oh ya and the JHM short shifter trio, my bushings were beat to pieces.
Looks good bud!!
Nice work, you and Palko are on a roll. Come do mine next lol
Lol slow and steady, ill lend you thw tools when you go to do yours. I think ots better if i dont go near any one elses car, my luck is pretty shitty haha
Take your time to do the work right the first time. If it takes longer its better then to rush and have to go back and do it again
I hear ya! I’m definitely in no rush, I’m anxious to drive it but I don’t want it back in the car until everythings good.
Nice work - I have the utmost respect for peeps who take this on. Keep us posted, always interesting to see how different people approach it
Small update, still waiting on my OEM parts so I’ve just been doing small things on other parts of the car. I picked up the shifter trio from JHM and its made me realize just how wore out the parts were on my linkage/shifter, also mounted the zero gap bracket for my snub mount. I’m sure I will need to make small adjustments and more grease but for now everything is installed.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/malcman/Mobile%20Uploads/20160115_191438_zpsxpa9rhil.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/malcman/Mobile%20Uploads/20160116_234342_zpsebgit3a4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/malcman/Mobile%20Uploads/20160116_234353_zpshg6jgiwp.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/malcman/Mobile%20Uploads/20160115_181348_zps1vkh4pyc.jpg
I picked up a parts engine last week and pulled out the solenoids for the mechanical adjusters. I brought them into work because we have a variable voltage supply and put 5V on them and both moved but not much, maybe 1/8". I am wondering how much travel I should see out of them, I suspect not much as it only need to fill a small void with oil.
Andrew
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/malcman/Mobile%20Uploads/FB_IMG_1454780431845_zpswloo5kwu.jpg
BIG UPDATE…finally lol
got all the locking pieces on the engine today and decided to dig into what’s causing me all the issues I was having. Pulled the mechanical adjuster off on bank 1 and tried to test it like they do on the JHM video and noticed nothing was happening. Took the adjuster apart and noticed these pieces lying inside, looks to me like the small retainer for the spring and pin. Am I wrong in assuming if this is broken it will cause the adjuster to jam.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/malcman/Mobile%20Uploads/20160215_202924_zpshrlumwfh.jpg
shitty pic
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/malcman/Mobile%20Uploads/20160215_203215_zps6alyu2eo.jpg
Is that the new adjuster that was just put in 1200 miles ago?
Yes sir, im guessing it wasn’t lined up properly when the cover was torqued down. Taking them apart it felt like it was tightened alot more than 8ft lbs lol but not sure if that had any adverse affects or not.
Looks like that donut busted that lead to the spring not working as well
I’m going to pull the one’s out of the adjusters on my used engine and swap into my rebuilt units and test them. I believe that you can’t just buy the little plastic pieces from the dealer, probably just full adjusters.
I am wondering if them being over torqued could cause them to bind up too.
1 step forward two steps back today, I put the new spark plugs in today even though the one’s I took out didn’t look old at all. I stole the biscuit out of one of my used adjusters before reading back through Count Vohns thread and realizing I could get new one’s from JHM. I had the adjuster all reassembled and torqued before realizing this lol so apart it comes to get the new parts installed. Started reading through the installation section of the manual for the adjusters and I definitely think I’ll have some questions. It mentions removing the crank lock pin and rolling the crank 30 degrees and their wording is a bit vague for the trim removal wedge.
That’s my update for now, still waiting on a bunch of seals/gaskets etc. When I go to re-install and torque the adjusters I’ll have more specific questions if I haven’t figured it our or found my answers through searching.
Smart move to go back and replace that biscuit they can get brittle over time and the result of them cracking and breaking is bad. It makes good sense to change them while its easy to get to.
The wedge is there for keeping everything in line when your tq down the bolts. Once you get both sides done you can check the pace and roll the motor over two times to check the chain placement and assure your orentation is correct
Sounds good, the thought of taking the crank lock pin out before everything is tight makes me a bit nervous but if thats whats called for then i’ll do it lol.
Thank you!
No you shouldnt have to take the crank pin out. you can if you want to check the alignment but I dont ever remove it until I check and then rotate and check again. In some cases you might need to back it off but thats not every time
UPDATE
Car is now back on the road and running well, the only code I’ve received is for the SAI which is to be expected since I removed it. I haven’t put a ton of miles on it yet but I plan to update this thread with some pictures I took along the way.
I have the JHM shifter trio and have found its shifting well in all gears except for reverse. Any tips for adjusting it so it will only affect reverse? I haven’t googled it yet but figured I would check on here first since quite a few of you have the kit.
I want to say thank you to all who helped with advice and clarification with the car, its made life a lot easier.
That’s great to hear. I read through the thread and it looks a lot like mine. Lol. Glad to hear it worked out in the end.
Wish I could help on the shifting, just haven’t got there yet.