So we’re looking for a bit of help from Antigravity battery owners who also have a VCDS. Some owners are experiencing an over voltage situation where the car can go so far as to shut down. I went for months and months with no issue and had a big one on Tuesday. Cycling the ignition off and back on resets everything and the car runs as normal.
I know of at least three other owners who have experienced this problem and I’d like to get the “hive” together on this one to solve it once and for all.
We have another member who’s composed a list of various VAG OEM battery fitments in different sizes (amp hours), battery type (flooded, AGM, etc…) and cold cranking amps. We’re experimenting with those different codes to see if one is more compatible than another.
To further confuse everyone, there are a number of owners who have zero issues and use their cars hard (on track even). So it’s sort of a mystery as to what the root cause of this is.
I know I have several codes when I do a full scan. My first theory is if there’s anything “upsetting” the CAN-Bus, it can cause issues. I currently have a code for seat back out of range adjustment (never been able to get rid of that one!), a HVAC flap code (that I induced and just haven’t run through adaptation to remove) and an MMI code as I used to have it set up where I could use my phone as a mobile hot spot with the MMI. Now that I have CarPlay, that isn’t needed.
The first time I had an issue, I had an intermittent headlight bulb at the same time. I replaced the bulb and continued to drive along without any issue until yesterday. I had tried a different BEM code this time around to see if it would potentially change the charge routine and work for others with issues. I’ve now changed it again to an AGM-type battery, approximately 50Ah.
The following was procured and collected by VolvoFan and I’m reposting with his permission. These are a list of different battery codes (not the full BEM) and what they mean in terms of amp hours, size and battery type. I changed my code to a “CC” this evening but probably should have tried the CB. The “c” portion means it’s an absorbed glass mat (AGM) battery, which, according to Antigravity, comes closest in terms of the recharging logistics of a lithium ion battery. So there’s “logic” to the coding and they’re not random letters.
All part numbers are 000915105** where the ** is filled in by the two letters below.
2 LTRS AMP HRS DIN AMPS TYPE (I think?)
DB 44 220 Conv
BB or DC 51 280 Conv
CB 58 340 AGM
EB 59 320 EFB
AC or DD 60 280 Conv
AD or DE 61 330 Conv
CC 68 380 AGM
DF 70 340 Conv
FC 70 420 EFB+
AE AF or DG 72 380 Conv
CD 75 420 AGM
ED 79 420 EFB
AG or DH 80 380 Conv
AJ or DJ 85 450 Conv
CE 92 520 AGM
EE 93 520 EFB
AH or DK 95 450 Conv
CF 105 580 AGM
AK or DL 110 520 Conv
DM 115 600 Conv
Batter vendors and their associated code:
5DO = JFF/Boading
TU3 = Exide
MLA = Moll
JCB = JCI/JCB
VA0 (or VAO) = Varta
UM5 = Akuma
BA2 = Banner
So VolvoFan used this code with his battery:
000915105EB VA0 081120AGRA
The first 11 digits are the battery type identifier. In that set, the last two tell us the “type” as in amp hours and whether it’s a flooded, agm or conventional. The middle three are the manufacturer and the last set of digits are just “made up” using the date he installed the battery and AGRA representing Antigravity.
I was using the same code but with the “EB” switched out to CB. I tried using DB as the 44ah is close to the Antigravity’s 40AH but the VCDS would not take it.
I’ve now switched it to CC to see if coding it as an AGM battery will help.
One theory I have is that the regenerative braking is causing an issue. Audi’s alternators have something where they use the engine braking to load up the alternator and charge the battery instead of loading the engine under acceleration. I’m finding my voltage creeping up as I brake and my incident happened after braking and then accelerating rapidly.
What I have planned next is for anyone who has a VCDS to log certain parameters while driving and we can compare numbers as well as BEM codes.
If we have any electrical engineers, I’d love to hear your thoughts on possible causes to the over voltage issue as well as possible remedies to the situation.
When I have a bit of time this weekend and next week, I’m going to list which electrical parameters I’d like logged by everyone who participates.
Any ideas greatly appreciated.