So this has been going on for a while. I don’t remember if it happened after something specific was installed but I’ve checked so many things that I’m out of ideas. The noise happens when I’m braking and only comes from the front right of the car. It also happens when I’m reversing for the first few feet. If I brake softly can come to a complete stop without the noise. But when I brake hard enough that the nose dips I hear it. It happens when I’m slowing to a stop, but also if I just hit the brakes hard enough while driving. At first I thought it was the H&R Coilovers but the noise is also happening with the Ohlins kit. Plus if you push the car up and down in the front to make it bounce, it’s silent. It never makes the noise going over bumps. JHM said they noticed it too and they confirmed the suspension and arms were all torqued to spec. I have the 034 upper control arms with probably about 8k miles on them. The dust boots need to be replaced but other than that they are fine I’m assuming. I replaced all of the lower arms with the HD upgrade set or whatever it’s called from JHM. I’ve replaced the inner and outer tie rods with HD tie rods. I have the 034 motor mounts which have maybe 8k miles on them. Finally, I have the Hotchkis sway bar with the 034 end links. The front right axle was rebuilt about 13k miles ago and the front right wheel bearing was just replaced. I also have the track density upper strut mounts. When it was still making noise after all of that I figured it’d disappear when I changed the brakes but it didn’t. I really thought it was going to be the brakes because the other day when it rained I wasn’t getting the sound at all regardless of how hard I braked. This has been so aggravating and I just want it to go away.
Really, nobody has any input? 
It doesn’t seem to be doing it as much in reverse, but every time, unless it’s raining, it makes the crunch/creak noise when I hit the brakes hard enough to make the noise dip. I know the number doesn’t matter but it makes 2-3 creak noises during the application and then again when I let off the brakes. Sounds like rubber but I could be wrong. Is it possible one of my subframe bushings is making all the noise? It literally only happens when applying the brakes when the car has forward momentum. I’m to the point where I’m about to mount the GoPro on the lower control arms and using the external mic to pinpoint the location of the sound.
Do you have anti rattle clips? I had a weird noise i was so sure that was suspension related and it was the anti rattle clips. Happened a few times. Glad i got the Porsche BBK and dont have those stupid things anymore.
Sorry I ment to post on this the other day. What about wheel rubbing any chance it is subframe related. I think the go pro is the greatest idea even if you can get the microphone and just move it into a few locations to help track it down.
I just installed the Porsche BBK and it’s still happening.
I see no signs of rubbing anywhere but also it doesn’t sound like that. The subframe is my best guess. Probably gonna try the GoPro idea but first I’m thinking of eliminating them one by one by hitting them with WD40 and test each one individually.
I would check that the 12 point 10 mm power steering rack bolts are tight, especially the upper two. It is probably a pain to get to the passenger side one since the intercooler tank is likely in the way. That bolt is usually the one that loosens and it has thrown me for a loop multiple times with different cars, usually C5 A6s though.
Do you get any noises when you turn the steering wheel from lock to lock and back while sitting still?
Yes I do Jimmy. I’m thinking you might be right even though I haven’t gotten a chance to check the subframe bushings yet. Do you think that would be silenced in the rain/snow from getting wet? Also, I have no clue where that bolt would be haha. Thanks.
It is hard to hear noises during the rain and snow since most people can’t differentiate noises very well.
The two upper power steering rack and pinion bolts go through the cowl area into the power steering rack and pinion.
The easy one to get to is on the driver’s side by the brake booster.
http://i1041.photobucket.com/albums/b411/Hazziar/184-8450_IMG.jpg
The more annoying one is on the passenger’s side usually under the battery but since you have the stage 2 JHM SC then the intercooler tank is probably in the way. This is usually the bolt that backs out or loosens.
http://i1041.photobucket.com/albums/b411/Hazziar/184-8449_IMG.jpg
It is a good thing that the third bolt usually always stays tight because it goes from the bottom of the power steering rack upwards into the cowl area and is a major PITA on everything other than a B6 A4 1.8T.
http://i1041.photobucket.com/albums/b411/Hazziar/184-8438_IMG.jpg
Thanks Jimmy, that’s a huge help. I’m gonna need to go buy a 12 point socket but will try that asap. Merry Christmas.
Good luck and Merry Christmas to you too.
Karma bump good idea and help. I would like to know if this fixed it. Let us know please
if you do a hard brake, then swerve left and right do you hear the crunching?
if you do 60, slam on the brakes then punch it in second gear, do you hear the crunching noise again as the front of the car lifts from acceleration?
I’m guessing Jimmy is probably right because it happens when I slalom the car and turn as far left and right as I can go. I ordered the socket which should be here in a few days so I’ll let everyone know as soon as I get it.
The swerving left and right causes it when I’m going slow and turning all the way left and right. As far as going 60 and slamming on the brakes, the noise happens again when I let off the brakes. I haven’t tried punching it afterwards.
if so it can be lower arm bushings. not sure which one as i changed the curved arm and straight one at the same time, but thats what cured the issue with me
I’ve pretty much ruled out the control arms already. They’re relatively new and both sides were changed at the same time. Plus they don’t make any noise when pushing the front end of the car up and down while it’s stationary.
I just got the socket so I’m gonna try and get in there tonight. Not sure how hard it’s gonna be to get underneath the water reservoir for the a/w intercooler.
I started with the driver side bolt since that was the easiest to get to. I put a decent amount of muscle into it and barely got it to move. The passenger side I was worried about getting to since I had no idea how the tank was mounted. But the water reservoir ended up being a lot easier to move out of the way than I expected. Once it was out of the way it revealed the other 10 mm 12pt bolt that Jimmy was so kind to share with us. Wouldn’t you know it, I was able to get about 1/3 of a turn before it was completely tight again. It’s been cold and wet for a while now so I can’t be 100% positive. But I was careful to not pull through any water before testing it out and got no noise. I haven’t heard it in a while though because of the weather. I’m still confident that bolt was the culprit. No sound in reverse, turning lock to lock, or jamming on the brakes. I will update if this changes but gonna go ahead and say Jimmy called it. Thanks bud, karma+ for you.
Wow that’s a good call. I hate the little bugs like that. It will be cool if you got it.
Yeah seriously. I don’t think I would have ever figured that one out. I’ve spent so much time and money trying to fix it too. Typical it’d be a 2 minute fix.
Unfortunately this is still an issue. I tightened the 2 bolts, not the third as I can’t find where it is, down with loctite and no luck. However, I think I’ve found the culprit. It appears some people have issues with the subframe due to weak pinch welds.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/288292-Front-subframe-replacement-wtf
So I figured this is as good time to replace the subframe bushings. I want to do the billet subframe bushings in the front, I’m just curious how harsh they make going over bumps. @JimmyBones how do you like your’s? Any feedback or regrets? I’m also going to do the rear subframe bushings as well to hopefully tighten everything up and get rid of the rattling I’m getting while driving on rougher roads. Do I need a press to remove or install any if the new bushings? I know that some of the billet bushings won’t fit until the subframe is hit with a die grinder, but what about the rear ones? I think I’m going to pick up the Meyle HD bushings unless somebody has a reason not to. Thanks guys.
The hunt continues. On the bright side you will have replaced a bunch of needed parts.