But…as you pointed out to me, or reminded my senile ass, a quick log while driving an RS will determine right quick if it is tuned. Throttle posisition % below 5Krpm, I/M flap position below 5K etc. I realize a dealer probably won’t do this to determine if the car has a tune but it seems like an obvious somewhat quick check, no?
sounds like a cam adjuster struggling. and that would explain the choppy idle and stalling. i really doubt it’s a broken guide.
There was an engine torque test that I had to do like three times before I left the dealership. It made you drive the car WOT to see if the engine torque went over what it should be. None of those cars were modded so it didn’t show anything past the spec but it would be interesting to look at the measuring value block on a heavily modded car in turbo mode using a vag-com. I wonder how far off the measuring value block is from what you are actually putting down.
Wouldn’t he have the typical code that goes along with that, and probably a flashing CEL for the misfires?
The only codes thrown were related to o2 sensors and idle rpm too low
is it drivable?
I guess so but I am thinking more with respect to flashing back to stock before service
‘actual torque’ is a field you can log in Newton meters. It reads a bit lower than crank torque and higher than a dyno proper
I logged it on my car and converted to lb ft and then made a torque and HP plot
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/744079309.jpg
Stop thread jackin
Somewhat.
is that measuring block in the engine or engine 2 module?
the older cars have it in the abs module (along with lots of other cool fields) but moving it to the engine 1/2 is interesting
The reason for me not thinking its a timing failure is a couple of things. The sound isn’t rhythmic and it went away. My sound was consistent, rhythmic and much louder.
Who knows though. Its a very odd sound and I’m sure not all timing related failures sound or act the same. I was lucky enough to have a failure that didn’t even throw codes. Engine ran great just made a weird ticking noise after the oil was warmed up.
I hope its something easy fingers crossed
Yes, I will confirm later which one. I’ve used it to confirm I went flashed back to stock before driving in to the .dealer. I also checked throttle position etc. I find it very useful and am happy i was told how to do this via vagcom.
Sorry Codered for the thread jack.
Keep us posted.
engine
makes sense given the strict torque control
Still at dealer and still no word.
this will be an interesting test of TD1T10 or whatever it’s called. Basically JHM makes NO attempt to hide their tune on these cars. They change the name of the vehicle to say JHM 4.7 (or 4.8 or 5.0) right in the title so that techs will see it and the weird displacement will jump off the screen at them as weird.
Still no word from the dealership on what the issue is.
I did call them and the guy said they are still in the diagnosis stage.
I thought maybe it’s the actual chip in the ecu but I did nothing out of the ordinary. And if it would of screwed up it would of done it a long time ago.
I was getting a load of o2 sensor codes and I forgot to disconnect them to see if it would run different.
So I got the car back, and I was in for a shocker.
Sakimano is right, YOU CAN get TD1’ed with something before a B8, so it applies to all vehicles, I’m not officialy TD1’ed yet but I’m running a high risk of getting it now. The service advisor at the dealer is working with me at the dealer to possibly avoid it but I need to get this damn readiness code set, more on that later.
Here is what codes I had when I took it in to the dealer, there was 1 more that caused a CEL to come on but I didnt have that since I saw it on the way to dealer.
Here is what they did:
They replaced the two o2 sensors.
Then they wanted to replace my gutted cat pipes with actual cats because the readiness is “INCOMPLETE” and they cannot set it’s readiness. I told them this will not work or fix anything. So after some going back and forth it was agreed I’ll take the car and drive it around a bit to see if it will set readiness automatically.
Any idea how long that takes?
Here is the still existing issues now:
I’m still getting a rough idle, the tricky part is it happens on and off during my driving.
On my way to work at some point the CEL started to flash, I stopped, connected my obd2 tool and then the CEL went away as soon as i put the car into park.
A quick fault code scan revealed the following:
P0174 - System Too Lean (BANK 2)
P0306 - Cylinder 6 Misfire detected
Car ran rough, so i cleared the codes and immediately as I did, it went back to normal. Shortly after, rough idle again but no CEL yet.
BUT the O2 codes are not popping up as they were before.
I spoke to the tech that worked on my car and he said the “Idle Control System P0506 - 002 - RPM Lower than Expected - Intermittent” could be a throttle body issue.
I was getting the O2 sensor codes for about 2 weeks or so, on and off.
Then I did the throttle body adjustment via vag-com and it seems that when I did that, my rough idle issue appeared. Do you guys think cleaning it out could possibly help?
How the hell can i remove it? or can i clean it without removing it?
Removing the throttle body is pretty easy. Basically remove the boot, disconnect the er connector and unbolt the throttle body (as I recall it anyway). But before you get that far you can see if it’s dirty by pulling of the boot and peeking in.