Thanks. I’m changing. the look though. Over the weekend I installed carbon fiber mirror caps (off with the alu). Today I mounted the wheels. Next: black out the alu window trim (with wrap), paint calipers and possibly black out the front alu lower lip. Then I need to start thinking about a slight drop.
btw…your car is off the charts. Love what you’re doing with it. What made you pass on the Daytona? Did you find that gorgeous red car of yours at the same time?
Washed, claybar’ed, compound polish, paste waxed her! Will eventually get a full ppf wrap and ceramic coating. Going to cost $7k~ (CAD)
Mythos? Looks exactly like mine. Love it
Yes sir! 2015 Mythos black metallic. So classy.
I just clay bared and polished mine. that color is amazing.
Slapped on some custom black chrome HRE FF01s, new Michelin PS4S and replaced a vibrating B&O speaker. Looks mean. I’ll post pics later.
I love the rotor look on the RS5, but the damn weight!
Today I drove the RS5 for the first time in two weeks. I think she was really happy to actually hit the road. Didn’t have a battery tender on her and cranking was sloooow but she fired right up. Ran like a champ despite the 95 degree Fahrenheit temps. Way too early for that sort of sh*t.
I went and picked up five new cross bars and brackets for the new Evo RMR transmission cooler kit and after things cooled down a bit, I took the bumper off to verify bracket dimensions (spot on!). I left her on front jacks as I may start to tackle the upper control arm mounts tomorrow. It’ll take me 30 minutes to get the upper arms out and old bearings removed and five hours to get the new ones back in, LOL.
ECS rotors are lighter and cheaper. Look much better against my black rims
Rebuilt my Stern adjustable upper control arms over the past few days. After getting them off, I realized two of the outer bushings which insert into the suspension upright were no longer in the best shape. Not horrible but I wasn’t going to put them back on like that. So I ordered a rebuild kit.
I’d already replaced the inner bushings with poly bushings so I now have four new bonded rubber OEM style if anyone wants them, LOL.
Got them on, wasn’t too difficult overall but I took my time due to work duties and just left her up on “blocks”. A bit over a week was enough to kill the battery. My charger/tender died and I’d only driven her once in the past month. Trying to resuscitate the battery with a new charger now. If it doesn’t work, I’ll likely grab the Antigravity LifeP04 battery and save 30 pounds.
Fully rebuilt!
Here’s one of the Aurora end link bearings. The goop on the top of the ball and bottom of the control arm is grease. Someone put a dab of grease down there. Not sure why…they’re internally “lubed” with a teflon liner. The grease can actually cause the teflon to deteriorate. All four had it and I cleaned the crap out of them before pressing the new ones back in. I’ll post a full writeup and video soon.
I got the software and navigation updates. I am only sure it works for European vehicles though (apologies everyone else). Definitely recommend it. Obviously clay bar and paint seal. Last time I used washing up soap 
this time shampoo as it works ok with the clay bar not being able to find the real maguire stuff in Europe easily.
Per our instruction manual hand soap bar (I used Marseille soap) and brush for the leather and steering wheel too, and for the aluminium color exhaust tips cleaning paste/polish for cleaning pots and pans, sinks and faucets: works better than any non sense specific products or wheel cleaner what have you.
I actually used an update purchased off of Ebay and from the UK. Works in the U.S. too, just need to give them the correct details. I think it was $55USD. I just did the MMI system, not the nav as I use CarPlay and it’s nav system now.
So…what have I done to my RS5 today?
Well it really started about 7 weeks ago when I decided to use my COVID 19 lockdown time (yes we here are still in hard lockdown!) to replace the front rotors and pads. No issue. Then started on the rears and had an issue winding back the piston. Did everthing by the book. VCDS to retract the EPB, had the audi specific caliper tool but to no avail and yes I tore the dust boot. Knowing my mechnical ability did not extend to pulling the caliper apart I decided to take the car to a trusted mechanic I have used for previous cars. They specialise in exotic Euros and frankly most of the cars there made me feel a little inadequate (a Mclaren parked to the left, AMG GTS parked to the right, 911 Turbo behind etc etc). Nevertheless I was still very proud of my little RS5!
