Sorry forgot to post I found the info. Upstream is by motor if anyone else wanted to know.
They are cheapest of any other place incase anyone wants a new set if/when they do JHM DP’s. Oddly enough the last place i suspected which I wont name yet cuz I still need the work done is willing to install the downpipes but they want 700$…
Is it possible to get the DP’s off without having the car on a lift?
Yes you can do it on jack stands, you want the car fairly high…
It will be slightly easier for since you have a manual
So off the Bosch parts finder site it says a For 02 3.0 the Sensor is 17353,
And then the cheapest place I found it from a quick google was fcpeuro for 81$, but they are saying its not the correct part, So i double check with a different site just for shits, and it still says its the wrong part. SO whos wrong here the site selling it or Bosch??
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-volkswagen-oxygen-sensor-17353
This site is retarded, when you enter your car it says it doesn’t fit, but then under the fitment tab it lists the 3.0…
Also I was looking on ebay for the o2 sensor spacer and theres a few different ones, does anyone know which one I need for the JHM downpipes???
Edit- 034 sells the spacers, and 17353 17113 is the correct o2 sensor for the 3.0 for the front
Just so I am clear on this.
What are you refering to as “Downpipes”?
you have your engine, with two cyliner banks in a V…3 cylinders on the left, and 3 on the right. Each bank has exhaust ports on the side that spit out exhaust gases. They go from the engine block to an exhaust manifold. Then, from the exhaust manifold, two 4 foot long pipes (one on each side) feed down towards the underside of the ca. Two PIPES feed DOWN. Downpipes.
They continue on till they mate up with the ‘cat-back’ part of the exhaust. The catback is basically, from the cats back. On our cars (A4/S4/RS4 for the B6/7 six and eight cyl models) the cats are actually on the downpipes. Cats are catalytic converters, an emissions requirement that converts toxic fumes into toxic fumes that the government is ok with lol.
People refer to their cat-back as their ‘exhaust’…but really the whole system is the ‘exhaust’. Manifolds, downpipes, catback.
Didn’t need to be that elaborate.
http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h411/halo549b/b6b7_down_pipe2.jpg
Most sites/places refer to the part marked in red as downpipes.
When in fact everything in this PIC are the downpipes.
Who made those downpipes?
Where do the peices in the red boxes connect to?? the end of the downpipe? I’m pretty sure just the larger pipes are the downpipes.
Are those cats?? on the left end of each of the larger pipes?
lol turns out I did
They are Labree CATS.
http://labreemotorsports.com/products_vw.html
http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h411/halo549b/b6b7_down_pipe3.jpg
Red bolts to red & blue bolts to blue.
Sorry to change the subject but im thinking about throwing cats back onto my car but im having a hard time finding one thats a california converter. (The one that was originally on it was a california). i dont even live in cali im from washington state. will it even matter whether or not i get a california cat or can i just buy a 49 state cat now?
Sooo what’s the deal with aluminum exhausts as opposed to stainless steel? Someone mentioned it to me as a much cheaper alternative. Outside of the potential to rust what are other drawbacks?
^aluminized steel?
Yes sorry I meant aluminized.
To answer your question I would say ask Labree or JH Motorsports.
taylorgang11: To answer your question Labree Motorsports makes all 50 states legal CATS.
http://www.labreemotorsports.com/contact.html
Both are located in California.
aluminized steel is just normal steel that is dipped in aluminum. The aluminum forms a passivization layer of aluminum oxide which protects the steel from the formation of iron oxides. The Al layer is thin and if disrupted (welding, scratches) will no longer provide the protection.
Undisturbed it does a pretty good job of eliminating corrosion:
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i293/beemercer/Aluminized_Steel_Oxidation_over_TIme.png
I’d personally go with stainless because the corrosion protection is a result of a integral part of the metallurgy (chromium oxide passive layer). You can do aluminized, just be sure to cover up any bare metal spots/welds with an aluminized paint.
does anyone know how many o2 sensors the JHM DP’s require?
and which sensor does it use? cuz 3.0’s front and rear sensors are different so i’m a bit confused since there is no cat to have a rear sensor, so is there just one for each? and I’m guessing it uses the front o2’s…
can anyone confirm??
I’d suspect it will have bungs for both front and rears for people who get them without a tune. If its like the older 4.2s the sensors are the same front and rear, only the wiring changes (ie you can splice a rear into the front harness and it should work fine).
I’m confused, how can their even be a rear with no cat to have a rear?
you just put it in the pipe, look at the 4.2 downpipes
the car needs to have 2 o2 sensors (per side), cats or not. The catlayst efficiency code (that notices the cat isn’t working very well…no shit, it’s not there) can be tuned out in the calibration.