You need to cut holes in the hold for the aero catch hood pins or any other hood pins. Depending on the hood they may have or may not have the holes for the stock latch mounts. Doesn’t really matter a couple of aero catch hood pins and you are good to go
This. Not sure why hood pins are an issue, West. It’s standard fare for any lightweight hood.
And dropping weight on the nose of the car is going to be magical on this platform. The factory hood is heavy as hell. You will see a change in weight distribution with just a hood change.
You should not rely on the factory latch with a light weight hood – you are right. With a light weight hood, the only purpose the factory latch serves is for security (so no one can randomly pop ur hood). The pins are what is doing the real work holding down the hood. You can get some fancy aero hood latches like redwagon says.
West, not sure where you come up with some of this stuff. There are several options for CF/FG hoods for the B8 S4. While none are dry CF or whatever, they will save you a few pounds and keep you from hacking up your stock hood (and they’ll be easier to hack up). If installed properly, they would be perfectly safe; with hood pins, maybe even more so than the stock hood at a constant 130 mph.
While something from someone like Seibon is probably not much higher quality than the generic stuff out of China, it’s readily available in the US, and at least comes from a reputable company.
If I cared about the weight I would just take the hood off at a track day. But it’s not bothering me. Like I said, I’d only do the hood if it was both stronger and lighter so it would have to be carbon/carbon. I’ll stick with my strong hood.
Is the OE aluminum or steel? I’d assume aluminum in the B8.
Yup the B8 is all steel panels. The only alloy is in the suspension.
West, regarding a strong hod - you’d be right that a cf hood would not be as strong as the factory hood. Though I am not certain the strength matters, as you know, the hood isn’t structural. If you’re after time savings and optimizing the car, I don’t see a reason not to get a vented CF hood. Not only are you reducing front end lift, but you are reducing weight on the nose of the B8–which is a problem on this car.
For fun, remove the hood strut and lift the hood. You’ll be appalled at how heavy it is. I would not be surprised if it’s over 45lbs. A CF one is going to weigh half that–that’s weight over the top of your motor and at the very front of the car. Your CG will improve with the hood change too (albeit minimally–but it will improve nonetheless).
If you are going to cut up the stock hood and optimize it for track, ideally you cut out the hood skeleton to save weight, then you have more freedom in how you cut up the hood for venting (otherwise you are at the mercy of the little areas inbetween the hood skeleton–which is severely limiting). If you do this, your factory hood would become all flexy and will require hood pins anyways. BUT if you do remove the skeleton, you will find that the entire back of the hood can vent air. The space between the firewall and hood (when skeleton and weather stripping is removed) is over 1 inch in height across the entire width of the hood (!!!). That alone is going to help huge with reducing lift.
You should contact brianrs4 (i think thats his name) he is on the forum here. He works with carbon fiber and makes all kinds of cool shit. Im sure he could make you a hood for cheaper than 10 grand. if you serious about it i have his phone number and will text him for you.
Kind of like buying a new GT4. It’d be faster in the United States if you took the wing off. Doesn’t have enough power to get to and maintain a speed where it makes sense - all it does is drag. I know this at the end of the thought exercise that was this thread.
It’s for Nurburing runs. You have to have sustained speeds over 200 km/h. That’s the peak speed at most US big boy tracks and you’re only in it for a fractional second.