OK so the other day I did a hard 2nd gear pull and noticed that I left a decent amount of blue smoke behind me. At the time I believe the CEL was on because I haven’t gotten the JHM tune and I’m running catless DPs. For the first 2 weeks the CEL never came on and then it came on a stayed for about a week and a half. It has since turned off. I was also going through quite a bit of oil. Earlier this year I was replacing about a qt. every 500-750 miles and since the exhaust went in I burned about double that. The oil change had been done about 3500 miles/12 months prior to when I put the exhaust in. My mechanic told me the low oil light would come on when the oil was about a qt. short. So I would add a qt. each time it came on. I just did a full oil change to 5w 40 lubro moly and am hoping this is mainly to do with the oil being a little old plus the fact that my car is running rich. It does seem like there is quite a bit of oil on the underside of the car but not enough to accumulate anything on the ground in the garage. I can’t tell if my car is running slower than what it should be because I have nothing to compare to. What kind of problems am I looking at?
Did it leave smoke when you got off the throttle or when you were on it?
The car isn’t going to be much faster with catless Dp’s without the tune. The ECU limits power.
The potential good news is that if you’re burning more oil now that your catless check you PCV system.
From there I would suggest getting a comp test.
The smoke only comes out at WOT, as soon as i get off it at all the smoke stops. It seems like there is oil in the PCV system. I was going to setup a catch can to see if it stops. I didn’t think the DPs really did much without the tune but I’m just trying to be patient with that because I plan on getting the JHM s/c in about 3 months. From what I’ve gathered the kit eliminates the PCV problem, is that correct? If I get a compression test what is the correct psi? I’ve heard as long as its over 100psi you’re good but I’m thinking that’s kinda low.
As a general rule of thumb (that I follow) if/when your oil light comes on, check the dipstick. Don’t just add a full qt. Example: The light can illuminate after some spirited runs through some twisties. This is usually due to the oil heading to the left or right of the pan while making a long higher speed sweeping turn and away from the oil level sensor. In short, you may only really be down a half - 3/4’s of a quart and you don’t want to overfill. That can cause the PCV to dump some excess (not a technical term lol) and some smoke will exit the exhaust on throttle. Another reason to check the dipstick, the sensor may be faulty.
Compression test - there is a guide that will let you know the ranges for PSI rates. New vs. acceptable vs. fail. There may be a guide on here I can’t remember. Concensus usually is as long as each cylinder is within 10% of one another you’re “ok.” I think if you’re above 140ish and within 10% of one another you’re good. DOn’t quote me as I’m doing the range from memory.
Edit: This link should be helpful re: compression testing.
Get compression test done professionally --> If good change PCV yourself
I’d do dry and a wet compression test. If you have some basic auto care knowledge you can complete a compression test yourself. A kit retails around $100 and to me it’s a great investment.
I went and picked up a compression test kit today so I’m going to get some numbers this weekend. I read the compression test results thread here on AR and found some other threads and videos about doing the compression test and it doesn’t seem to be that difficult. Run the car for about ten minutes so it’s at running temp, pull the fuel pump fuse and let the engine die from no gas, remove coil packs, remove spark plugs, connect the compression kit hose and gauge, press the gas to the floor, crank the engine 6 times, log the results, and repeat for each cylinder. Am I missing anything? Consistency is the mainly what I should be looking for, and if I’m not mistaken I shouldn’t be below 130 psi. I’m praying I get as good of results as SpeedETC but I doubt it.
Ill try to make a video this weekend. Ill see if I can do it on both a B6 and a B5 S4 that should be able to help if you need it.
That would be great Count…I’ve done a compression test myself but only on Honda’s and wasn’t sure if it was different for the Audis
I’m pretty sure the s4 won’t let you open up the throttle when you’re cranking it. I just took off the MAF hose, disconnected the harness going to the TB, then i opened up the TB and put a screw driver in there to hold it open. It doesn’t need to be open a lot