Finally found my perfect v10

A6 All/ S6 All
#1

Coming from the STG 3 2.7t nightmares, I am looking for a different style of money pit…

I was specifically looking for a V10 w/ ACC and a new intake manifold. Instead I got a new engine and Audi installed the old and broken original IM. Car has 120K, engine replaced at 60K, and I installed a new IM at 125K. ;D

Tech & Winter Package - CF Trim - ACC - Stasis SE12 20x9 - Michellin 275/35/20 - AMI w/ OE BT - 4610 MMI - C6 RS6 BBK w/ AP 390mm Discs - JHM Tune, IM Spacers, Heater and SAI Bypass - K&N Filters

Few weeks after I bought the car, nothing done but wheels:

https://i.imgur.com/x6b2Jcc.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/MlfmAvB.jpg

Many months after owning the car, repainted hood, bumper, fenders and paint correction rear 2/3rds car 3 times - Full Front suntek clear bra full kit:

https://i.imgur.com/NVmjlxg.png

https://i.imgur.com/69AUVti.jpg

Items I have done since purchase

Purchased new ACC heater plate. (Only to be used in Winter and swap out broken one for summer time)
Installed the 275s from my D3 - YES they Fit, I have about 6mm on inner front upright. Sorta never rub
4 oil flushes 118K - 126K
Replaced Fuel Filter - old one did not have dirt / sludge inside (good sign)
Headlight & LED strip & re-clear
Rear OE Rotors / Pads - 120K
Fixed ACC coding so it works
Updated to 4610 MMI
Installed AMI
Installed OE BT module for music streaming (4F0051510J) - Did not use USB Flash Drive Update!
New Front Filler plate - 4F0807285K1QP - Re-painted Phantom Black @ 125K w/ bumper
VCDS Tweaks: Windows Comfort, ROW Lighting, Seat Belt Chime, Backup Graphical Display w/ Camera
New OEM Coolant Reservoir - 121K
Brake Fluid Flush - 121k
New Spark Plugs - 121K
New Front BBK - Hawk HPS Street, C6 RS6 Calipers, AP Racing 2-Piece LW 390mm Rotors. - 123K
Amber Bumper Mod --> Black - 123K
2010+ Chrome Push Start - 123K
Front Sway Bar Bushings - 123K
New Battery - Northstar AGM Light Weight Size 48 “properly coded in w/ VCDS” - 123K
Replaced front drivers side axle with used OEM. (Busted the inner boot on original) - 123K
Replaced Drivers Head Light rear cover “no more condensation inside” - 125K
Replaced Washer Reservoir o-ring - 125K
Replaced all oil filter housing o-rings, figure 8 o-ring, PVC return flat gasket - 125K
SAI, kombis, solenoid, filter delete - 125K
Paint-corrected entire car. Clay, buff, polish, seal -125K
Sanded and professionally had the front bumper, filler plate, fenders, and hood re-painted -125K
Carbon Clean & dry fire w/ spark plugs out cleaned bores -125K
Replaced VVT Solenoid O-Rings - 125K
New Hitachi Injectors - 125K
New Intake Manifold - 125K
JHM IM spacers - 125K
Intake / Separator Heater Del - 125K
Cleaned radiator behind AC condenser & re-painted black with SEM flat black - 125K
Plastic Coolant T fitting replaced w/ brass from JHM - 125K
K&N Air Filters “fit like a glove” - 125K
New OE Serp. Belt - 125K
Clear Bra Full front kit - SunTek - 125K

Items to Do

Leatherique seats - asap while it is still hot out
Ceramic Coat Entire Car - likely never “mixed reviews”
PS fluid flush - need to figure out how to do so
Trans Flush - before this car sees a track will do
New Right Rear parking sensor - likely will never fix

Stage 2 / Phase 2 Wish List

Drop engine
Trans filter
Cat delete / headers
JHM Cat-Back
Coil Overs
Drivers Seat
Rear 2-piece rotors

