Audi s6 v10 Electrical diagnosis

Hey guys this is a continuation from the topic engine drop but we are now in the electrical phase which of course is complete hell.

To recap on this situation I am getting a cooling fan 1 code with fan staying on after car is off and killing the battery and I’m getting open circuit for 02 sensor B3 S2 and B4 S2. Sometimes I notice one of the 02 sensors sometimes will work or will show slow response. When it’s working the car will barely shake to where you really won’t notice it but when that one isn’t working the car will have a shake that is a bit notice because you know both of them aren’t working.

Before then when I first got the car it would randomly cut off on me and would do either a esp fault or a brake fault which has been happening since last summer when I got the car. I recently discovered by me getting very frustrated when the car was cutting off crazy and leaving me stranded and when the car cooled down it would run for some time and do same thing and also the relay was so hot it burned my hand when I checked them.

After that I started checking all the relays by changing them but then I got to relays that was in the driver’s compartment and first thing I see is the steering rack piece is rusted I’m not sure if it’s supposed to be like that but it’s been like that for a long time obviously. I assume this was probably from where car got flooded on the vehicle history. Of course changing them worked.

So now here we are with 02 and cooling fan 1 code and almost forgot I have got a code with something for thermostat that’s electrical but the car doesn’t overheat. So recently since that cooling fan 1 code the relay started burning out for the engine computer with now showing that thermostat code is latest one that appeared.

The relay that is burning out is 7.1 and 7.2 they are a separate relay I believe they work off of each other which one is horn and one is the engine computer

Once that relay for computer burns out the car runs bad

These relays are under the dash on the driver side correct?

Yes and there’s one in the engine bay I forgot to mention

The one in engine bay was why the car kept cutting off on me at random times

Do you have the physical in car pictures of these. Also isn’t there a fuse for the fan as well?

I don’t have a physical pictures you will have to wait until I get home next week but there is a fuse for the fan in the engine bay next to those relays and I pull that fuse every time I turn the car off so the fans don’t stay on and kill the battery

I know after beating on mine the fans stay on and run the electric pump to circulate water. Wonder if you have a short on your CTS by chance? VCDS is able to test this in an output test

I do remember I was getting codes for circulation pump and I tested it and it was working. The code for it haven’t showed again after I started changing relays

Look at all the coolant temp sensors and confirm they are working correctly /outputting correctly. May be a fan control module

I believe it is the fan control module I have already ordered another fan with 112k miles on it. Hopefully it’s that I do have a feeling it is because I saw that code before for a while before it started staying on and draining the battery

Yep it was that the car is working now

And also the wire to the thermostat broke and I replaced it

The can control module was bad?

It was all I did was change the fans and now it’s fine

Great news!

Ed

Sweet. Glad to hear your getting sorted

Yes finally the only thing that keeps burning out is the horn relay so I’m going to try changing the horn next

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Alright guys new problem the oil level is saying minimum but the oil is at max on the car. Would that be the level sensor or is there some sort of fuse or something stupid lol