Lets hope you dont ! Its so annoying to drive in traffic etc !!!
Ok everyone, I figured out how to get them on you tube. See links below. Thanks for your patience
General
Engine tight shot
Engine wide shot
Wheels
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That’s great Adam you will have to tell me how to do this as I’ve not got a clue how to get a video clip on here !
Definitely doesn’t sound right. Who did the install? Is that how your car sounds Steve? At a low speed like that I would definitely say Motor mounts and/or inserts have nothing to do with that sound. Found out my Carbon Fiber hood will get shipped next week then just need to have it painted and I’ll be on my way and I can start testing my LWFW, Headers, Exhuast, everything… If it happens to me like Andy’s I’ll pull the whole tranny and inspect the flywheel, hopefully it won’t happen though.
Install was performed by AutoHaus in Boulder CO…I subsequently took it to Berg Performance to see if they could figure it out…both locations couldn’t diagnose.
I believe Steve’s sounds almost identical to mine., right?
Jake from JHM responded to an email we sent today that included the videos.
Congrats on getting closer to finishing your car. Most people aren’t experiencing what we are and hopefully you won’t either.
Note: results of my service visit today: one of my control arm bushings was cracked, and covered by my extended warranty,…but I am sure that has nothing to do with this issue.
I will perform all of the suggested transmission adaptations via VCDS when I get my car back…although Steve performed all of them, more than once, and they did not solve our problem.
Hopefully Jake and his engineers will have something for us soon.
Thanks All!
Agree, it doesn’t sound mount related from those videos.
Does the noise stop once the clutch is fully engaged? Also, is the noise/vibration there between gear changes other than just pulling away in 1st gear or do those gears engage too quickly to notice the symptoms.
I know Steve is on a replacement clutch, is yours the OE unit Andy? It sounds like clutch is chattering when engaging, or the clutch isn’t getting oil.
Clutch plate direction is very important on these, difficult to explain what I mean but the clutches have grooves in the friction plate that turn clockwise or counter clockwise from inner to outer, if one of the plates was installed upside down it would cause that plate to run dry as the grooves act as an oil pump.
Probably covering old ground here but both gearboxes are fully serviced with the correct weight oil?
Small note, no big deal of course, but my name is Adam😉
Also, bear with me as I am not very mechanically inclined…working on it though…
As soon as we press the gas pedal, and the clutch seemingly engages, it goes away.
In the videos, I am not touching the gas at all. Just pressing and releasing the gas pedal. I am not sure what a clutch does in between releasing the brake and pressing the gas pedal, but it seems as if it’s like a partial engagement?
I have not noticed any juddering in between shifts, but as you pointed out, shifting happens pretty quickly. It doesn’t happen when I release the gas pedal entirely during normal
driving speeds.
I took my car in and had the 75k service performed this morning, even though I only have 60k on the car. This includes :
- S tronic transmission: Change fluid and filter element for clutch hydraulics
- Rear sport differential: Change ATF for clutch hydraulics
- Rear sport differential: Change differential oil
The same was performed at 33k right before I purchased the car 2.5 years ago. I don’t believe that any fluids were changed when they installed the lwfw unless they were necessary for the install.
I had to replace the mechatronic unit, under warranty and before I started performing mods, but I do have the OE clutch.
Thanks for wrapping your head around this…
Yes mate this is exactly the same as mine down to the noise it makes and the shaking of the engine but the car has to be hot !!
Yes judder goes once clutch engages, as you take the brake pedal off it judders then once car is creeping forward with no input from brake pedal or Gas pedal it goes away.
There are no symptoms at all between gear changes infact mine are better than ever after having new clutch plates etc.
Clutch plate direction I don’t think will be the issue as I had this with old clutches in and I’ve still got it with new clutch plates in. I only had clutch plates done to try and solve the judder it’s made it better but it’s still there ?
Gearbox on mine has correct oil and are the correct weight also I’ve changed it twice now just to flush all old oil out. Oil was nice and clean and sump pan was clean with no metal particles at all.
I’ve also like Adam have had a mech repair kit fitted with clutch 1&2 pressure seloniod’s and Gen 3 PCB’S fitted.