Services Done Prior to purchase Full 12 page .pdf HERE

PS Rack and Servotronic Module - 4F1422052S - 2868 miles
5K Mileage SVC - Oil Change -6830 miles
15K Mileage SVC - Cabin Filter, Engine Filter, Oil Change - 17168 miles
Right Headlight Washer replaced - 4f0955102 - 19440 miles
Battery replaced - 000915105AK - 37946 miles
Low Fuel Pressure Sensor replaced - 06e906051k - 37946 miles
35K SVC - 37946 miles
Brake Fluid Flush - 44929 miles
Lower Intake Manifold motor replaced - 07L129086B - 45472 miles (removed radiator & re-install)
45K SVC - 45472 miles
All (10) Coil Packs replaced under “Recall” - 06E905115E - 55874 miles
PCV / Oil Seperator replaced - 079103464D - 62549 miles
Drivers Side Window Switches replaced - 4f0959851g - 62549 miles
Engine replaced (and everything else required for this repair) - 07L100031AX - 63290 miles
Water Pump replaced - 07C121599A - 63290 miles
Water Pump Hoses replaced - 4F0121109AD & 4F0121109AC - 63290 miles
Vacuum System Line replaced - 07L201935 - 64989 miles
HPFP replaced - 07L127026A - 65153
Carbon Fiber Trim Front Left replaced - 4f0867410M - 67152
Carbon Fiber Dash Trim replaced - 4f0867410M - 67152
ECM Power Relay replaced - 4h0951253 - 71675
Battery replaced - 000915105D** - 86119 miles
Front Passanger Air Bag recall - 110739 miles

(appears to be some missing maintenance records from 87K - 110K…)

As with all old audis, gotta do the headlights. Sand w/ 400 --> 800 --> KwikClean --> Tack Cloths --> (4) coats of US Chem Clear 2K Aerosol Spray. Turned out perfect

https://i.imgur.com/65TVatE.jpg

New Coolant Resevoir installed @ time of spark plugs ~ 121K:

https://i.imgur.com/x7uYHkP.jpg

Polished Tips. Tips were completely brown/black. Honestly my FAVORITE about these classic S cars are the staggered/ off-camber, oval tips. When I re-do exhaust, I plan to use the same tips for the OE feel

https://i.imgur.com/Ky0PInM.jpg

Next, The rear rotors were shot!!! I bought the car during the dark and actually put about 400 miles on the car with the rotors like this. Scary… Front are fine

OLD:

https://i.imgur.com/bigXKlW.jpg

New:

https://i.imgur.com/ZRgjNlP.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Qovy350.png?1

While I was at it I figured since the brakes looked like this, I wonder what the oil looks like… Well here is a picture of the oil coming out after the SECOND FLUSH. It is currently on its third change in 100 miles and starting to look like oil again.

Doing 5 full flushes with the Rotwella T6 prior to moving toward my A3/B4 Castrol Euro Oil w/ some BGMOA

https://i.imgur.com/HmQKzNT.jpg

Oil now looking better on 3rd flush:

https://i.imgur.com/JxAvX20.jpg

#2

Here is what I did to fix my ACC

I had two ACC problems / codes inhibiting cruise control from working at all. I had the following codes:

02002 - Heater for Distance Regulation Sensor (Z47)
009 - Open or Short to Ground
00234 - Sensor for Automatic Distance Regulation Misadjusted
000 - - - Intermittent

Using what this dude did here. So for now since my heater is broken (cracked from a rock from previous owner), until I feel like replacing it, I will code it out:

I dont have the heater in the licence plate holder so to avoid the error go to Adaptation Ch.03 and save “0” as the new value. This means “Heater OFF”. Value “1” means Heater ON.

Next to fix the mis-alignment I did what this guy did here. Basically re-set everything. Note, Channel 3 gave me an error but I think it is because I disabled the heater:

[i]Group 002 block1 is horizontal alignment and block 2 is vertical alignment.

Group 11 block 1 is Steering angle sensor. and group 11 block 2 is lateral yaw rate offset.

According to elsa both the beam alignment angles have to be 0.5 degrees or less to function error free.

I had readings of over 2 degrees after a run, but on the next run out it was less, I think it relearns on every drive so the readings may be way off if you journey had a lot of bends in it.

To clear the values one must perform a basic setting to allow the radar to relearn the offsets.

Do this by selecting basic setting then press the go button next to 001
Then press the on/off/next button twice
Then manual change the group value box to 002 and perform the same steps
Repeat this process for 003 and 004
Press Done,Go back and close the controller
Ignition off wait for a bit then go for a drive and see if it works.
[/i]
The Result? Works!!! :slight_smile:

#3

https://i.imgur.com/iU2iimZ.png

Well from the looks of it, I am not able to edit any old posts since I have had 150 posts. So anyway…
EDIT: GOD gave me access… 8)

I wanted to add to the To Dos

JHM Intake Spacers - waiting till intake clean / SAI / Tune, all at once
New Front Filler plate - 4F0807285K1QP - ON ORDER

#4

Adaptive Cruise control! That’s badass man.

#5

Bad ass great post welcome to the v10 party. The 5.2 is a great motor fun car very exciting when you add a few JHM mods. Your mod list is the platform to follow. Looking forward to more.

Thanks again for sharing.

#6

justincredible thanks man! It is just a different kind of animal all together and a little bit of sophistication.

Certainly love the torque available down in the 1Ks. Trust me there will be much more!

