badtoyz build thread.

B6/7 S4/RS4
#261

my hood arrived today!!! it looks great. I think im going to leave the carbon accents on the side vents but paint the center one.

fewshots of the front of the car… what supercharger??? lol.

should be breaking the clutch in by tm afternoon.


http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20150615_141044_zpsmxiruken.jpg

http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20150615_141841_zpsjy1out9g.jpg

http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20150615_141955_zpssufuwrdn.jpg

http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20150615_142022_zpsum14hqv5.jpg

and this is my authenticity card. pretty cool I thought.


http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20150615_192628_zpsoptu8uoi.jpg

#262

the one thing im not happy with is using the oem rubber tube off the throttle body. I think it looks stupid and it sits too high. im gonna order the one from jhm and honestly they should add that to the kit. the oem one looks like it will flex with boost to me. I just don’t like it.

#263

You’re just starting to break I the thread and are going to the dragstrip in 2 days?

Skip that. Just wait till next week. Supposed to be hot and humid all week.

#264

I thought I saw somewhere where folks ditched 034MS silicone MAF hose as one of the claps would not hold and it slips under boost. So they went back to OEM one and all is fine.

#265

don’t worry the clutch will be properly broken in before any launches. ill prolly burn a couple tanks of gas just tm.

I hadn’t read that there was any issues with 034 hose. compared to the other hoses the oem one is super soft. im sure I could get it to sit down a bit by just adjusting things but I want a new one. ill ask jhm what they think, ultimately function comes before form.

#266

Burning tanks of fuel doesn’t = breaking in the clutch. You’d need to go through 3 tanks of fuel to break it in and that’s in city driving. Aka at an average speed of about 30 kmh when you factor in all the stop and go. So you need to go about 1000 kms…or 35 hrs of city driving. I don’t see that happening.

#267

Don’t rush it man you aren’t going to do anything exciting in shit DA anyways.

You’re basically going to waste your time and risk ruining the new clutch.

#268

I know you’re excited to hit the track right away man (I would be too) but take your time with the clutch. It’s nasty humid weather this week anyways.

#269

If your looking for a 034 MAF hose, i have one ill sell to you below JHM and 034 cost. During xmas season i ended up getting two (wife bought me one and father bought me one) and i didn’t realize until about 2 weeks ago. Its brand new still in the bag.

#270

I have heard this with a few s4 guys. The OEM one has more room to allow the motor to rock up and down and back and forth.

Depending on what Eddie wants it might be something good to thunk about but the stick one is best here due to the reason above.

As for the clutch. My suggestion is just take your time the longevity of the clutch and it’s ability to hold all power over a long life starts at break in. Just lots of slow stop and go traffic. Too many guys think driving at 80 mph for 500 miles is putting 500 miles on the clutch and it doesn’t work that way but I’m sure you knew that.

#271

Take your time when breaking in the clutch. When I broke in my 5r I kept track of city miles very closely. I hit the 500 mile mark and felt like it still wasn’t broken in completely so I kept going easy on it. After about 800 city miles and 1500 total miles everything finally felt consistent and smooth.

#272

Just in case you didn’t already know. Never slow engage the clutch or slip the clutch when breaking it in. Quickly and sharply engage the clutch for best results.

Too many people think slowly engaging the clutch will be easier and it’s not easier it horrible for the clutch

#273

Couple notes on the hood:

-The Vorsteiner hood will have provisions for the windshield washer nozzles, along with the hole for routing the wiring.
-At the front of the hood, there are 6 points where the rubber bumpers are installed. The 2 at the very front aren’t adjustable, but the other 4 are… That being said, all the Vorsteiner hoods I’ve seen are different in regards to which holes are actually cleaned out enough to thread those bumpers in. On my first hood, I could only fit the two outer ones. On my current hood, I’ve only got the two front ones. Since you’re running hood pins, these won’t be much of an issue, but I just wanted to point that out so you’re not erk’d by it.
-For both the hinge bolts and latch bolts, don’t over-torque them…please don’t over-torque them. There was a fella Saki mentioned that over-torqued the latch bolts and they failed. His lawsuit is the reason Vorsteiner doesn’t make the B7 hood anymore…well, they will, but I think they quoted something asinine, like $4700 to make another one…
-I actually removed my center latch once I switched to hood pins. It didn’t like locking, and I didn’t like dropping the hood from 2’ with the hood pins sticking up… It’s your call which route you wish to go.
-When you look at the vents, the amount of material that remains is directly correlated to when the hood was produced. The newer hoods have much smaller openings, as the leftover material acts as additional structure. The early hoods were cut out completely and people complained of spider cracks in the resin.
-The A4 guys are generally the ones who have problems with these hoods & water. The center vent lines up directly with the coil packs on the 2.0t and that’s what generally failed.
-I don’t know of anybody who’s had water/electrical trouble with this hood and a V8, but perhaps I just never heard about it. I’ve had no issues, nor have the other 20 people I know with the hood, but we’re all in SoCal/AZ…which admittedly isn’t the best demographic to poll. Personally, I think the guys who can’t adjust their bumper for sh*t are getting more water in the engine bay than I ever do with the hood…but again, I’m biased.
-When you’re installing the pins, be cognizant of the underside of the radiator support…as you adjust the pin height, you’ll hit the headlight housing quick, and need to chop off quite a bit of the extra pin to get a clean install.

#274

I can’t edit, but wanted to point out one more thing: the driver’s side vent sits right above the coolant expansion tank, exposing it to direct sunlight. The UV will kill that thing in a year or two depending on how often it sits outside. I used aluminum reflective tape on the top of mine and it’s held up quite well.

#275


http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/20150616_153833_zpsaukinnr2.jpg

I absolutely love the look of it. as koolade said the holes are nowhere close to the coilpacks which makes me feel a lot better about it. it will be garage parked and I will try not to drive in the rain but shit happens. now that the hood is on I can see that the hinges are bent so now im at a stop until the hinges come in because I need the hood in its home before I can start marking out for the pins. told they will be in tomorrow.

I do have some spider cracks in the vents but ive come to accept this with carbon. every piece of trim on the interior of my car is cracked as well. im going to paint the whole hood leaving the accents only in the side vents. the guys at foreign auto love it the way it is and think i should just leave it but theres too many imperfections and high spots in the resin for me to be happy.

the other issue im having is the hood prop. koolade what did u do with yours? im not comfortable at all with it on the one side of the hood. as of right now im not going to be using one, ill use a stick right In the center of the hood for now.

im not sure when my hood was made but the first number in the serial number is 09 so maybe that’s the year?? the holes look small to me though.

oh and the bumper gap is as close and tight as we can get it. it took some wrestling to get it on.

#276

I never really paid attention to the serial numbers, but 09 would be mid-production. It probably sits nice against your passenger fender I’m guessing (earlier ones didn’t). As for the hood prop, I just bought a retractable one from the snap on truck and I’ve been using that ever since.

#277

ya I guess ill do that too. quick look online and I can get one at napa.

#278

That hood does look pretty damn nice.

#279

thank you.

I was just thinking to myself I cant get to the track and set records but at least ill hold 2 records for sure.

  1. longest rs4 supercharger build in history.
  2. most expensive rs4 hood in history.
#280

Just break in the clutch and break in the supercharger properly. Setting a record for ‘first patient thing Badtoyz has ever done with his RS4’ would be most impressive :wink: