I’m duly impressed. This is going to help loose weight in a major way. My latest video!
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One more on the list of informative and fun videos.
And if you need a lightweight lithium ion battery, you know who to reach out to!
These batteries are insanely light, I laughed out loud when I pulled my 60A battery from the box this morning. I took it to my motorsport workshop and handed the box to the guys, they pulled the battery out and asked if it didn’t have anything inside it.
I got the largest battery in the range and it still weighed less then the tiny motorsport battery they have in their race car.
Fitting was as straight forward as you see in the video, it just simply bolts in, no coding required and the car started on the first crank.
So can you feel the difference, well obviously I couldn’t feel any hair raising difference in voltage but you know the difference you feel between half a tank and a quarter tank of gas where the car feels more alive as it gets lighter, well I had that feeling, it felt more alive.
If you’re a guy who’s into improving how this German tank handles then this battery should be on your shopping list.
Wow that is a good chunk of weight! Just a thought, one of the reason Audi put the battery in the back is weight distribution so this would tip the balance further to the front as it’s not a small difference, wonder if it’s anything you can feel in the handling . Or the fact of the pros of just loosing weight no matter is a more tangible?
This is a good question as 50/50 weight distribution is what your aim is on any car you want to handle well and what any company’s goal is on sports cars they produce ! It maybe does not matter if your looking for straight line speed like up the strip as then the lighter you are the better, but are you doing more harm than good by ripping out rear seats and getting lighter battery’s if your not going to reduce the weight at the front of the car as well ?
Well sure, I think it’s a valid consideration but 45 pounds is basically like running on an empty tank. Does your car feel like it doesn’t handle when you don’t have much gas in the tank?
I think once you start getting up into the 200 pound range (titanium exhaust, rear seat removal, battery, and a few other weight loss measures at the back) then it may be an issue.
With that said, the RS5 does have an active stability control system and active sport differential. It can compensate.
Think of it this way…we’re ALREADY a 911 in reverse. Seriously. the ENTIRE engine sits in front of the axles. And it is still an amazingly agile, corner cutting car.
Would it be best to remove weight from the front and rear? Absolutely. A carbon hood looks like it’ll take off 50 pounds from the front, up high too. Switch to carbon front rotors and there’s more weight up front there too. Lightweight seats…a bit front biased.
Doing the battery isn’t going to suddenly make your car handle horribly. You’ll notice no difference in handling. But I do consider it PART of a total weight loss strategy.
Can we move the radiator to the back? 
One reason they put it in the back was battery life. One of the major reasons why a properly cared for battery lasts so long in the RS5 is due to the active battery management and the fact it’s not in a hot engine bay. Nothing kills lead acid batteries quicker than heat.
Yes good points and there wasn’t much room left up front anyway for it 
Are you using the H7/94R Lithium or the T6/L2? The antigravity site comes up with the H7, both are rated at 40Ah.
I’m using the 40Ah H6/48R. It’s slightly smaller in dimension than the H7 but still bolts right in. So you gain a bit of space down there too if you want to do something with air suspension or stereo equipment.
Either one works, the H7 is just the exact same case size as OEM. Both can be had in 40Ah or 60Ah.
So we’re looking for a bit of help from Antigravity battery owners who also have a VCDS. Some owners are experiencing an over voltage situation where the car can go so far as to shut down. I went for months and months with no issue and had a big one on Tuesday. Cycling the ignition off and back on resets everything and the car runs as normal.
I know of at least three other owners who have experienced this problem and I’d like to get the “hive” together on this one to solve it once and for all.
We have another member who’s composed a list of various VAG OEM battery fitments in different sizes (amp hours), battery type (flooded, AGM, etc…) and cold cranking amps. We’re experimenting with those different codes to see if one is more compatible than another.
To further confuse everyone, there are a number of owners who have zero issues and use their cars hard (on track even). So it’s sort of a mystery as to what the root cause of this is.
I know I have several codes when I do a full scan. My first theory is if there’s anything “upsetting” the CAN-Bus, it can cause issues. I currently have a code for seat back out of range adjustment (never been able to get rid of that one!), a HVAC flap code (that I induced and just haven’t run through adaptation to remove) and an MMI code as I used to have it set up where I could use my phone as a mobile hot spot with the MMI. Now that I have CarPlay, that isn’t needed.
The first time I had an issue, I had an intermittent headlight bulb at the same time. I replaced the bulb and continued to drive along without any issue until yesterday. I had tried a different BEM code this time around to see if it would potentially change the charge routine and work for others with issues. I’ve now changed it again to an AGM-type battery, approximately 50Ah.
The following was procured and collected by VolvoFan and I’m reposting with his permission. These are a list of different battery codes (not the full BEM) and what they mean in terms of amp hours, size and battery type. I changed my code to a “CC” this evening but probably should have tried the CB. The “c” portion means it’s an absorbed glass mat (AGM) battery, which, according to Antigravity, comes closest in terms of the recharging logistics of a lithium ion battery. So there’s “logic” to the coding and they’re not random letters.
All part numbers are 000915105** where the ** is filled in by the two letters below.
