Those lists are so bad. Those setup tips are only valid for specific parts of the corner under specific driving conditions (steady state vs on power vs off power vs on brake vs coasting etc).
It’s a good baseline for experimentation, but do not refer to it as a tuning Bible by any means. They can be very misleading
It’s more thought provoking than anything. It makes you consider the equivalency of various tuning parameters. Of course the efficacy of any given adjustment will vary by platform. That is the tricky part.
-3.2 was too much camber. -2.5 is the spot.
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I’m changing the rear spring from a 650 lb to an 800 lb. It’s about 23% stiffer. The person who built the kit for me gave me an option of a 750 rear spring when I ordered. With the wing, I think I need 800. Despite the car being 0.75" higher in the rear, it sinks at least an inch at high speed.
Got some used springs from a racecar. Fun fact about steel springs - they don’t wear out.
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what race car?
No clue. Probably a Porsche or Aston Martin, as that shop specializes in those.
I’m probably past the point where I should have switched to slicks for the track. Might go with Hoosier R7 (265) on BBS CH-R (19") in the future. Have to find a good portable jack, some wheel studs, etc.
The 800 pound rear spring, plus the wing, and 500 pound front spring is a great combination. The car is really sure footed. A crazy amount of mechanical grip, actually. The weakest part of the car now is tires. Thinking of trying the RE-71A. I know they’ll only last 6 track days.
Great to hear. What spring rate is the stock spring.
Like 200 progressive.
Also, I’m going to toe out the front wheels to -1/16 total. Somehow I lost that setting. And pair it up with RE-71R tires this time, just to try something different. I think they are 3-4 pounds heavier per tire, about $100 cheaper, and allegedly have 2/3 the track life. I usually run the Michelin Cup2.
WOW that’s a big difference in spring rate.
It’s sprung very soft for rear seat passenger comfort. I think the aftermarket street kits are like 300 progressive.
Are you getting even tread ware on the car with it set up that way
West, do you know what spring rate your helper/tender springs are?
I started out running 7" springs with no helpers on my m3, then added the Swift 168 lbs/inch helpers up front and went to 6" springs. I’ve just removed the helpers and the car feels more connected without them, you might give this a try. Most folks running helpers are running near 0 rates, but I wanted to try something different thinking it might increase street comfort, wasn’t really worth it. If you are closer to 0 rate you may not feel any difference.
I believe this is the toe link I’m replacing. I just figure the bushings are shot. I tried to order this part with spherical bearings but they don’t sell it and couldn’t custom build it for me. I asked a few times.
I think the front tender spring is like 100 and the main spring 500. I don’t think there is a rear tender spring, just an 800 main spring.
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Forgot there is a helper spring in back
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The arm we are replacing
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The old arm is hollow and super light weight. New ones are heavier for sure.