The S6 is a super solid car do your maintenance and you will be GTG for a long time.
Finally after about 2 months of brake fitment checks and downtime “discussed here,” I was able to successfully bed my C6 RS6 front 6-Pots a few days ago. Today, after some 100-30 hard pedal stops, I have to say, DAMN!! These do work well!!
The pedal modulation is absolutely phenomenal. I have stock ABS coding right now, possibly going to try euro RS6 coding, but doubtful it will be necessary given the disc size is ~ the same. I may tinker with it…
AP Racing 2-Piece Rotors, HAWK HPS 5.0s, and AP Racing / 2 Piece true floating discs
https://i.imgur.com/kA7sM2e.png
https://i.imgur.com/cX7Ppij.jpg
Next is battery, JHM tune, and new IM w/spacers in that order… Unless something brakes in the mean time 
don’t go and jinx yourself now 
LOL right…
Great update the rotors look huge… really great mod list you will find each step you take with the mods you listed turn the car more and more into a real true hot rod with all the added up side of also having a nice usable sedan
I need a new IM + tune as well, but I’ve delayed that until I can get the car running without faults for at least 3 months. Not there yet–but lately all my problems have been electrical.
Right now I’m running an IM with the changeover flaps removed. And I’m in the land of inexpensive garage labor, so if I pull the trigger on a new IM, it’s best to get it done before I ship the car out. But I haven’t pulled the trigger because in the back of my mind I’m worried the extra load will just cause something else to fail. gotta get over that…
But tell me how it goes with JHM tune first, then the new IM. The CW seems to be IM first to get the car fully operational, then add the tune.
BTW, thx for the MMI SW update tip. It went smoothly.
Sweet I am glad the MMI went smoothly for you! I love my streaming BT and AMI. All works quite nicely. I feel ya on the maintenance man, its is part of audi life.
Currently my “Perfect V10” has a belly pan that looks like this. I removed the fender liners and belly pan and pressure washed the hell out of the car to find the leaks. Leaks are just part of buying a used audi / owning a used audi. Rather have a few super slow leaks that need repair vs driving a new kia or something. For me, ill live with it for now vs potentially dropping the engine for 3K. It took me over a year to get my allroad leak free. Total pita! Least I only have oil leaks and no coolant leaks.
Here are the primary problems with this car:
-
2 oil leaks causing fumes in the cabin when not in re-circ mode. Obviously oil dripping on the exhaust. One leak is towards the front of the engine, one near the rear. Outer cam solenoids are not wet, have not checked inner solenoids. Probably the oil filter housing gaskets, doubt it is those rear chain covers
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Misfires when super cold outside during enrichment cycle on 4 and 8. Used to be more cylinders, but after some PEA treatments this has smoothed out a bit. Assuming no carbon cleaning since engine replacement 8 years ago.
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IM is original and change over flaps are broke, tumbler flaps are OK (if anyone wants them, Ill keep them for a while) Car seems to have plenty of power especially at this elevation according to my MAF logs. Engine is healthy imo, as well mentioned with my compression results being positive…
So I think that I am going to do my IM first, then I can further diagnose the oil leaks. Pop off the front and do the IM and oil diag all at once. Some time this summer. Gotta collect all the parts first…
Before:
https://i.imgur.com/Jlilod8.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4arwRFA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/LnKv0OS.jpg
After:
https://i.imgur.com/F0dGctM.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/M3how33.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/1WvoQBQ.jpg
Hey, least it looks good to the un-suspecting. Oh yea, also found that my sway bar bushings where the mount to the subframe are shot. Put on the list!