2 LTRS AMP HRS DIN AMPS TYPE (I think?)
DB 44 220 Conv
BB or DC 51 280 Conv
CB 58 340 AGM
EB 59 320 EFB
AC or DD 60 280 Conv
AD or DE 61 330 Conv
CC 68 380 AGM
DF 70 340 Conv
FC 70 420 EFB+
AE AF or DG 72 380 Conv
CD 75 420 AGM
ED 79 420 EFB
AG or DH 80 380 Conv
AJ or DJ 85 450 Conv
CE 92 520 AGM
EE 93 520 EFB
AH or DK 95 450 Conv
CF 105 580 AGM
AK or DL 110 520 Conv
DM 115 600 Conv
Batter vendors and their associated code:
5DO = JFF/Boading
TU3 = Exide
MLA = Moll
JCB = JCI/JCB
VA0 (or VAO) = Varta
UM5 = Akuma
BA2 = Banner
So VolvoFan used this code with his battery:
000915105EB VA0 081120AGRA
The first 11 digits are the battery type identifier. In that set, the last two tell us the “type” as in amp hours and whether it’s a flooded, agm or conventional. The middle three are the manufacturer and the last set of digits are just “made up” using the date he installed the battery and AGRA representing Antigravity.
I was using the same code but with the “EB” switched out to CB. I tried using DB as the 44ah is close to the Antigravity’s 40AH but the VCDS would not take it.
I’ve now switched it to CC to see if coding it as an AGM battery will help.
One theory I have is that the regenerative braking is causing an issue. Audi’s alternators have something where they use the engine braking to load up the alternator and charge the battery instead of loading the engine under acceleration. I’m finding my voltage creeping up as I brake and my incident happened after braking and then accelerating rapidly.
What I have planned next is for anyone who has a VCDS to log certain parameters while driving and we can compare numbers as well as BEM codes.
If we have any electrical engineers, I’d love to hear your thoughts on possible causes to the over voltage issue as well as possible remedies to the situation.
When I have a bit of time this weekend and next week, I’m going to list which electrical parameters I’d like logged by everyone who participates.
Any ideas greatly appreciated.
I would say most instances of my overvoltage faults occurred during the same conditions you mention, braking then on to mostly aggressive accelerations. I think that is a start. Wonder if the system can be recoded? Is that the convenience module that controls the charging?
I don’t think it’s in the convenience module, you’d log in the main electrical system module and the can bus but I’m going to dig into it and see if I can log the requested and actual alternator output and a few other variables to see what’s connected to what and try to determine where the problem is occurring. Going to try and enlist the help of the Ross Tech guys too.
I don’t want to complicate this too much and you might have said something about this already… But on the 5.2 S6 there is a battery adaption that you have to do when you install a new battery. Some cars have no issues others have issues if you don’t do the adaption. The over voltage seems odd because the battery just receives voltage when the car is running. I know the battery is constantly giving feedback to the computer but it would be interesting to see what voltage is causing to give the over voltage code.
**I am not an electrical engineer. The possible easy fix: Can you put the battery in extended life mode. In order for there to be spare capacity (capacitance?) when recuperation kicks in?
A standard battery charges faster with a lower state of charge, so I figure if it kept below for example 60 % it will be more likely to be able to take the charge. To my knowledge the same holds for EVs. So better trick tell the ECU the true Ah than tell it the battery has more.
The charging is active during coasting as well, but I figure no sudden spike then.
Try switching off the car more often at red lights, as the technology was developed for start-stop cars mainly (I believe).
Any thoughts or suggestions are totally welcome! Not sure what years you’re referring to but I think Audi has changed the “logic” with their battery management system. Now it’s just code in and forget with the actual code telling the system what the amp hours, cca, and type of battery is being installed. It does remember up to three batteries you’ve installed in the past too.
But I’ll look into that and see if there’s some way to run adaptation on it.
The voltage isn’t coming, I believe, from the battery end, but from the alternator end of things. The lithium ion batteries can charge and discharge far more rapidly and they have less than half the internal resistance of a normal lead acid/agm type battery. That’s why a small 40Ah battery can crank over the RS5’s motor with such authority. There’s no difference in the cranking/starting between the Antigravity and my old 110Ah battery. In fact it probably turns over a hair more quickly.
^^^typed that up this morning but forgot to hit send. Busy day.
Anyway…I literally stumbled across an interesting bit of information. There is a product called RS Nav which is an Android Auto/Carplay interface for those who don’t know. It’s a stand alone device which interfaces with the MMI.
On later model RS Nav’s, they have something called “dual clutch support” in their setup menu. If you have a dual clutch-equipped Audi, and don’t check that box, it can cause the car to have almost the exact same issues as what’s being seen with the AG batteries. Dash lights up with multiple warnings.
I am trying to find the root cause of the RS Nav issues and what exactly checking that box does to change the electrical behavior and keep the errors at bay. Just thought the parallels were too close to be a coincidence. They somehow have to be related and it might be a coding issue.
I have an older RS Nav installed and Greyson had one in his car as well. With that said, Greyson’s car ran fine with the RS Nav installed and a normal battery. There’s a change in the later version RS Nav which must be causing the issue.
Just to clarify, I was thinking the ECU would think the battery was half full when the lithium ion battery is in fact at >80 %. At that charge the rate of charging accepted by a typical li ion battery would be limited to less than what the alternator produces at hard braking (to extend the life of the battery). I am almost sure it is using voltage difference to determine the state if charge though, so it does not play in.
Do have an error log code programmed on the battery?
Sort of a side note, did anyone manage to enable the battery screen on the MMI using the green screen?