Aluthman's Intro and Build thread

B7 A4
#261

Did some more testing. Got it nice and warmed up and then did another dry test followed by a test with 1 tsp oil. This time I held the throttle over while cranking. I missed that part of the procedure last time. Either way, the results don’t look good. It looks like a tear down and re-ring is in my future. I’ll likely change pistons at that point also.

Cyl #1 dry

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsf2487ecd.jpg

Cyl #1 wet

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps5a3e1031.jpg

Cyl #2 dry

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps59e4fe7d.jpg

Cyl #2 wet

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps76f5e114.jpg

Cyl #3 dry

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsed518295.jpg

Cyl #3 wet

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps7be468ad.jpg

Cyl #4 dry

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps332b136c.jpg

Cyl #4 wet

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpse6443326.jpg

#262

Well after more research and some calculations, My results are still inconclusive. I forgot to account for the oil i added to the cylinder. A teaspoon is like 4.9 cc, so that alone will cause CR to jump by almost a full point, regardless of ring condition. Maybe I’m still good. I need to do a leakdown test to find out.

#263

Your dry reading across all the cylinders is consistent. I would prop open the throttle vs using the throttle.

You lowered the compression so you would expect lower total compression. If you were building a big boost motor I would think the ring end gap should be looser. One thing you can check is put a gauge in the block section of the pcv and measure positive pressure if any. You can also leak it down but when you do the compression check you should get a good idea on that by the jump in pressure each cycle.

#264

I’m going to swap valve covers again and maybe reinstall my factory pcv to see if oil consumption goes down.

#265

Still chasing this oil consumption problem. New valve cover did nothing. Replaced oil drain line because I thought maybe old one was clogged. Nope, clean as a whistle. I’m pretty sure the turbo needs rebuilt at this point, but I did a leakdown test to get concrete data on the piston rings. Here’s what I got:

Started off by checking the error between the gauges. I didn’t want any differences between gauges to mess with the results. I have a 3 psi error between gauges.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/29d25fb9-e34f-48a6-8467-3800a66c88f5_zpssnjs7jyf.jpg

Cyl. #1 82+3/90=0.944 (5.6% leakage)

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsfyfz5lgl.jpg

Cyl. #2 82+3/89=0.955 (4.5% leakage)

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps3j1qtxky.jpg

Cyl. #3 83+3/89=0.966 (3.6% leakage)

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps9amokodk.jpg

Cyl. #4 84+3/90=0.966 (3.6% leakage)

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpskxlxkbor.jpg

Looks ok to me I guess, but this is the first time I’ve done a leakdown test. Comments?

#266

Honestly man those are awesome results. If you have oil consumption how bad is it. When you did the rebuild you said the gaps were the same on all the rings even the oil control ring.

Your pcv system is set to a catch can right.

#267

I’m losing a quart every 500 miles at this point. It was 1200 miles, then 700, now 500. Since the problem is getting worse, I’m thinking turbo over PCV. My PCV is currently a BSH pcv revamp kit. I’m going to put my catch can back on and see if that makes a difference before I do anything with the turbo. The turbo is still working great with no lost boost or strange noises.

#268

Did you ever get a chance to change that out and see if anything changed.

#269

Put catch can back on with no change in consumption. I have a turbo rebuild kit standing by.

#270

Our stage 3 will be out soon ;D

#271

You’ve been saying that for like a year! Besides, I want an EFR.

#272

you hipster!

#273

Yep, I’m gonna be drinking PBR when I weld up the manifold that no one else seems to want to make. Full-Race offers a T4 twin scroll for the B6 1.8T but not the 2.0 in the B7. :frowning:

#274

LOL!!

Have you though about buying the 1.8 manifold, cutting off the head flange and welding on the 2.0T flange? We can get you that flange…

Also assuming the ports are the same length apart

#275

I had considered doing exactly that, but no one could verify the port spacing. Full Race had no idea and they said they had no plans to make a B7 2.0 version. I think I even posted on AZ asking for info, but no one responded. You could always measure the exhaust gasket for each for me if that’s something you guys stock… I have a spare 2.0T sitting in my basement right now, so I just need the 1.8T measurements.

#276

I will check in the parts department if we have them!

#277

nope=[

https://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/gasket-cylinder-head-to-exhaust-manifold-victor-reinz-for-b5-b6-a4-18t-p-2598.html

We sell them for dirt cheap though, so if you order it we can ship it to you within a day or so!

#278

At this point, I’m too invested in making my own manifold anyway. It would blow monkey nuts if I cut apart a $1400 manifold and it still wouldn’t work. I’ve got most of what I need to start the fab process on an FSI twin scroll manifold, I just need the turbo in hand to get the placement right.

#279

Yeah good point. Plus you will have the satisfaction of a self built mani.

#280

Rebuilt the K0R today in the hopes that it was the cause of my oil issue. It didn’t show any significant signs of needing work though. I initially bought the wrong rebuild kit, so the car sat in the garage for 4 days waiting on the correct one to show up.

This is where I started after the correct rebuild kit came in the mail.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpskt4x76iq.jpg

Undo nut (reverse threaded) and pry off compressor wheel with screwdrivers.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsts29ce5k.jpg

This little guy will push out with your thumb.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps9b5lkoli.jpg


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsv01dviso.jpg

Pulled the guts out.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpseuqxycv9.jpg

Pry off this little ring. I used my snap ring pliers and a small screwdriver. Then I spent some time cleaning gunk off the shaft and wheel, being careful to avoid scratching the bearing surface.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpssl5h5fpz.jpg

Put new guts back in.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps1m44d6jz.jpg

Put shaft and turbine wheel back in and remount compressor wheel and backing plate. I dripped some oil down into the bearing to help things slide in. This may require a few taps of a dead blow hammer to seat the new c-clip you put on the shaft. Reattach the CHRA to the exhaust housing. I had to use a wire wheel on my drill to clean the housing enough to get them to slide together easily.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsuasvifg5.jpg

Reattach compressor housing.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsvu82ipyw.jpg

Still need to put it back on the car and try it out. Hopefully by tomorrow night it will be running again. I didn’t bother balancing it, I just marked the orientation of the parts and put them back together as close to that as I could. I’ll probably send it off to get balanced when I upgrade turbos so I can sell it.