Well I fail to see what the point of doing anything more with my small k04 framed turbos would be. Certainly dont need rods or pistons with such a small turbo, been running it thusly for years now. More agressive tune isnt going to get me where i want to be either.
OK, I’ll play…but reading your post it is very hard to take you seriously.
You can’t afford TIALS…who said TIALS were the way to go? Just you mentioning this scares me. You also can’t afford them, but your going to build a 3.0l bottom end, your not making sense man??
You B5 guys always over think shit.
Why not just build a 2.7T? Put a good set of rods and pistons in it, 2.8 heads, cams, RS6r turbos. You have a ton of supporting mods (intake/exhaust), but most importantly you need proper fueling and proper tuning (JHM).
…or you could just “tune those fucking cams and meth” cross your fingers and hope the car runs for more than 90 days.
I see you had a thread wanting to be in GT territory.
[quote]Any thoughts? Vendors are more than welcome to put their 2c in… Ideally, id just like to write a 20K check and be handed back the keys and a nice dyno sheet after a month, and then go run low 11s on pump gas, + have some fun.
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Why did you want to spend 20k on this build to run low 11s? That has been done on K04s and even easier on our RS6-R turbos. And if your plans are 94oct + Meth I think you can get pretty close.
You say you want to do this on a budget, so do you have a price range we can work with? If your goal is low 11s we can make that happen without going GT.
Why did you want to spend 20k on this build to run low 11s? That has been done on K04s and even easier on our RS6-R turbos. And if your plans are 94oct + Meth I think you can get pretty close.
You say you want to do this on a budget, so do you have a price range we can work with? If your goal is low 11s we can make that happen without going GT.
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Looks like you’re in good hands here.
the SRM units seem to be similar, and cheaper. Unfortunatly I have no hard data over what is “better” as everything I try to read seems to degenerate into petty forum squabling.
Right now my budget is “0” as in I have a pile of parts and no money. hopefully that will be rectified by summertime when i can start getting the block and heads assembled.
however i dont want to start building anything until i get a better understanding of what, if any need there is for an overbuilt block or large port heads, if I have an ultimate maximum limit of >600wtq/hp.
If you budget is $0.00 then I am not sure how else to help you other than go as far as you can with the parts you already have. Having RS6 hybrids should get you into the 11s. I would get a good exhaust system and run with it.
Edit- Just saw you have an old Vast tune. That would probably be something you would want to change.
Here’s the formula…run a stock s4 2.7t…run an appropriately sized turbo… get a good tune…keep your er smics or sell them and get a new or used jhm fmic if that can save you a fee bucks to soend on tuning…make 450 whp and as much wtq…run 11.6 @ 120 and be faster than 90 percent of cars on the road. Be happy that you have a nicely modded car that runs but isn’t too complicated.
The b5 world seems to always want to get stuck on doing everything possible and waiting 3 years for it to happen. By that time you reach a condition called modification exhaustion and you hate the car and sell it. Fuck it.
Its the 80/20 rule in a b5. You will get 80 percent of the performance out of 20 percent of the modifications. Turbos tuning fuelling cooling clutch and downpipes will get you 80% of the way to being the fastest b5.
The remaining 20% of performance requires the other 80% of mods… the built motor and revised valvetrain with new heads and cams and blah blah blah. You will also spend a fortune on this stuff and introduce a million new things to go wrong.
Stock b5 s4
Decent exhaust
Nicely sized turbo like an k04 or etter yet rs6 or rs6r
Great tuning
Fuelling
Cooling
Clutch
Some lightweight parts.
You’re looking at an 11.6-11.8 @ 120-125 car depending on octane. It should run too. An example of this is Hunter from Detroit. S6atron. Great performer and a simple modlist. Car has run well for a couple of years now following this formula.
His brother tweets4estate is the other option…the ambitious b5 build. He went full b5 retard. built a monster…the whole 100%. It ran awesome for about two weeks in the last 5 years. He must have $75,000 to 100,000 in it and if he sold it today he MIGHT get $15,000 for it. It has done more miles criss crossing the country on the back of a transport carier to his super tuner in washington from Detroit, than it has actually been driven at 100% . He ran 10.7 @ 130 during the most recent stretch if a couple of weeks running great, which is awesome…but his car is broken again.
Two choices
Moderate build as outlined, spend 10 grand, run awesome, be happy, whip everyone but late model supercars’ asses
Monster build, spend tens of thousands, run shit, be miserable, whip nobodys asses because your build isn’t done, and when it is, it keeps breaking, sell it and leave the b5 platform a broken man. Or start a thread wanting 600 whp with no more money invested (#pipedream).
I’m safe hayden… sell the rods, pistons, crank, heads, get JHM tune, ditch the meth and use the rest of the cash to upgrade fuelling and get rs6r turbos.
As for going deep 11s on pump…do you actually mean on pump or do you mean on pump plus meth? Pump plus meth is basically enabling race gas parameters so I wouldn’t ever call it ‘on pump’
Ps under what username do you have a 12 flat time on ‘the database’?
If you have all the parts ready to go together for a solid 3L then go for it.
Considering you are looking at RS6 hybrid style turbos, I wouldn’t bother with the 2.8heads, just keep it simple and throw to Ti retainers and high performance valve springs (Rosten makes em good and cheap) Grab some RPM rods if you need super cheap or IE if you want to spend a couple extra bucks.
Have it tuned by a reputable brick and mortar type business. Then just enjoy
All that should easily be done in under 8K including engine bore if you do the wrenching yourself
I would invest in head work, supertech exhaust valves and springs/retainers at a minimum. The extra revs and the gearing advantage gained alone should help you get into the 11s. If you want to take the next step, get your stock heads ported out (intake ports gasket matched) and either port your stock intake manifold or go rs4 with rs4 throttle body. This paired with some 2.8 cams should make a significant improvement.
Too many people skip head work on this platform and I don’t understand why???