So on a lighter note, here is a an eariler pic of the brakes fully broken in. I am quite pleased as I continue to mention. But this was quite the endevor for me and did raise my blood pressure at times. I got the wheels re-balanced and alignment w/ -.02 toe IN. Very happy with the results.
https://i.imgur.com/PNtB8NR.png?1
Test fitted the stock 19s and they rotated on both sides. Clearance from caliper is ~ 5mm, w/ wheel weight where it is in the pic ~2mm. Ill be running these beater wheels next winter on a fatter tire than the stock 265/35
Got the Smaller “but still within spec” size 48 Northstar Pro AGM on sale for $150. This battery is ~ 1/2 the weight as the original one. My cold start / morning cyl 4 and cyl 8 misfires went away. Took out the spare tire, turns out it was flat this whole time, nice.
https://i.imgur.com/rqk9VFr.jpg
Sourced a $20 push button off ebay for looks
https://i.imgur.com/DqRG3H0.jpg
Blacked out the ambers on the bumper, was sick of the orange look. ROW coding made them inoperable anyhow.
https://i.imgur.com/iUBDof1.jpg
The next stuff is going to be major. Service position, remove old IM, diag and repair slow oil leak, new IM, IM spacers, SAI del, tune…
That’s the big jump in performance the next step. Car is looking good.
So the “Perfect V10” has finally fallen into the “C6 5.2 Extreme Resto Project” Yea buddy : 
Show some photos to see what was, later will show what has become. But for today, I am not gonna lie. Pissed, trying to replace the blown FL CV axle from the damn auto cross turned to a nightmare. New spindle, etc is now in order. Add it to the list, least they are are cheap but add an easy 2 hours to the job…
Cut it and got about 5 threads out:
https://i.imgur.com/04bbIVQ.jpg
The snap:
https://i.imgur.com/606Mswo.jpg
I think the bolt was bent, CAs are new so maybe a bad or bent spindle area (car had great alignment and tire wear prior) So I dont know, just replace the part…
Now on to the positive stuff:
First this all started with a clay bar, paint correct, and seal, etc from my buddy A43Go6MT who spent at least 25 hours on paint correction. Car looks new
https://i.imgur.com/HBKnQaf.jpg
Finished Product “best pic”:
https://i.imgur.com/ilvaouY.jpg
Then OCD made me re-paint bumper fenders and hood:
https://i.imgur.com/ph4Ynz7.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/cKTphqZ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/e6F0OUm.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/I9FwBUG.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/S2HP00e.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/UWDMWwB.jpg
I have all the painted parts back (painted by owner Dave at Streamline Auto Body, Reno NV), laying around my house next to the unused pool table and such haha, last parts to install…
They need to degass for 6 weeks before I can clear braw and re-install the v10 emblems.
Now a quick update on the the list of engine work. I have updated the list at the beginning of this thread
Was:
https://i.imgur.com/ymF25k9.jpg
Not bad for 65K:
https://i.imgur.com/2uOeUgb.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/WeGs3ld.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/nam0vq7.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Esazk6Q.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/yVcwrD6.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/VLxSFcO.jpg
Is all perfectly cleaned and all gaskets replaced. No slime anywhere. New injectors in in, etc…
https://i.imgur.com/GxuvP0j.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/WdOkvMR.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/JjoecvF.jpg
More to come. Hopefully new IM goes in tonight…
Inspirational progress…
When putting in the intake manifold don’t forget to take off the motor pull brackets. The black brackets in the front and back of the motor connected to the block and cylinder heads.
Still have not put the IM on yet, am going to tonight after work. Finally have her ready and prepped. So you are saying the rear lift points also need to be removed? I did not remove these when pulling the old IM, just front ones. How would you re-install those rear motor lift points (8 point tripple square bolts) with the IM in there?
Just the front brackets need be removed, rears stay.
Thank you Greg, I got the IM installed and drivers side fuel lines. Dropped a a torx bit down the back of the im on the left side, gonna have to get a “flexy” magnet to get it out…
https://i.imgur.com/AX9T92y.jpg
Anyone by chance have a picture of how the passengers side fuel lines are routed? I bent mine slightly removing the IM and they are off a little bit on the lines rubber mounting brackets.