I asked them to repair the dust boot, fit the rear rotors and pads, give the car a once over and while it was there given COVID restrictions and me not in a hurry to get the car back, give me a quote for a new exhaust, an ECU tune and TCU tune. They have tuned a few RS5s with seemingly quite good results (although they kept telling me only modest gains are possible given the NA engine and too much tuning can lead to lots of detonation). I was really keen to go the JHM route for exhaust and tune but the exchange rate and delivery costs and no real local assistance made it just too difficult.
So, 7 weeks later I got my car back today complete with new rotors/pads all round, new upper control arms all round, new front lower control arms, new spark plugs, BMC air filters, Capristo exhaust, ECU and TCU tunes…
They are going to send me copies of the dyno before and after although he said it performed a little under factory specs before they went to work. What he did give me is the attached which seems to show a not too bad HP and torque increase plus a max speed of 246km/h at 8030rpm! Faster than I will ever go that’s for sure.
Given I’m not allowed to really travel more than 5km from home at the moment fair to say I have not really got any great handle on the improvements. He said the exhaust sound will get deeper over the next 1000km or so. It is certainly louder, no discernable drone anywhere, but not obnoxiously loud (which is good). Car feels a little quicker off the line (TCU tune apparently) and perhaps I noticed more mid rev range push but maybe not so much at the top end. Again, very initial small sample of driving.
Next up is PS4S tyres to be fitted in the next day or so and while I had given the car an oil change not long before it went to the mechanic I may change it again.
Other than that I can’t wait to be able to take it for a drive on that long and winding road…
He also sent me a couple of short video clips on the dyno but I can’t seem to load them here.
You’ll probably have to host them someplace like Vimeo or YouTube and then share them here.
I already stripped the SAI valves off the back of my new low mile engine that I’m installing and used B7 RS4 block off plates but today I went out and stripped the two electric Air motors and SAI plumbing from the front end. They sit right behind the Aux radiators so not only are you stripping off another 10lbs of weight from the very front (although low CG), you are definitely improving the airflow to the Aux radiators. Along with Ape’s Aluminum bumper re-inforcement the car should flow air much better for cooling.
Hauled mine to the Body shop yesterday (Daytona Grey) with the idea that my new Seibon hood would get painted. After installing the hood the Carbon matches the Daytona pretty well and with the ECS Carbon rear spoiler it’s a great match. I’m just going to have him do some paint touchups and redo the door trim (previous owner had it painted Black so I’m getting it redone Black, but better quality than the previous owner). I priced the OEM Audi Shiny Black (optional I guess to the standard silver) door/roof trim. Even discounted it looks like about $400 per door, it’s definitely not going to cost me $800 to have both sides redone. Funny thing is the polished Aluminum is about $100 more per side. After this I’m just waiting on my JHM rear exhaust section and I’ll be ready to drive. Sounds pretty mean with just the headers and X-pipe when cold started. I wonder if JHM can tweak their tune to shorten the cold start cycle? Mine seems to last 20~30 seconds of higher revving, on my 3.0t S5 it only seems to last about 10 seconds.
Sounds like it’s nearly there now just the final touches, I bet you can’t wait !!
My cold start lasts about 20 seconds if that but I do find it stays on a little longer if it’s cold outside.
Also you might find once you start using it more and more often the cycle time might shorten a bit as it’s been sitting for a while now while doing everything to turn it in to a beast !!!
Got mine back from the body shop on Monday, it looks beautiful. I’m still waiting on the window/side trim for around the door/side window. They make the trim in brushed aluminum, glossy black, and black. I dont’ think the plain black was available in N. America but that is what I ordered. All 3 types were within a hundred dollars of each other but wow, endes up being about $750 per side, $1500 just for both sides window trim. Mine was originally the brushed Aluminum, previous owner had it painted a glossy black with some scratches, now I went in deep. The Black had to come from Europe so expecting another two weeks, plus waiting on my rear section JHM exhaust which was orderd 2 1/2 mths ago. Did I happen to say the car looks great, Daytona grey, for now left the Seibon Carbon hood bare clear coated, goes with the Carbon ECS rear spoiler and the Carbon rear diffuser. Bought a new sunshade assembly as the one in the car is screwed up (common B8/B8.5 problem) so I might tackle that in the next two weeks.
Where’s the pictures would love to see it ?
Sounds lovely tho what you have done to it and the amount of work put in is impressive !!
Well done buddy 
