DL501 S-Tronic aftermarket clutch pack options

Per request, here’s a list of all the aftermarket kits I know of for the RS5. It should be noted that the RS5 clutch discs and plates may be different in size from the other DL501-equipped cars. I don’t know if the basket size is different however or whether say S6 clutches and discs can fit into an RS5 clutch basket.

Some of the kits are full builds with clutch basket, others are the clutch friction discs and clutch plates. Some of the discs are OEM replacements meaning they have the same or very similar coefficient of friction.

McLeod-This is a full rebuild kit with various gaskets, the friction and clutch plates, etc…cost is $1300 as I reached out to them on it. They mentioned it has 30% more torque capacity than the OEM clutch pack. I also reached out to Raybestos on their discs and they said they are designed as an OEM replacement meaning they’re not more aggressive than the OEM discs. So take the 30% more torque capacity with a grain of salt.

Deka Clutch-This company is out of Russia and they offer three stages for the DL501. I know of at least one individual here in the states running this clutch successfully. Stage 1 seems reasonable and supposedly holds 700Nm (516ft. lbs) as is. I don’t know if that’s with increased valve body pressure but at least one company says the OEM discs are capable of holding 800Nm. The stage 3 apparently holds 1200Nm and uses more friction and metal discs. Looks like they’re using the stock basket but everything is fully rebuilt. I’ll get clarification and add that info here. The stage 2 photos show “Germany” across one of the friction plates but it has more friction and steel plates per clutch pack.

TVS Engineering-This is a company out of the Netherlands who has dipped their toe into all aspects of the DL501 and they have a lot of options available from tunes to clutch packs. I’m still waiting to hear back on what they have to offer for clutch options along with pricing. Had to send them my VIN first. More info to come…Custom Code used to carry TVS stuff but it appears their site is gone (closed their doors?).

SSP Performance-They sell clutch packages, friction and steel discs but not assembled clutches. Says for the S4 but they may fit others. Heard there were daily drivability issues with them but that could have been down to improper clutch slip adaptation.

Exedy-Big time company who has been making clutches for decades. They offer OEM style clutch discs and they separate it into friction and steel kits
Friction Kit part number is EFK415
Steel kit part number is ESK415
Price will vary by vendor.

Borg Warner-Yes, the same company which makes the DL501 is now offering clutch packs. These are OEM replacements so don’t expect them to hold more torque than the original clutch pack. But some interesting info on the page which lends credibility on the S6/S7 having different diameter discs.

Oooo thanks Michel this is great, please keep us informed on what the company’s say and what your thoughts are on these clutch packs ! It will be interesting to find out more ! :+1:

Does the engine need to be dropped with the transmission when performing transmission modifications ? In other words, do they come down together or can you drop the tranny independently

Modifications like flywheel and clutch? No, you can drop the transmission separately from the engine. If it’s a mechatronic replacement, you can do that with the transmission in the car. No need to remove.

Hey there @Ape_Factory this is what we discussed via email !!

I have been looking at clutch plates and I’m not sure what i need as some have a full kit like McLoed do i need all this ? Some have just friction and steel plate kits. I’ve been thinking about the stage 1 kit from Deka Clutch seems a good one and a good price but will i need anything else for the job ie clutch baskets, seals etc to get the job finished ?

Im also keen on Exedy as thery are a well established company and have a good rep for clutches etc. I’m just not sure what is needed or what would be my best option ?

Also you mention about running these new clutch plates in and doing the adaptation at certain mileage what is the bedding in process and what mileage do i need to do the adaptation at ?

Is there anything else i should be aware of and is there anything else that should be done or changed while the guy is fitting the plates ?

The McLeod is the most expensive OEM type mostly because it comes with a ton of new gaskets. I haven’t looked to see what those gaskets are or if they’re necessary but if your car is higher miles, it’d be a good time to replace them anyway.