#7

So last night I coded my Parking Module: 76 from from 0021306 --> 0221306 (show car in corner with sensors)

As you can see it worked last night, now this morning it is just camera again, not car visual… Not sure why yet…

https://i.imgur.com/nE0hEOe.jpg

I have a sneaking suspicion that the following codes are inhibiting my rear sensors from fully working thus the failure of the graphic on the backup screen.

01548 - Sensor for Parking Aid; Rear Right (G206)
009 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
01549 - Supply Voltage for Parking-Aid Sensor
009 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
01548 - Sensor for Parking Aid; Rear Right (G206)
004 - No Signal/Communication
01549 - Supply Voltage for Parking-Aid Sensor
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

#8

Sweet dude loooking good bro. I think the guy thats going to be doing your software for tcu ecu is on here somewhere i dunno its been awhile since ive been on AR. I’m sure he will chime in and the other experts on here.

Definitly lots of knowledgable guys on here too you picked the right spot to post your build. If you want to reminence of the old days my B6 build (RIP) is in the B6 section.

#9

I had a multitude of codes like you do; they were all due to an old/non coded battery. My dealer is actually the same price as autozone for that battery and the bonus is they properly code in the params into VDCS as part of the purchase price.

#10

Im getting quiescent currents 1-6 so I know there is an issue, same in the D3, new battery fixed it. I’m going to be putting a new battery in next week. The old battery however is only 4 years old…

I agree with you about the battery!

Got the front grill to make it look like a real s6 and somehow the car is faster too :wink:

https://i.imgur.com/LO0VUln.png

https://i.imgur.com/sF2OFHN.jpg

#11

So the next project was to get AMI retrofitted. This post is a bit pic intensive. I decided to cut the glove box and intall the q7 ami there with the $30 ebay harness

https://i.imgur.com/lrcOB2P.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/QW9bWIX.jpg

Put it back in the car and it did not work. MOST bus can saw the AMI but MMI did not, I thought 2750 SW was good enough for AMI, it was not, 3660 is required. Updated to 4610. You can go from 2750 (no lower) to 4160 with MMI CD2 only and thats it! No need to risk updating your Bluetooth Phone (handydorv2) if it is working. People have reported failure of the BT module after doing so, I left mine. BT phone (handydorv2) is MMI CD3. MMI CD1 is from low SW like 0400 to get you to 3660.

https://i.imgur.com/g8RpS5Z.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ZBtf1tK.jpg

Worked and AMI showed up in sources . Next tried USB 32G usb flash drive, worked. Next tried my the very rare OE BT audi adapter that I bought last week (I did not use the usb update flash drive that came with the OE BT) and here are a few pics for those who have not seen this in action. It works great. Also being an audiophile, I will ensure the clarity is as good as necessary.

https://i.imgur.com/W1mNmDH.png

https://i.imgur.com/nNxSQzc.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/QbSqwbU.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/MkKkGXh.jpg

I being ocd love the cleaniness of seeing AUDI media interfaces on my cell phone, makes it feel like it was built this way…You can skip pandora, music library, and youtube (all I have tried) hands free. Pauses music when you turn off MMI or turn of car. Re-starts music when you re-start car or MMI

#12

Can you do a step by step with pics on how you did the update?

#13

I have added some minor details above…

What SW level are you on?

With pics would take me a bit of time, but I have done it once on a 2004 D3 and then again on my C6 with the same CDs. The CDs for both platforms (possibly A4 w/ MOST) will use the same CDs. This is NOT DIFFICULT. Dont let others scare you or say your are going to brick your MMI. My .02

This is a good reference from an S6 guy

Here is me doing it on my D3

Excellent Resource!!

People state that we need of at least 3660 (and 2005+ NAV DVD) prior to (4610), for me CD1 would not work and gave me this error message:

https://i.imgur.com/ChFuPOi.jpg

So I tried CD 2 which showed 2750 --> 4610, scroll to the bottom, press start download. Walk away and pray everything is ok. I dont like to watch it as I believe it gives the MMI anxiety.

I came back 20 minutes later and it was updated to 4610, restarted MMI, and AMI appeared.

To Get to the SW-INDEX screen you hold (1st) SETUP, then press (RETURN) immediately after until the SW-INDEX appears. Then here you can click INTERFACE BOX (or other MOST modules to see their current SW level) and see your SW version. Viewing your SW version can also be done from the main MMI Car Screen button (VERSION), but only for the MMI not other MOST devices

I am welcome to assist if you have any questions. It is not complicated, but fearful at first. I almost freaked when the D3 didnt update at first…

CD PNs Here:
CD1: 4F0 906 961AB
CD2: 4F0 998 961
CD3: MMI DISC 3 “bluetooth update” - Dont do this as it can sometimes brick the Phone BT

The US update discs are hard to find, some folks have them. You can find them on ebay for the EU version to 5570 (dont do this or US cars!!!, we want 4610) Search Term: “MMI UPDATE CD 2g 4610”

#14

Do you know or have part numbers for the AMI units that work?

