I posted over in Vendorzine, figured I’d post up here too. Heard my fans running full speed with 58* outside air, so obviously something was wrong, pulled up the scantool water temp was hovering at 236-233*. I was really praying mice had eaten the temp sensor wires, but was not in the cards. I had been putting off carbon cleaning, and thermostat replacement for 2 years so I had it coming. More pictures to come, still debating on getting the injectors cleaned.
Wow. Any details on what gas you buy, driving style, track habits, oil brand? Have you done a regular tuneup with new plugs and coils?
My hope is the track flogging and many tanks of 100 octane sunoco or VP racing will blast them clean. But maybe that is wishful.
My idle water temp is 201-205 and up to 215 during a track session.
That is not bad at all. I just did a quickie carbon clean on a 2012 S4 with 120K miles that had similar carbon buildup. I used the wire brush drill attachment and chemical method instead of walnut blasting because it came off after like two to three minutes per cylinder. The FI cars don’t get nasty carbon buildup like the NA cars do.
Driving is mostly city with occasional WOT pulls, no track runs minimal spirited driving. Plugs/Coils were replaced when I bought the car at around 47k, fuel is Shell or Mobil Premium. Oil is Mobil1 0w-40, changed every 5000 miles. If i can get a borescope I’ll try to get a picture of the cyl and piston head.
Thats good to know, I will be using the chemical and brush method as well. Hopefully it goes as smooth as yours.
Here is my first stab at chemical cleaning with a nylon brush… I really wish i could get a brass brush in there but my first attempt ended up dropping a few bristles in the valve which took me a while to remove. Below is my findings on several fuel system “cleaners”. As most of us know already Seafoam is snakeoil.
Each cleaner soaked for 1 hour with 5 minutes of brushing every 20 minutes.
Berryman B12
Lucas oil “deep clean” fuel system cleaner
Techron complete fuel system cleaner, followed by seafoam.
78,000 miles and direct injection without anything to wash the valves will produce buildup. It’s just time.
It’s not a big deal to get it cleaned. You’re talking $500 or so. If you guys (3.0T) have to do it every 4 years, that’s not really a big deal.
That carbon buildup really isn’t all that bad to be honest. You should see what RS4s look like after 20,000 miles.
i used some BG direct injection cleaner which is made to clean the valves, it worked ok, but i found regular gasoline breaks it down the best even over seafoam. If i ever have to do it again i am going to do walnut blasting.
I am going to try gasoline next, to see what it does and I am going to see what the CRC GDI valve cleaner does.
Gum Cutter works pretty well too but man the fumes will mess you up so use some breathing protection.
Try heavy oven cleaner. Its built to take carbon and cooked on grease off of your oven. I have used it for years and it is the only thing built to break down carbon. Spray it on and wait 15 to 20 min it really desolves the carbon.
Check harbor fright for there motor cleaning kit they have all kinds of brushes in that kit.
Interesting, thanks for that! I’ma bit hesitant to use the metal brushes due to the bristles breaking off. Also the metal tip of the brush is not friendly to the valve.
Quick update, valve cleaning is going along nicely with B12 and CRC GDI cleaner.
For those who don’t frequent AZ here is a nice picture of my supercharger oil at 78k. I can get a more detailed picture but it looks very similar to semimetalic grey paint.
WOW I have never seen that. Thanks for showing that over here. That really looks bad for the mileage.
I didnt catch your mods. Is this on the stock pulley set up
All I have is a roc euro intake, which I had on for about 20k miles. Everything else engine wise is bone stock.
2010 DSG (June 2009 build date), 78k miles.
What are the specs on the supercharger oil? DIY link for replacement?
WOW that kind of oil with only those mods makes you really wonder whats going on with some of these doubble pulley cars.
As west mentioned I think given what you have shown it might be really helpful if you have a DIY on how to change the oil if you can share it here.
If not still thanks for shareing. That is good to know.
must have been the intake that caused it.
/audi service advisor
Its quite easy, but you need the SC off the car. I tried pulling oil out via vacuum (mityvac) but it didn’t do anything. Supposedly you can pull the oil if you have a tube that can get in the plug but I didn’t try getting something in there, I do have a syringe and tube I can try at a later date.
Oil Capacity chart is here http://www.superchargersonline.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=58
I don’t have a DIY but its straightforward to do if the SC is off. You remove the drain plug bolt and rock it side to side several times, took me about an hour total to get all the oil out. There’s pockets of oil in different sections and they burp out as you rock it.