This is probably the most practical thing you could do with a B8:
1/ slice open fender behind front wheels
2/ swan neck APR GT-250 (0 degree angle of attack) mounted to chassis
Not sure if you’d want to go 61" or 67" span on the wing.
http://photos.motoiq.com/MotoIQ/Tech/Yost-Autosport-YAE92-M3/i-jgzR6Qr/0/L/photo_10-L.jpg
http://photos.motoiq.com/MotoIQ/Tech/Yost-Autosport-YAE92-M3/i-KVx7SqX/0/L/photo_9-L.jpg
The car will drive like absolute poo with a real rear wing and no front aero 
Tons of threads on this if you go to SCCA forums and the like.
If you are serious about this, take the car to a race shop and get them to fab up some real front aero too.
Be mindful that with these additions, the car is no longer streetable.
Check out motoiq.com and read up on the time attack cars they get to check out. They get up close and personal and you can see the sort of things they do to deal with aero.
Your suspension setup goes completely out the window with the introduction of aero.
How is it different than having 2 people in the back seats and an OEM battery/anchor? It’s 43 pounds of downforce at 80 MPH (cornering speed), on a 3 foot lever attached as close as possible to the rear wheels. I started at 43.9% rear weight bias and now I’m at 41.3% rear weight bias.
I’m already running the highest rear spring rate of any B8. Not sure what you mean by throwing it all out the window. Maybe just modify the line a bit to allow for not braking as hard when entering a turn.
http://aprperformance.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/gt-250_cfd_01.png
Ok buy the wing then XD
Comparing aero to weight is not the same thing. You know this. It’s just sorta strange following your modification path. First you want staggered tires for more front grip, but we see in your vids that you aren’t maximizing what’s available now. Then you want a rear wing…but again, there’s time left on the table as is and so many possibilities to refine what you had. I bet if I was in socal and sat with you on a track day, we could hammer out some setting changes and drop 1.5 sec on your lap times. There’s a lot of opportunity with your current setup based on how you are driving the car. That in car vid u posted highlighted much of that.
So you think my car is faster than a GT4? The GT4 barely scrapes under 1:40 with a pro driver at Laguna. I believe I can find another 1.5 seconds for sure as it is setup and get into 1:42.xx. And I’ll have an opportunity to work at that next month.
I think you’re being a bit heavy handed in the judgement. I’m driving the piss out of it and the only thing that is pulling away from me is the Z06 and GT3/Turbo.
I’m backing off on the reverse stagger idea. The only wheel upgrade I’d do is a BBS FI-R on all 4 wheels with Trofeo R 265/35.
Objectively, I pulled over 100 pounds out of the back of the car and I don’t see an issue with adjustable aero. I can do 4 laps in a row within 0.3 second of each other. So playing with a wing is an interesting way to tune. It’d be a fun way for me to tinker.
Don’t take it the wrong way. Not saying u can’t drive. But let’s all recognize that we all leave time on the table, and I can plainly see a lot of opportunity from your vid. You are consistent–that’s great and it means when u find those time improvements u can consistently deliver those laps.
You do this funny steering wiggle thing mid corner which IMO, given the amount of correction u are doing, it’s unnecessary and u are better off using the throttle to keep the weight transitioned rearward (read: more grip on the back tires). And u brake so much for some corners that you are getting back on the gas hard way before the apex–even on corners that do not go downhill… That’s definitely costing u time. U know the track and the lines. I do not doubt it. I have no critique for the lines u take. But on a driver input level, there is definitely time left on the table. If the car is squirmy, tire pressures can be adjusted. If pressures are perfect, then rebound can be adjusted. But I say before adjusting anything,address the braking thing first. Focus on those corners. I can rewatch the vid and call out the corners where this occurs if it helps.
I should also mention spec miatas can do sub 1:40 at Laguna seca. I don’t really care what cars one is passing around a track. It’s the nut behind the wheel that counts.
Spec Miata can do sub 1:50. Barely.
You have to realize I drove my S4 faster around Laguna than Pobst drove the RS5. We’re splitting hairs at this point.
I’d need a brace across the trunk for the swan arms to attach to.
http://i66.tinypic.com/rc7vix.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160311/dfff08847013fd35b1ef55c8ec0d3832.jpg
Actually, it seems like it should go to a bar directly over these bolts.
The wing is 71" wide. The car is 69" wide at the wheel edges and 71" wide at the door handles. It’s 77" wide at the mirrors.
The swan arm height has to be 30" to join up with a box in the trunk and come to the roof line.
OK, swan neck is not necessary. I am told by my fabricator that the trunk on this car will support the wing with some modification and the removal of some rubber joints.
The only requirement is that it is a “2D” wing, meaning the wing’s profile needs to be uniform.
The front of the car is a full 700 pounds heavier than the rear of the car. I feel like that gives me a lot of room to play in the rear.
How much of this do you think is legitimately going to be functional vs looks? I might have missed before, but is this a dedicated race car at this point? why did you keep the rear seat if you were going to cage it?
At this point it looks like your’e trying to make your car look like a DTM car.
http://www.nobraking.com/wp-content/gallery/audi-rs5-dtm/audi_motorsport-140304-0880.jpg
Nice helmet, I tried a ST4 and it was really tight and not very comfortable compared to a bell or a Arai but they do look cool.
We’ll know exactly what is does. I can do 5 laps in a row at Laguna at 1:44.xy. We’ll add the wing and I’ll run the laps again. Adjust angle of attack until laps are faster.
Yes that would be the best way
Suspension changes to compensate for rear wing:
Body measurements. The trunk lid is 48" wide. The car is 71" wide at the wheels. The trunk slopes down at -7.5 degrees. A proper wing height is probably 13" at the bottom, and 14" at the top. The trunk probably has up to 10" of room for a pedestal mount.
DTM FTMFW!