I’m probably past the point where I should have switched to slicks for the track. Might go with Hoosier R7 (265) on BBS CH-R (19") in the future. Have to find a good portable jack, some wheel studs, etc.
The 800 pound rear spring, plus the wing, and 500 pound front spring is a great combination. The car is really sure footed. A crazy amount of mechanical grip, actually. The weakest part of the car now is tires. Thinking of trying the RE-71A. I know they’ll only last 6 track days.
Great to hear. What spring rate is the stock spring.
Like 200 progressive.
Also, I’m going to toe out the front wheels to -1/16 total. Somehow I lost that setting. And pair it up with RE-71R tires this time, just to try something different. I think they are 3-4 pounds heavier per tire, about $100 cheaper, and allegedly have 2/3 the track life. I usually run the Michelin Cup2.
WOW that’s a big difference in spring rate.
It’s sprung very soft for rear seat passenger comfort. I think the aftermarket street kits are like 300 progressive.
Are you getting even tread ware on the car with it set up that way
West, do you know what spring rate your helper/tender springs are?
I started out running 7" springs with no helpers on my m3, then added the Swift 168 lbs/inch helpers up front and went to 6" springs. I’ve just removed the helpers and the car feels more connected without them, you might give this a try. Most folks running helpers are running near 0 rates, but I wanted to try something different thinking it might increase street comfort, wasn’t really worth it. If you are closer to 0 rate you may not feel any difference.
I believe this is the toe link I’m replacing. I just figure the bushings are shot. I tried to order this part with spherical bearings but they don’t sell it and couldn’t custom build it for me. I asked a few times.
I think the front tender spring is like 100 and the main spring 500. I don’t think there is a rear tender spring, just an 800 main spring.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180201/95ffd7048f14ed365e41c9652b176d5e.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/31ed0f1f27804ae003552018bdf472c4.jpg
Forgot there is a helper spring in back
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/e034a260122b2f24b24be4190aceb059.jpg
The arm we are replacing
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/c8a7ba2191e28260206a8ed1c3bbb7ce.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/f27e87ae6057832b2b1dda62a81fc03a.jpg
The old arm is hollow and super light weight. New ones are heavier for sure.
We’ll try a bit of toe out on the rear this time.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/ff301ce885ef7d518b899df88e74452a.jpg
so were they shot? I cant tell from the pics
Shot isn’t the right word. Just old. Nobody really needs to replace it. I just figured a bushing from 2009 ain’t so great.
The rear toe out setup is working great. The car really wants to turn in. Totally awesome on track.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180218/48e0666e880e9ff3766e940c50d41f14.jpg
This is the new god’s tire. Nothing even comes close. RE-71R. I’m done with Cup2. Grip level is out of control.
West is it the compound of the tire or the tread pattern. What do you look for in getting a tire with better grip.
Tire compound and sidewall stiffness. They seem fine in the damp/wet also. Didn’t try in deep water.