You don’t NEED to take off the rear ones. I modify the brackets to make install of the intake easier. You will see what that means when working to get the fuel lines on. I don’t have a picture. I should have taken one. YOU NEED to remove the front ones.
How’re you liking those rotors? Are they lightweight/difference from stock? Looking into getting some red RS6 brembos next year.
I absolutely love these rotors and for the price I would not choose differently. Rotors only ~$1300 and calipers were $800. I had to machine 8mm spacers from round bar and longer bolts from the dodge charger to mount the calipers perfectly center on the disc. Not plug n play… If you do this MAKE SURE YOU PAINT PEN THE CALIPER BOLTS!
The rotors from AP racing use the H-Type Brembo bobbins with silencers “bobbin anti-vibration shims”. The silencers will wear over time. Many track cars do not use the shims as they are optional, “no shims = noise and better allowance for expansion of the disc” I am also just running a hawk street pad with vibration / anti-squeal weights and there is absolutely NO noise from the brakes. It was hard to break them in as the heat dissipation is so excellent. I had to go a little overboard on break in to cook them.
The modulation is 3x better than the floating stock calipers imo. I did not have to abs code anything and I am quite pleased. Also running the stock 330mm rear I feel the biasing is still relatively equal to not need re-coding “if that is even possible.” I asked on the RS6 Euro forums for RS6 abs coding but I dont think those guys actually work on their own cars lol.
I chose to keep the 330s in the rear for weight saving and not go 356 like rs6/rs7. I am going to put a 2 piece 330mm in the rear with stock caliper --> future $750 cost
Like I mentioned in the other thread, calipers were $800 - C6 RS6 / C7 RS7 (similar to and same pad as Benz 63s, ZL1, Aston Martin, GT-R, CTS-V, etc)
Discs, bells, and hardware - $1240 shipped + $41 in Duties - AP Racing / Loba, 390x36
From calculations the Loba two piece 390s are 29Kg (64LBS) VS stock S6 385s which are 76 lbs, so savings of 6 lbs per side (+ -). Caliper is slightly lighter than stock, maybe 3 lbs per side.
Note: If you plan to do this you can source the calipers from other cars. I found the C63 to be the most available, you will likely need a new caliper bracket for the audi but that is tbd. From what I researched these calipers work on a range of rotor sizes from 365-410 mm. For example, AP sells the 410 kit for the V10TT C6 using the same caliper but 410mm AP disc. I opted out as that is more weight and not needed for my application.
My board at work ramble:
So update on the build, car has been down now for about 2 months. I work on it so infrequently, it has really been dragging ass. I have all the parts now to put the freshly painted panels back after I pressure washer under them. Also want to clean leaves in plenum chamber.
As you can see I had the manifold on, then I was informed to remove the intake port air straighteners as they are “carbon magnets.” So took the IM off, removed carbon magnets and IM back on. Throttle bodies, and wired up the engine. While doing this I broke the breather hose so replaced with heater hose, Looks very OE to me. Also w/ the SAI delete a lot of re-routing of the vacuum lines and wire harnesses to be neat and tidy.
https://i.imgur.com/AyZnyUE.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/uJ3PLRK.jpg
Next, I was informed I need to remove all 10 spark plugs and dry pump the car with a vacuum on the spark plug holes. This will help inhibit any extra walnut shells that may have made their way into the piston. I was informed that these walnut shells could damage your cats if they get caught in the cats…
Next, is the pita steering knuckle that has the broken bolts mentioned previously. I was able to finally get the old one off (remove caliper, rotor, lower CAs, upper shock tower), swapped bearings and the new knuckle is ready to go in w/ new upper CAs. First need to clean where the old CV axle made a mess (walnut / grease mixture ugh)
If I do a carbon clean EVER again Im going use the JHM drill brush again. Much easier. I spent at least 8+ extra hours screwing around with the walnut blaster and clean up, etc. Not worth it unless you have a quality blaster and a huge quality compressor.
Also, considering re-locating the horn to where the SAI Pump used to be as there is space and that will give more air over the grills…