6+ year old Audi maintenance

B8 S4
#20

If you haven’t already done this then I would.

Replacing the mounts is pretty easy but time consuming. By the way, a lot of Audis have had active mounts for a while. The best part though is that Audi tied the engine mounts into the low side fuel pump wiring circuit so if your engine mounts fail on certain B8s then that can kill the fuel pump in the tank too.

http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=3781.msg118516#msg118516

Are you getting the stock style but all rubber replacement mounts or the metal track style mounts? I ask because V6s tend to vibrate pretty bad since they don’t run smoothly. As compared to the white V8 B8 S5 in my thread had completely blown engine mounts and he would have never noticed unless I pointed it out to him.

See if the B8.5 fender liners fit because I think that they went to a harder like plastic if I remember correctly.

#21

Engine mounts are lol

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170616/d4ff569d9b9ad64f1e372e10bcb7034d.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170616/2b8c0f434f0dd95149b3202f64c0c294.jpg

#22

Let us know how bad the vibrations are.

#23

Part is going in today. Should have a review tomorrow or next week.

#24

When doing the power steering fluid, they also replaced a $300 electronic part for stability control that broke. It’s like a tube with a sensor off of the power steering unit. It broke during the service so I didn’t have to pay for it.

The car feels awesome with the solid engine mounts. Kind of like a power boat. A lot more connected feel, but no harsh vibrations in the steering like a go kart. Would recommend. Makes a much more noticeable difference than the transmission insert or the diff insert.

#25

The car is awesome on track with the solid engine mounts. It feels like the engine was lowered 2". In reality it just isn’t wiggling around as much. I could not perceive any difference with the solid transmission mount and the sport diff mount. This was a night and day difference.

I’d say it only really vibrates at low engine speed, especially in first gear around 5 MPH. But then it isn’t noticeably running rough: it never feels bad through your hands in the wheel.

#26

I think I should replace the front wheel bearings in the next year, as a preventative measure. I did the rear wheel bearings when had the RS5 wave rotors installed out back.

#27

If you still do a lot of drack driving that might not be a bad idea. But normally wheel bearings don’t tend to go bad that often.

#28

Time to do the rear rotors. I had switched to the RS5 wave rotor exactly 3 years ago. With the wing and the stiff rear suspension, the back of the car is actually doing a lot of brake work now. I went through 2 or 3 set of rear pads on these rotors. I’ll also do a caliper rebuild on the rear.

In April 2018, I’ll do new front rotor rings (brembo type 3), and rebuild the GT-R calipers. I’ll also replace the front wheel bearings at that time.

#29

They look so nice when they’re new. Got the caliper rebuild kit, which is basically a bunch of piston seals. And got new Pagid RS19 pads for the rear.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171112/229be4dc0231b94a52317bb504d6d55b.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171112/f64aee56a138aacec1ca367f8fe5f811.jpg

Used:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171112/d49460a3ffc7b6998b540781de315f76.jpg

#30

Potenza RE-71R is a full 5 pounds heavier than Michelin Cup2.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171117/87650a68d4647baaa71fa813e242ab06.jpg

#31

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171118/8f135eedfe32c5f23e29db08dad7722b.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171118/6d48b92fc1fe0f64fcc9238d5993f888.jpg

#32

that’s heavy for as much as you track your car. you’ve got 5lbs to lose per corner

#33

It’s bad for top speed, certainly. I have plenty of brakes to stop the extra mass. My top speeds are only 129-130 anyway.

It’s a much wider tire. It’s like a 265 at least, even though I ordered 255.

#34

That’s why they are 5lbs more (265 vs 255); in the same size the difference is 2 lbs:
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Bridgestone&tireModel=Potenza+RE-71R&sidewall=Blackwall&partnum=635WR8RE71RXL&tab=Specs
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=Pilot+Sport+Cup+2&sidewall=Blackwall&partnum=635YR8PSC2XL&tab=Sizes

If you go with 265/30/19 - save 3 lbs per corner right there ; that’s the size I use to daily…yes I can feel every pebble but I love it ;D

Keep in mind another benefit is that overall diameter is 25.3" vs 26.3" which leads to less rotational inertia = quicker acceleration

#35

Fenders flared.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180120/ea8fdc49fba2152d08fc49bb1c2ef7a0.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180120/d369d47b44471b61560bcf2be774a214.jpg

#36

Love RE71s! Such an amazing Tire, but they don’t last long on our cars on the track, assuming you push them hard. I used to fit 275/35/18 with just a minor fender roll and some camber.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180120/acae7df6aaf3ebe8ee41cd6e260115a7.jpg

Now I’ve fallen victim to the purple crack.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180120/6d5beabfc8ac43c72af2ca169a599b5f.jpg

#37

Still amazes me that Audi used two left rotors on the front and rear of the RS5. That rear rotor in your picture is going the wrong way.

#38

Are the vanes directional? I didn’t even think it was vaned, on account of the low heat and low effort on the rears. The venting is pretty thin for how close the platters are. I replaced these early but it had been over 3 years so I thought it was time. The wing and the stiff rear spring coax the rear end to actually heat up on my car.

#39

Yep