I’m starting to notice a clunk happening more and more often when I’m driving. There are several different situations that it happens. If I coast the car for a few seconds and the hit the gas I get a clunk that I can feel in the seat. It feels like it’s coming from behind me too. Is this because the gears are just worn down and there’s a bunch of slop? It also happens occasionally when I’m shifting gears as I’m letting the clutch out. Doesn’t happen when I’m extremely gentle with letting the clutch out. It wasn’t as bad a couple weeks ago but then after I did a 3k rpm launch it seemed like it became more prominent. I’m pretty much convinced my transmission is going to take a shit on me sooner than later because all the mounts are new, I just installed the LSD with new diff fluid, and the diff mount is tight. I can’t think of anything else as everything is torqued down nice and tight. What’s the worst case scenario if my transmission goes out? Again for those of you that don’t know, I’m competing in a half mile side by side roll race at the end of June. The race starts at 50 mph so the speeds I’ll be hitting are going to be quite high. Am I risking destroying my car because of the transmission. Thanks in advance, I appreciate any insight.
CV joints? Get it up on a lift and see where the drivetrain slop is. I doubt the race would hurt your transmission.
Thanks for the advice. I’ll check that out tonight or tomorrow. Definitely a good guess because I didn’t change the joint when I installed the LSD.
It was the fucking diff mount again. The 3 boots somehow keep coming loose. I used red loctite when I reinstalled it too.
Loctite needs clean threads to work properly.
at least you found the issue!
did you use new bolts and torque them?
Thanks guys. I just recycled the bolts say they aren’t stretch bolts. I’m guessing the bolts had some oil or grease on them. Hoping they’ll stay tight this time.
So this keeps happening. It started on the way home again so I jacked it up, pulled the driver side exhaust pipe, and went in for a closer look. I rotated the mount so I could try tightening the bolts directly into the diff. It seems as if the threads in the diff case are stripped because the bolts pull right out.
That being said, what would you do to repair this? Personally, I wouldn’t mind if the mount was just welded to the diff case since I won’t be taking it out anymore.
If the threads are stripped, a helicoil should do it. Another option is drill it out and tap it for the next size up. That said, I haven’t seen the space you have to work with. Definately need to fix that before hitting the 1/2 mile shootout.
What type of material are the threads?
That helicoil is probably the way to go. Thanks for the suggestion, +karma. As far as space goes, if I pull the rear drivers side section of the exhaust, there’s quite a bit of space. I could get even more space without pulling the entire diff case by just removing the carrier bolts and lowering it a little bit.
Went to get an alignment today so I asked the shop to quote fixing the threads in the diff case. They quoted me $890 to step it up to the next size which is M12 so I ended up just ordering the heli-coil kit. Hoping I can do everything on Saturday.
To do it properly I’m just going to pull the whole diff case. I think I can get it out without pulling any control arms. At most I might have to disconnect the rear upper control arms so there’s enough room to keep the axles from holding the diff case in there.
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About 3 hours to save $800. Not bad. Thanks again for the suggestion. Time to go launch this bitch.
Awesome job! great savings too!
Thanks Eddie. I couldn’t believe they quoted me that much. With the steps I took, I had the diff case completely free from the car in about an hour. Once that was done, taking my sweet ass time, I had the holes drilled and re threaded in about 20 minutes. I realize shops have a lot of overhead but damn, definitely glad I just did this myself.