so ill stick all things and info related to the install over here to help keep things uncluttered.
heres the jhm install instructions for anyone to flip through if youre considering tackling this yourself.
http://jhmotorsports.com/instructions/JHM_B7-RS4_Supercharger_Kit_Installation_Instructions_V2.pdf
I would make 5 blank posts right now. That way when you update the thread you can update each post with that’s days work or updates. This will make all the good stuff at the top and you don’t have to look through the thread for the good stuff.
my build thread.
http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?board=8.0
front bumper removal thread I used as a guide plus the jhm instructions. the nuts u gotta get to from the the inner fender were a bit of a pain. seems theres a lot less room than on an a4.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/298674-DIY-Front-Bumper-Removal
link to sars build thread. this has been very helpful to me. if the instructions are lacking a picture u can bet sar took one. very well documented build. also RHD.
4
5 good idea Justin.
front bumper removed crash bar gone. all fluids drained. startin to get tipsy so its time to stop.
successful night!
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20141128_223158_zpsdzgbb02u.jpg
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20141128_223222_zps4utrqjxp.jpg
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20141129_000432_zpsyiedp8ad.jpg
Nice start!
Fantastic start. These threads are always exciting.
im gonna try and get away with not taking the oil cooler off. I know its gonna be an absolute cocksucker to get off and ill likely damage it and destroy the lines. if it comes down to it ill order the jhm upgraded lines but im gonna try not to.
I thought I was gonna have to order the front motor mount but mine is in surprisingly good shape. what I do want to order is the apikol dif mount. once I get the ac lines off to send back and go through my checklist ill place another small order to get the few things I need or missed.
intake off, aux rad gone, new cnc machined piece with one way check valve installed.
when taking off the intake I found it easier instaed of fuckin with those hard to reach bolts at the back to just take the intake off with the oil separator still attached. I just spent a bit more time unclipping connectors and hoses to get some more room to remove the intake.
that being said I broke a vac nipple on the oil separator trying to get the last hose off. not a big deal I have lots of brass ones kickin around so I drilled the hole out a bit and tapped a new one in and expoxyed it in.
all the shots of the valves are the worst ones. this is what it looks like after a CC 15k km ago. tomorrow ill get some seafoam and clean it all up. also the intake flap at the front had a chunk of silicone stuck to one of the flaps I think this is what wasn’t allowing the flap to return fully to rest position. hopefully that fixes that code.
first jhm part in the kit installed wooo hooo.
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20141201_204859_zpspptqlpzx.jpg
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20141201_204910_zpsp7ppsbvo.jpg
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20141201_204741_zpsk2f0bwti.jpg
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20141201_204747_zpsjrvpmrug.jpg
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20141201_204801_zpsvf83fs5a.jpg
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20141201_205021_zpskiapz48g.jpg
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20141201_205031_zps1sjpwpqr.jpg
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20141201_205046_zpsr6swub6y.jpg
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20141201_215918_zpsigqrv9ti.jpg
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20141201_220000_zpsjuj5vjjt.jpg
Lots a great pictures. Great documentation and notes.
carbon clean finished and let me just say I will never ever in a million fucking years attempt that again without a walnut shell blaster. the seafoam works and if u have ample patience it can be done but is sure as hell do not. I got them cleaner than they were but not perfect like I said its only 15k of build up so it will be fine until I pull the intake at the end of next season and buy a blaster. after the valves I cleaned up the intake as best I could and the intake spacers.
I decided to let the intake dry out for the night and move on to something else.
ac lines and drier, sai pump and all pulleys removed. I was going to put all the new ones on but I cant find my Loctite so done for the night back at it tomorrow.
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20141202_202239_zpspwg3ks4w.jpg
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20141202_210719_zpsoh3thomu.jpg
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20141202_210735_zps4do6bwip.jpg
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20141202_215131_zps30hfaozq.jpg
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20141202_215140_zps0dw1a38w.jpg
so back at it.
intake back on, crank pulley on, unused coolant lines capped, ac lines removed.
just a quick pic of what it looks like with the spacers installed from the front.
things of note:
the lower ac line runs from one side of the car to the other and snakes behind the oil pan. super pain in the ass to get out. the instructions say to drop the subframe to access this line but after taking a look at it I decided this was unnecessary. keep in mind this is one of the lines that jhm wants back for the 950 core charge. theres a bracket that’s bolted in about an inch from the subframe and is on such an angle u cant get any kind of wrench on it. the bracket has a split in the center and is just thin metal so I put a pry bar in there and carefully opened the crack until it was big enough to slip the line out. (this may be why they say to drop the subframe). on the left side of the car the line Is wrapped around some coolant lines and electrical connections. I removed everything I thought was gonna be in my way. slowly and carefully I wedged it out inch by inch until I got it free from everything. I then got under the car and just unbolted the front sway bar to allow enough room to wiggle the ac line out. took me a couple hours but I didn’t drop the frame I didn’t break anything and the line is out in one piece.
heres a few shots of the difference in size between the oem and jhm crank pulleys. the difference in weight is unbelievable.
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20141208_213932_zpsiifty0fq.jpg
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-12-09%2001.07.55_zpsbqasgg4x.jpg
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20141209_003924_zpsvtuxgafj.jpg
the instructions were really vague about where to cap the coolant lines off and even as to where they were actually located. looking at their pictures in the instructions I was lost for a couple minutes before I realized they were behind the alternator. I then realized the pics they were showing must have been from an engine that had been pulled because u can still see the back of the alternator in them and theres no way u can see that while the motor is still in the car.
so I popped the alternator off and learned something new about my car. the alternator is water cooled! did not know that. getting at the hoses were an absolute bitch with those stupid spring clamps. the one I had to cap was facing towards the rear of the car and could not get it off so I busted out the dye grinder and cut through the clamp. this is where I stopped for the night and sent jake a msg to see if I have the lines going the right way, like I said the instructions are pretty vague in this area and I don’t want to put the alternator back in until I know its right. u need to bring the line from the nipple in the top of the pic down underneath the frame rail but over top of the SC so I want to make sure its good before I continue and have to take it all off again.
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20141208_235548_zpsjfzgdkbe.jpg
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj615/Garrett_Hargreaves/Mobile%20Uploads/20141209_003533_zpsg2lsfktn.jpg
Great work man
neat, I didn’t know they were running a smaller than normal crank pulley on there. Another way to slow down the supercharger a little so they don’t need to run a large dinner plate sized pulley on the blower
I cannot believe how heavy the stock pulley is. I was toally blown away when I pulled it off and felt the weight. wanted to weigh it but the kids just broke the bathroom scale so ill have to get a new one.
Those are some BIG kids! :o
^^^ big rats is what they are. its my own fault, i started a wrestling match that carried into the bathroom and it got broken lol.
so after taking with sar and dan at jhm i got the coolant situation figured out.
all were doing here is bypassing the coolant/oil cooler so we cap it off at the block where it used to go into the cooler then the bottom hose from the block goes through the alternator out the other side. then into the reducer that’s supplied with the kit. you then have to modify one of the oem lines by cutting a bit off, attach it to the other end of the reducer and that’s the line that goes under the frame rail and over the supercharger.
i think i was getting confused with the wording in the instructions. now that i see how it goes i feel kinda dumb for not figuring it out right away.
