I’m looking for some feedback and some help. The time has come to start looking into a new clutch. As far as I know I still have the original B6 clutch and flywheel. Only performance mod I have done is a catback. Mods I’m planning on doing the same time as the clutch hopefully (funds permitting), Dp’s or piggies, and tune. Do I see myself doing anything else in the next 2-3 yrs, not really but I won’t rule out anything. I DD my car about 50 miles a day, I don’t track the car but I can drive aggressively. I do like how the stock setup feels. The shop that I want to do the work said that If I was considering the stock clutch and flywheel, I could get a southbend stage 2 daily kit for the same price (they are a southbend dealer so). What they don’t know is that I can get the stock B7 luk clutch and flywheel off of rock auto for under $600 and the south bend is $1400+. For what mods I’m considering will I be fine with the a stock setup or should I be thinking about something else?
Here is my input on a clutch setup. If you are primarily daily driving the car, a stock clutch will be fine. Even with a tune you will not get to a point to where the car is making more torque than what the stock clutch can handle. I would say that if you do find your self driving the car a bit harder and are coming off the line a little hard, it might be wise to to run a bit more aggressive friction compound. However, if you drove in like manner on the previous stock clutch and didn’t have any issues than the stock clutch will be sufficient.
To comment on flywheels. In my opinion, on these Audis running a light weight flywheel, especially for a daily isn’t going to change the driving experience greatly. Now if you do like to go drive some back roads and heal-toe, than a light weight flywheel will be noticeable when blipping to downshift. However, a light weight flywheel will not make your car feel any faster. The southbend flywheel looks like it is a single mass steel, so it likely will not be much lighter than the stocker.
If you are thinking about going with the southbend, you might want to look into JHM’s kit too. The flywheel has a replaceable liner, so instead of having to get the flywheel faced, or buy a new one, you only have to change the liner ($120).
I ran a stock clutch and a JHM stage 5R in my S4. I also ran a JHM stage 3R in my RS4 and am currently running 5R.
The 5R is a bit much for daily driving, as it is touchy can can be a bit chattery if you talk off like a civilized human, but it holds up to my stupidity. ;D
Hope that helps!
I haven’t really changed how I drive in the past 10yrs I’ve had this car. I might launch it once in a blue, but I have done it. I don’t have too much stop and go traffic and mainly all my driving is back roads and hwy. I’ve never have had any issues with the dual mass flywheel, so I see no reason not to go back with the same thing. I would just get the updated B7 stuff. I don’t want a lightweight flywheel to be honest I hate the chatter. I remember that from my civic days even though it had a turbo, I don’t want to do that again. That’s really why I want to stay stock or stock like feel as far as the clutch goes. I would even be open to the stock flywheel and maybe the next step up clutch from jhm. Any idea what that would be?
I bought a used B7 flywheel (needed to be resurfaced), JHM stock replacement disc, and a new RS4 pressure plate. Very pleased with the results.
If your looking for just budjet and your going to JHM tune and maybe do down pipes the stock clutch will be ok but with aggressive driving you will go though it quicker than you would with stock power.
The JHM LW flywheel isn’t too bad its not Honda light wright. Its a nice balance and if you don’t chug the motor you probably won’t ever hear it chatter. If you hear the motor chug now or you like to try and shift into 6th and accelerate in 6th at 45mph then you need that extra flywheel weight.
Southbend IMHO isn’t worth the money. The JHM 1R is a good stock plus clutch if you want to have something with more grip.
I would recommend the B7 flywheel and RS4 PP but over time it seems to be hit or miss.
I’m not really opposed to getting a LW flywheel, my fear is when I get it in there I just won’t like it and I’m stuck with it. Am I on a budget? yes and no. I’ve put off a tune for about 4yrs, with getting other work done. This yr I’m just making sure I get it. I’m not as aggressive as I used to be since I work so much, but I’m still a racer at heart. I will never track this car so. The only time I would be in 6th and doing 45mph is close to home, like 2 miles. I guess where I’m at is I don’t want something that’s too conservative and I don’t want something too aggressive. I guess in this situation its better to have more, than not enough.
If you ask me. Once you get the tune and say the dps it will make you love the car again and promote a bit more of aggressive driving as it will just be easy and fun.
Its hard to know just where your line is on issues with chatter but so far I would say most of the guys who have been in your boat and made the switch to LWFW have been happy. And many have reported that they rarely or never hear any chatter. Again the JHM flywheel isn’t as light as it could be its a good in the middle weight that allows for a more spry rev in the motor but not easy chatter.
I really think you will see a transformation of the car with the JHM tune and dps. Enough so that you will have the JHM LA launch assist so if you want to launch the car the program is there to help make the launch more productive. If not just for that alone it would be IMHO a good idea to step up in clutches.
So as I see it its kind of the stock all the way as the RS4 PP is just not reliable or make the jump to the LW JHM unit and the 1R. The stock clutch can take a great amount of abuse but its also going to be the weak link at some point.
I need something to make me love the car again that’s for sure. To be honest I have always gotten a little chatter with the flywheel that’s on the car now, if I am in 5th or 6th at like 1500-1800 rpm. I got the car in 07 with 46k cpo. I’ve always thought I had a stock clutch and flywheel setup. Makes me wonder a little bit if I really do.
What are the differences between this and a 1R kit?
That one has the RS4 PP. Still a good choice but almost everyone you talk to will say the 1R PP JHM uses is much more relyable.
This is a big reason I would say stay away from southbend or spec or some of the other off brands for clutches as they just repurpose OEM PP units where JHM has their 1R PP made for them not just a off the shelf repurpose unit.
I guess for the most part I should be considering the 1R kit or better or nothing at all. Should I even be thinking about the 3R or would there be no need for that?
I think the 1R should be good enough to handle what you throw at it. The 3R is obviously more aggressive but I think given the path your talking about the 1R is enough and some.
Good clutch with plently of room for ruckus
Thanks will look into it the next few weeks and let you know what I decided on.
I think you can’t go wrong either way. Again if your going to go with this I would suggest seriously thinking about the JHM LWFW its not too light and its a great addition to helping make the car more sporty.
I’m 99% sure I will go with a lwfw, I just don’t know if I will get a 1r or 3r. Would a 3r still feel stock?
I ordered a 3R & LWFW combo with my original JHM Stage 1 Charger and eventually after the Stage 1+ upgrade the stock clutch just couldn’t cope. So, in went the 3R and honestly in my opinion it’s hard to to tell the difference. Most people if you don’t tell them won’t notice the difference.
Got a labor quote on the clutch job today. To say I had sticker shock was a understatement. All I can say is wow.
I spent most of Friday emailing jhm back and forth. They were recommending the kit with the rs4 pp. After reading around seeing some of the sticky clutch issues saving $350 just isn’t worth the possible issues. I’m just going to go with the 1R kit. I figured I would take care of somethings that overlap with labor. Rear main seal, metal slave cylinder. Is there anything else that I should be looking to do? Do the dp’s have to be removed to remove the transmission. Also should I hold off on a tune until the clutch breaks in? The thinking in my head new clutch and lwfw + tune = pain in ass learning curve.
The 1R is a great way to go you won’t be upset. your are right the extra little money will be long well spent. You don’t need the metal slave just make sure your getting a new pilot bearing with the flywheel the rear main is a good time to replace that other than looking at the transmission fluid at that point your on a good path.
It shouldn’t be more than 5 or 6 hundred dollars. Some shops really ding people and charge over 1000. What did you get quoted
Wouldn’t the new kit come with a new pilot bearing? I got quoted $1060