Sorry, I missed it-but just responded
Ok great thought it might help with the adaptions your doing and what to do in what order 
Steve, would you mind sending me any cheatsheet you’ve got on doing the adpations? Since I’ve installed a low-mile 2015 PXL coded transmission in my 2013 NSD coded car it might be a good idea for me to do it too. Audi did the electronic coding for the immobilizer but that’s about it. Thanks,
hahnmgh@yahoo.com
Hey there,
I’ve just forwarded the email to you 
Hope you find it helpful
Hey Steve et al,
So my car has been in and out of the shop for a few weeks due to a sinkhole that I ran into… All four of my rims got bent (slightly) and multiple other damages occurred. What a bummer!
So I’ve got my car back and everything is fixed except that I’m waiting on new rims and tires. In the meantime the car is drivable to a certain degree…,
So I have started the transmission adaptations using the VCDS and had a couple questions for. I have noticed that my throttle response is very delayed from a dead start and the throttle response and acceleration seems less aggressive in general. Is this normal during the adaptation period? Should I be super conservative when driving? I am just wondering if I didn’t follow the right order for the adaptations that I programmed or maybe I need to reflash the tune again or will everything be back to normal one the adaptations are complete or what? Hopefully these adaptations will be finished soon.
I got your email Steve, thx !
No worries buddy. Sorry I didn’t see this message on here.
Update:
Adaptations complete-judder/engine shaking still there
Thought it might be as mine is the same after the adaptation.
It was worth a shot tho and it doesn’t hurt to do the adaptations every now and then as it keeps everything spot on !
Agreed!
Ok…so I’ve been putting together clutch packages for the R8 and Gallardo and have done a bit of research, talked to a few engineers and what I think what you’re both experiencing is what’s referred to as neutral rollover rattle and it’s common with lightweight flywheels. It happens with the clutch engaged at crawling speeds and is a combination of the firing order and the crank speed going up/down and causing the input gears to be knocked back and forth (driveline lash). I think some cars have larger tolerances hence the noise.
Interesting it’s the tolances in the gears ( gear lash ) that cause this ! You would think then there would be more than just us two that have this problem ?
The only other thing is it’s more as the clutch engages than when its fully engaged as i can crawl along with no throttle and there is no judder or noise what so ever at 1-2 mph ?
It only happens as the car moves forward from a standstill then once it’s crawling it stops completely ?
I wonder if changing the transmission would resolve this in theory and if a later transmission would be any better ?
How can you find out what code your transmission is ie a PXL or ?
Steve, your transmission code should be listed on the sticker in the boot by the battery and also (at least in N. America) affixed to the inside cover of the warranty booklet. Should have the 4 digit engine code (CFSA) followed by the 3 digit code frear Diff code and lastly the 3 digit transmission code. My rear diff is a MKW in my 2013.
Thank you my friend. I never thought of looking in either of them places, nice one
I figured as soon as I said it you’d be going, “damn, I knew that”. So what code is yours for the tranny & diff?
Can also use VCDS to scan and see the transmission code.
No idea why it’s happening on two cars and not others. I really do think it comes down to production tolerances and gear lash, especially the front open diff.
Been so busy this week but as soon as I get a minute I’ll look and let you know
Thanks for that info didn’t think about the VCDS either 
It very strange it’s so few of us have this issue but like you say maybe ours are a bit slack on tolerances !
From what your saying it’s the front open diff that’s causing this so would changing the transmission potentially solve this ?
While I have your attention any news on the PVC blanking kit yet ?
Out of interest would this help as your saying it’s the front open diff ?
Or could I replace just the front open diff in mine to another oem one ?
You’re really in uncharted territory. If you look at Jay’s installation instructions you can see the range of play in the OEM open diffs. It’s quite a bit. Just thinking you’re on the big end of things and he actually requires that you measure the gear lash before sending yours in to be rebuilt. I’d maybe reach out to them as they have more experience than I do with that. Given the fact he needs to know your car’s original lash, it’s probably returned the same.