It’s more for giving the air that entered the trapezoid grill a place to exit quickly, at speed. Ultimately I want to move more air past the heat exchangers.
Remove the weather stripping above the firewall - that’ll be another outlet.
IMO you are better off getting someone to cut up the hood rather than play with these vents. These vents will never work as well as a properly vented hood. Check this out:
You want to vent from the rad? This is venting from the rad/heat exchangers. Though admittedly, you are constrained in how the car is packaged. But there are some ways around it.
The Mercedes vent is really just a screen, to give the channel a finished look. If you look at the new Porsche models the bottom of the hood is a vent just like this.
One does not simply add a carbon hood. If it was $10,000 it would work. But the cheap plastic ones from Alibaba are not suitable for attaching the OEM latch. It would come off the car at 130 MPH. You’d need to devise a whole new pin and anchor system. Might as well just tie nylon from a sail on the engine bay if you’re going that far with weight.
huh? no carbon hood uses the stock latch, you use aerocatch hood pins, the latch is fairly flush with the hood. They are less than 100 for a set. You do not need an expensive carbon/carbon hood a carbon/fiberglass hood is just fine and one I/m sure can be had with the required vents.
The alibaba units I looked at for the B8 were just a panel, no latches or anchors. Presumably you are supposed to transfer your OE latches. Anyway I’m not going that route.
A carbon carbon hood would be bad ass because it would be strong enough to take an OE latch. But the mold alone would cost over $100k.
so wrong, real race cars don’t use stock latches. The mold doesn’t change that the fact that stock latches aren’t designed for so little weight with that light of a hood you want multiple latches anyway, hell you could make you old mold with fiberglass for a few hundred bucks of materials. Doesn’t matter if you don’t do it, but please have the facts, It doesn’t cost 100k to make a mold, and the mold doesn’t dictate its overall strength. That gets dictated may by the weave and material that the body panel is ultimately constructed from
You need to cut holes in the hold for the aero catch hood pins or any other hood pins. Depending on the hood they may have or may not have the holes for the stock latch mounts. Doesn’t really matter a couple of aero catch hood pins and you are good to go
This. Not sure why hood pins are an issue, West. It’s standard fare for any lightweight hood.
And dropping weight on the nose of the car is going to be magical on this platform. The factory hood is heavy as hell. You will see a change in weight distribution with just a hood change.
You should not rely on the factory latch with a light weight hood – you are right. With a light weight hood, the only purpose the factory latch serves is for security (so no one can randomly pop ur hood). The pins are what is doing the real work holding down the hood. You can get some fancy aero hood latches like redwagon says.
West, not sure where you come up with some of this stuff. There are several options for CF/FG hoods for the B8 S4. While none are dry CF or whatever, they will save you a few pounds and keep you from hacking up your stock hood (and they’ll be easier to hack up). If installed properly, they would be perfectly safe; with hood pins, maybe even more so than the stock hood at a constant 130 mph.
While something from someone like Seibon is probably not much higher quality than the generic stuff out of China, it’s readily available in the US, and at least comes from a reputable company.
If I cared about the weight I would just take the hood off at a track day. But it’s not bothering me. Like I said, I’d only do the hood if it was both stronger and lighter so it would have to be carbon/carbon. I’ll stick with my strong hood.
Is the OE aluminum or steel? I’d assume aluminum in the B8.