I just hit 100k and will be doing some maintenance on her. I just did an oil change and cabin filter.
The one on the left is unknown miles vs the new one on right.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160404/8b49e15700ff0db1c6fe7df421aa64e5.jpg
I have my air filters left to do, spark plugs and control arms. I am going to do a carbon clean this summer one it gets nice out.
What else should I look at replacing at this time?
When you pull the intake that will let you know if you need to look further into replacement of seals and stuff like that. The JHM intake spacers are always a good add on when doing the carbon clean and when you are pulling out the plugs look to see the condition of the coil packs.
Also when you do the carbon clean you have to pull a lot out of the way. Its a good time to check the valve cover gaskets at the same time.
Another good thing to change is the fuel filter. The A8s had issues with the LPFP dying on them. The dealers have suggested that not replaceing the fuel filter could have been part of those issues.
ATF if it’s never been done, AT filter
All major fluids that haven’t been done
All filters that haven’t been done
Plugs if not done
Basically just look at Maint schedule and use the severe condition recommendations 
ATF hasn’t been done and I don’t think I want to do it. It seems to be one of those things that if you didn’t do it at 50k that I’d rather leave it sealed. I don’t seem to have any issues with my tranny at this point.
I do have my fuel filter waiting to be installed as well. I forgot that I have that in a box. For the coil packs, what kind of wear am I looking for to tell me that they need to be replaced?
The carbon cleaning will be during the summer and hopefully at that time I’ll buy the JHM spacers. But $300 isn’t in the budget right now for them. That money went to the control arms which I deemed a bigger issue. 
No real ware to look at on the coil packs. Just pull them check the build date and see if they all have the same part number. if they all have the same build date they will all have the same part number. You just want to check and see if some coil packs were replaced and others not.
Yeah it’s a big debate in the auto world.
I did this at 50kish in my s6, but I also did this at 98k in my cayenne GTS. And fully recommend it, but if you want to keep sealed I see that perspective but my experience is that it is beneficial. My cars both shifted much better, and for me it was better to know that fluid was fresh and I was covered for at least another 50-100k on the trans
Plus one on coil pack check
Other than those big and little things you should be good. Great on control arms fresh wins really show case handling in the s6 assuming you have a nice set of tires
Good call on the transmission fluid. Its hard to say when you get that high in the miles the fluid gets burnt to a point and if you replace the fluid you get a slick thin fluid. Sometimes that fluid can cause the transmission to slip from being so slick.
The old fluid has parts of the clutches in it and that helps keep the fluid grabby.
Yeah for me it was worth the risk I did it on three more recent cars at 50k, 40k and 95k. All made noticeable differences
You can at least check the atf filter and magnet and see if there are any gear shavings etc., if not I’d do it but yeah up to you. The WA I saw it s I’m keeping my car for at least anotherc100k assuming it’s not already slipping it helps this cause now or never kinda thing
Curious if cv changed his unsure of mileage tho
I think you will be fine replacing the ATF. I did it on my jeep that had 180k miles and my girlfriends old lexus that has 201k miles. Both were fine and the shifting was greatly improved.
So a little update. I got the air filters in. This is what the passenger side looked like and what the new one looks like:
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160418/8736dcb4d69f12e35ba5fb1f46f5f518.jpg
Then I changed my spark plugs and found oil in each well. Some was a lot some was little. Is this normal? As I posted on another site and someone said they had oil in each well even after they replaced the valve cover gaskets.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160418/5ec422897bffcc12d01409fa7a27944d.jpg
Thoughts? advise?
Wow that filter was ready to get out. That new filter should help bring some life back into the car.
As for the plugs. When you pulled the coil packs out did the legs of the coil packs have oil on them. Was there oil on the bottom of the plugs.
The coil packs had oil on them. Some wells had enough that I used my suction to get it out before pulling the plugs.
I didn’t notice any misfire’s yet with the oil being in there and I don’t know how long it has been like that. I marked the new plugs and will monitor the oil getting in.
No oil was making it pass the threads into the end of the plug or into the cylinder.
I had the same problem. there is an additional “spark plug gap seal” below the camshaft “heads” that I had to replace. it was bone dry and tore on removal. Not an easy job.
So why did you replace it if it was bone dry? Do you have the part number for it?
Wow that shouldnt be happening. Your definitly pushing oil past the gaskets. The one gasket he is talking about is very hard to get to you almost have to have the motor out of the car when you do it. Its the secondary gasket under the camshafts.
The one thing you might want to look into if you can is. Check your PCV system and see how that is. There is obviously enough pressure to push the oil past the gaskets in the crank case. Lowering that might help a little bit. If you can monitor how long it takes to get standing oil in the galley. The good thing is the coil packs seal to the top of the plug and thats where the transfer of the electronic charge takes place.
I’ve replaced the oil separator. What other parts should I be checking out? Is it worth trying and replacing the valve gasket?
I’ll be monitoring it and checking it frequently.
The oil seperator is one part of it. You might want to pull the valve covers and replace the gaskets and plug gaskets with a little RTV to help. When you pull the valve covers check the PCV ports on the covers and see if they are in good condition. Its normal to see some crusty build up but that build up can get so bad that it really prevents flow through the breather tubes. Its also a good idea to pull the breather tubes and make sure they are not all crusted up and blocking flow.
Ok Ok. I will try and figure this out. I attempted to order the left side gasket from the dealer and they will only sell the valve cover. Which I knew but figured worth the try.
I came across this:
https://www.hansautoparts.com/07L103471Q-Cylinder-Head-Cover.aspx
Thoughts? It’s only $40 but chatting with them they don’t have a brand or where it was made.
Will the gasket set from ECS:
https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-D3_S8-Quattro-D3_V10/Engine/Covers/ES2684773/
work even though I have the old valve cover?
Got a little more info on that part.
They are made in Germany but the build date is 11.08.2006.
It makes me think that although it is new it is the old valve cover.
You will need to modify it but yes it will work, it’s been on my car for about 8months now with no issues and no leaks. If I recall the mechanic had to cut a little extra off the newer style gasket. Got mine at ECS as well.