#15

ANY AMI w/ MOST will work (q7, d3, c6, some new b8s). NO AMI w/ CAN will work.

I trolled ebay till I found one for $225, offered $205 for a 4E0035785F

The non OEM wiring harness is labeled “Kabelsatz CD-Wechsler Lichtwellenleiter Radio Navi Audi MMI 2G Plug Play AMI”

#16

Alright. Now since I once blew a turbo from an exploding porcelain part spark plug on my old ar, my friend burning through an exhaust valve from a plug tip coming off, I felt it wise to do an inspection / replacement of mine immediately.

Pulled these this morning as my new NGK 5547’s showed up last night. I was praying for some consistency in color, all appear to be “optimal in color” besides CYL (2) which looks a bit rich. For the age of these I am going to be happy they lasted as long as they did.

From the Corona Stains, defiantly old! Atleast they used the correct plug 1101905621B = PFR6W-T (6740)

As usual, pics:

Numbered 1 --> 10 (Left --> Right)

https://i.imgur.com/Z6Ec46g.jpg

Lil oil on the threads of 6, 7, and 8…?..

https://i.imgur.com/TVOja8q.jpg

Cylinder 5 and Cylinder 10 close up. Nothing looks concerning

https://i.imgur.com/O9ofJP5.jpg

Compression Test

Ok so for what is it worth, prior to new plugs I ran a compression test with the pos o’reilly rental compression tester. I have once tried 3 of these and gotten different results with all 3 rentals lol. I “wetted” o-ring, opened throttle plates, and on a cold block, got 170PSI (±8 psi per cyl) Cylinders 8 and 2 were the lowest. Now this is obviously not science as the block was cold, I just wanted to see what the deviation between cylinders was. I am comfortable w/ the results.

I AM NOT doing this HOT (until I have a solid reason or the opportunity arises) as taking these damn coil packs out and plug change for me was a multi hour job! Took 4 hours longer than it should have, being my first time on the V10. But I did put in a new coolant expansion tank too :slight_smile:

Seems to run the same if not better with the new plugs.

#17

Great stuff! The coil packs arent so bad once you get used to them. I have one or two that are so tight you actuqlly have to push forward before the retaining tab will lift off. I did my driver’s side bank twice in the same night because a shop towel snuck its way into my valve cover gasket :stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes: (and I did all 16 bolts…twice :persevere:)

#18

RE: The AMI

I just bought this for my 2007 A6 wagon, since it did not have the AMI

https://i.imgur.com/riOV97b.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/9854JsN.jpg

Cheap at $80, Not sure many are around but worth looking for.

#19

Interesting, I am keen to see how that works out for you. Will you install it in the trunk then?

I simply just need the OEM stuff for “clean” status. But that is cool that it goes with the MOST bus!!

#20

Lowest amount of codes out of any audi I have ever owned, I plan to keep it that way!!!

Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 4F0-910-043.clb
Part No SW: 4F0 910 043 HW: 4F1 820 043 AC
Component: KLIMABETAETIGUNGH20 0170
Revision: 00000030 Serial number: 00000030145101
Coding: 0524330
Shop #: WSC 02325 785 00200
VCID: 5BF653229A20A09A89-800E

1 Fault Found:
01592 - Air Quality Sensor (G238)
010 - Open or Short to Plus
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101010
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 158
Mileage: 196262 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2019.01.23
Time: 20:08:04

         Freeze Frame:
                Temperature: 27.0°C

Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 4F0-910-289.lbl
Part No SW: 4F0 910 289 G HW: 4F0 907 289 G
Component: Komfortgeraet H22 0170
Revision: 01700022 Serial number: 01016404270000
Coding: 4618397
Shop #: WSC 02335 785 00200
VCID: 2E10CAF6B91265321E-807A

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1K0 951 605 C
Component: LIN BACKUP HORN H03 1301

1 Fault Found:
01134 - Alarm Horn (H12)
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101100
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 254
Reset counter: 158
Mileage: 145276 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2014.10.22
Time: 08:54:00

Address 77: Telephone Labels: 4E0-910-336.lbl
Part No SW: 4F0 910 336 D HW: 4E0 862 335
Component: Handyvorb2 H00 0700
Revision: 00000000 Serial number: 00000000000000
Coding: 0000000
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 240428DEE7DEDF62F8-8070

1 Fault Found:
01042 - Control Module; Not Coded
000 - -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 158
Mileage: 196262 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2019.01.23
Time: 20:08:05

Oddly, the phone and horn work fine lol