I am going to try and do some alignment work on it tonight to see if it helps with the shifting.
Great to hear the car is back on the road and running well. Once your sure it’s all good get the jhm tune it’ll really change how you feel about the car it truly transforms the car that and you can turn off the Sai code
As for the shifter I know I lot of guys who used an angle finder to set the shifter. For better reverse you have to set the at home adjustment slightly more angled. But once you set the shifter you should never have to sit it again
Went back through the jhm video on youtube and did like you said Justin and all is well with reverse now! Im lined up to get the jhm tune tomorrow night lol I can’t stand having the CEL light on for the sai fault.
Good work dude! I would have shipped my cable to you if I had known you were going for a JHM tune
Its all good buddy, after the currency exchange it ended up being the same price just to have Dave do it. This way if there are any issues he can sort them out lol me and computers arent friends.
Update and more issues lol.
Cars driving pretty good as long as i keep it below 4500rpm, if i go above that it feels like it is starting to misfire and feels like it is not getting enough air. Feels like the manifold flapper isnt working, it moves freely by hand.
No CEL light/no codes
Attempted to do an engine output test with the car running with latest version of vcds with proper ross tech cable and i keep getting the “requirements for output test not met”. If i try and do the engine output test while ignition on and car not running it will run through the test and give N/A in all the boxes. I tried starting the test with the car off ignition on and then starting the car to see if it would continue but it stops the test immediately and gives me that fault.
Anyone have any advice here, im a vcds virgin and I really want to make sure it is the flap causing the issue and nothing more serious. Was supposed to of had the fuel filter changed when it was in the shop last year but I am going to confirm it with my own eyes lol
The car needs to be off but the key turned to the acc position. to run output tests. Once you run a output test or have to get out of a current output test you need to cycle off the key and usually open close the driver side door. It has something to do with the module wake up.
As for issues check the intake bolts see if they are still tight they will back out and need to be adjusted after the first 5 cold starts.
Ill check the manifold bolts but i would expect a lean code if it was that bad?. Will the manifold flapper move with the car off or will the solenoid just click?
Lean codes can take a while depending on whats wrong and how much you have driven.
the flaper will move as long as you have the vac resivware full and that doesnt take long to do once you have started the car. The intake flap should actually move once you key up the car you really dont need to do an output test. Just pop the hood make sure the car has been off for a little while. Go pop the hood and have someone key up the car. The flap should actuate on key up. Just dont start the car.But you will need to be looking under the hood while they key up the car
Awesome ill go check it out
Flapper moved lol that sucks…was really hoping that was the issue, have to check the manifold bolts and fuelling next.
You can just make sure its moving through the full range of motion but I would think that should be obvious when you watch it. Usually like I mentioned the car wont give lean codes right away and its possibly the car is in limp mode but those codes can take a while to come up as the ECU needs to check the full range of functions. how long have you been driving the car without clearing the ECU or pulling the battery off.
I’ve driven the car roughly 500km but have cleared codes a handful of times(trying to get rid of the sai code). With the way it drives around 4700rpm im amazed it doesnt throw a code. When im off this set at work ill dig onto it a bit further and report back.
Figured I would update this thread with the reason for the car running like trash above 4700rpm…I had a plugged drivers side catalytic converter.
I’ve sent off an email to JHM, hopefully we can come to an agreement on the situation. I won’t lie I’m pretty pissed off about it, I picked up the piggie pipes to make the car run better not fuck with my head for 6 months lol.
Anyways, I’m glad to have a car that runs like it should again lol its been a long painful road.
Wow didnt see that one comming. The pre cats fail all the time but an issue with the main cat is super rare.
Thanks for the update.
so one of the main cats went bad? wonder what happened. They’re pretty robust.
why is it JHM’s fault again? I don’t remember where this started. Did you immediately have a problem after installing a JHM piggie? i.e. they sold you a downpipe with a bad main cat?
Or did this occur after a time? Seems weird. As justin said I don’t remember someone having this happen on an RS4. B67 S4? Sure once in a while. But not RS4.
It happened as soon as I put them on the car, took them out of the box and onto the car. I completed a bunch of other maintenance on the car and assumed I fucked something up as the downpipes seemed like the least likely cause of my issue. The shop I took it to literally drove the car, put it on the hoist, measured the temperature differential with their pyrometer and immediately knew it was a plugged cat. I took a spare set of downpipes to them, they installed them without changing anything else and the car works perfect now.
Anyhoo JHM says I can pay shipping to and from Canada to California and they’ll decide if they are bad or not and send me another set. I picked up a spare set already from a friend so I’m just cutting my $650usd loss and not dealing with them again.
I have no issues sending them back on my own dime if they reimburse me my shipping costs when they realize the cats screwed but it makes zero sense financially for me to pay hundreds of dollars shipping on something i no longer need lol.
I’m running a B6 S4
And as a side note i’ve spent over 8000$ canadian with them in a year and a half and love all the other products I’ve received from them.
That just a bummer. Wonder how that slipped through.
It’s a horribly annoying lesson learned but is indeed a lesson for all of us to never ignore the myriad of problems a bad catalytic converter can cause.