I’ve COMPLETELY given up on TVS. It’s been a total joke. Like they don’t want to sell their products. So I’d look elsewhere, they’re either not very or completely non-responsive.

The stage 1 Deka clutch pretty much looks like OEM. Same torque capacity. Can reuse your existing clutch basket. I think he asks that you either send yours in or send it after the fact. As I said, my guy here in Austin makes parts for them so they’re legit.

Exedy has a kit, of clutch and steel discs. Not sure what else comes with their “kit” though. The person I’m working with here really likes their stuff but also feels the new kevlar option may be better now that they’ve worked out the break-in procedure. But it’ll be a bit before I can get over there and check things out. Looks like businesses will open up here some time in May but I don’t think it’ll be 100% safe.

Adaptation will need to be done right after installation, then again after 200 miles and once more thereafter. That’ll also depend on which clutch discs you’re using. Deka, most likely, recommends a different break-in procedure depending on which stage you purchase. Even with the OEM’s, after running adaptation, I’d take it easy and let the discs do their thing and mate together so to speak. Then change the ATF-side fluid at the next gearbox service, whether it be the MTF or ATF side. MTF is every 20K miles while the ATF is every 40K. I would change the ATF side every 20K honestly.

Other than that, I’d give the car a good once over since the gearbox is out. You’ll have easier access to more parts and can check axles, wheel bearings, bushings, stuff like that. Look over the wiring harness going to the transmission, etc…You could time the clutch replacement with servicing the ATF side if you’re already close to the scheduled time for service. That’ll save you some quid as it’s a wet clutch and you’ll be draining the ATF fluid anyway. Will be easier to take the pan off, change the filters and refill if you have a proper transmission stand that does not get in the way of the pan or the drain/fill ports.

Thats great @Ape_Factory thank you for all your info I’m in two minds of just having the JHM Flywheel fitted for now and ill see how you get on with your guy and what you two can come up with regards the the kevlar option ? Or i might just bite the bullet and go for the Deka kit ? Ill sleep on it and see !! Like you say tho when i get the new clutch fitted ill get both fluids and filters changed as it makes sense to ! Once again thank you for giving me a clear picture of what’s available and what else to look at :+1:

Wondering if I should indulge in an upgrade seeing as I’ll be doing the DSG and rear diff service as well as the JHM lightweight flywheel upgrade. The trans will already be out is my mindset.

Would really make a lot of logistical sense to do it when the transmission is out, especially if the fluid is being serviced.

I know Oleg is selling his stage 3 Deka, but wondering if the stage 2 kit is the best bang for your buck.

WHY is Oleg selling his stage 3 clutch? He’s only had it for a few months…

He blew 4th gear. Check his IG, he has a vid and some pics. He has it listed on the other site.

Yeah i see he was selling his stage 3 $1800 his done 5k on it a new one from Deka is $1950 im thinking stage 2 would be the best one to go for and its still cheaper than Olegs kit ?

Hold off on the Deka kit. Rumor has it the stage 3 won’t hold any more hp than the OEM set. So not worth the money.

Oh dear that’s not good news is that why Oleg is getting shot of his ? Was the stage 3 clutch slipping at around 700 to 800nm of torque then ? That’s not good at all :confused:

Off topic a bit but just wanted to know what sort of mileage do the OEM clutches wear out does anyone know ?

Who makes the Kevlar clutch plates and where do you get these from also do you know what the break-in procedure is for these ?


This is where my head is at, at this point. I’d love to do this now, but would be willing to wait for a kevlar offering.

Right now I honestly don’t know. I didn’t ask which is my fault. I’ll be talking to him again here soon and will likely go visit the shop within a month if the infection rate here doesn’t tick up again.

No worries! I still have some time, plus if it doesn’t happen now I’ll schedule it for the next fluid change. I’m sure I could easily find something else to spend that money on :rofl:

Yes I’m thinking the same thing !! Be interesting to know what’s happened to Olegs car ??