We are now getting a response from JHM (at last for me anyway) so lets see what they say ??
Are you sure you don’t want to be called Andy, it’s a popular name and a hit with the girls…no, ok, Adam it is then.
Steve, I guess we can eliminate the clutch plates if you’ve had it on two versions of clutch and Adam is still on his OE clutch. The noise I believe is directly connected to the clutch, it is occurring when you remove your foot from the brake which is when the clutch would start to engage to hold the car. The dual mass flywheel would usually absorb the slight chatter from the clutch but that doesn’t explain why yours are so bad.
The clutch unit is bolted into the gearbox housing so there shouldn’t be any movement in that, the clutch input shaft inserts into the flywheel by splines, it’s possible there’s some backlash on those if they aren’t a close tolerance fit. Does JHM manufacture the splines on the flywheel side or are they reused from old flywheels?
you do make me laugh Jim …sorry I mean James
That’s a good question ? I don’t know if they reuse old splines from the old flywheel or manufacture there own, you would of thought they would manufacture there own wouldnt you ? I would think so as you keep you old flywheel its not an exchange unit ?
Yeah, Andy’s are usually chick magnets, but I’m good with Adam, .
No exchange program for the flywheel, so I would assume JHM manufactures the splines (I learn the meaning of a new word or something new every time you guys post).
I am planning on performing the adaptations that Jake, and Volvofan, recommended to see if they make a difference, even though Stuart…ooops, I mean Steve, you already performed to no avail. I will keep you posted.
Wow. That must be frustrating for you both. Thanks for posting the videos.
I can hear the chatter, which I have too, and is normal… but that “juddering” is quite loud,
Is it only when the wheels are turned? And does it go away after moving faster than 5mph I.e when the clutch is fully engaged?
Yes it goes away once car is up and rolling even if you don’t touch either the brake or throttle pedal it slightly worse for me if wheels are turned but only because it’s under more load I think.
I did a few tests the other day and found if you lift off the brake and the car starts to creep with the judder and you knock it into N it goes away straight away.
The other test was to start from a stand still in D and lift off brake and allow the car to start moving on its own (not touching the pedals) at 2/3mph to see if it judders while it’s creeping, it does not the only time it judders is as you start to move away once moving it stops.
But if i slow the car down with the brake very lightly from 3mph to 2mph then allow the car to pick back up again by just lifting off brake (no throttle) you can hear the noise and a very small judder in 2nd gear ?
I never noticed that before I thought it was only first gear from a stand still. It’s also dependent on temp the hotter it gets the more you can hear and feel it.
I’ve been racking my brain trying to figure out what may cause this noise. The only thing I can think of is some sort of misalignment.
Thinking out loud here…Anyone remember the air conditioning sprague gear issues? Was happening on 2013’s when they were first released in the states. The noise was much the same. It would happen when first engaging R and backing up usually at no or low throttle. Required the engine to come out in order to fix! I need to comb through the factory service manual and see if there’s any way this could be the cause, due to an installation error.
It’s just strange that it goes away once the clutch fully engages.
And one other thing I did notice is it does seem like your engine is shaking a bit more than usual. I’ve never actually walked beside the car with the hood open like that so I could be wrong!
I think that vibration it the clutch juddering as it’s engaging.
Steve, Adam, when you go between D and N or D and P on the shifter, is there a noticeable clunk or shunt from the gearbox/engine?
Have you performed the distance calibration on the clutch as well as the adaptation? Curious if it’s got the bite point confused which is causing chatter on the clutch plates?
No there is no clunk or bang from D to N to P at all I did have this issue but got a mech repair kit from Audi and this solved that issue.
I have also performed the distance calibration quite a few times over the last few months.
It does seem be when the clutch is engaging but there does not seem to be a reason why it’s happing as car runs perfect and there are no DTC’S on the ECU/ TCU. I’ve also performed every adaptation and calibration there is ??
I haven’t had the clink or bang issue going from D to N or D to P either.
I am currently performing all of the adaptations, although I know that you, Steve, have already performed with no luck, but…
Yes that correct I’ve done all adaptations twice now with no joy I’m afraid.
@adaydreams did you get my email I sent you ? I sent it to your gmail account .