheels very feasible. And as they said, rain sucks (and a lot of R-compounds perform in the dry well beyond the tread is gone…RA1s can go until they are corded).
I don’t think, on the street, you’ll notice much difference with a 20mm wider tire, esp if they aren’t warmed up…it would be cosmetic difference only (which is still a valid reason). I’d even argue that when warmed up, the difference between tire brands and heat cycles on the tire will be a much bigger difference than the 20mm width. Another difference a lot of people love whatever tires they buy “next” - is a lot of max-performance tires have a much harder compound at the bottom of the tread, or became hard through too many heat cycles or age - it’s inevitable.
I’d stick with the PSS, if you can get them, or the continental DW, in the width suitable for the rim…They have no less straight-line traction than any other max-performance tire. My opinion…
What’s the point of track slick wheels and tires? Not very street.
Yeah saki you are on the right track about the “ribbed tires” being worse at the strip. If you have a 255 tire but only 70% of that width is touching the pavement at any given time(such as PSS, DW, CSC2), then you have really only a 178mm wide tire on the ground.
RA1 are great for ngngroadracingsuperstar guys but R888 are the king for a street-friendly drag radial. Not classified as a drag radial, but they hook like no other in the dry and they are manageable on wet roads.
Look up R888 on any corvette, camaro, mustang, etc. forum and you will see what I mean. There’s 650whp cobras running 315 wide r888 and they hook in first.
Plus…the way they look from the back…this particualr car puts down 659whp on a whipple 2.3 on 20lbs. gigiidy
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x59/joec1992/r8881_zps017cb3b9.jpg
Flex. drag slicks are soft and they flex to absorb some of the drive-train shock. This prevents shit from breaking, and it lets the tires grab the pavement instead of hopping. The skinny front tires are for less drag. 135 wide tire doesn’t drag nearly as much as a 235.
They are also retarded light. My 15x10.5 Weld Prostars with M/T ET streets weigh about 20lbs a pop. (guessing, haven’t weighed them)
Here is an example. That flex you see is literally what reduces hop, and allows them to hook. The “give” also saves your axles and such
http://forum.streetlegaltv.com/photos/data/630/mtsmall3.jpg
Stock '13 GT500 on factory steam rollers: 11.6
Stock '13 GT500 on slicks/skinnies: 10.9
I get that but I mean what is the point of putting slicks on your daily driver. Seems ridiculous.
Having them just for the strip makes little sense to me on 4000 lb daily driven cars. Like pulling your seats out etc.
I get it on a dedicated track car or a singular purpose car like a 3200 lb cobra… But on a four door family sedan with leather everything and power everything, it’s kinda ludicrous. Why not take the doors off too to shed some weight. And the trunk and the bumpers and hood. Because it makes your time a useless benchmark? So does drag slicks.
If you’re really into it just to see how fast you can go or are legitimately making a go of it as a drag car, by all means have at it. But doing it on your luxury cruiser makes no sense to me. We use the dragstrip as a benchmark to define the capabilities of the car. If you take away what defines the car (a comfy luxuriously appointed daily driver) the time as a comparative benchmark, becomes irrelevant in my opinion.