This is such a great post!
I really like that you include partnumbers in your first post, please keep doing it!
Regarding the MMI update, I went to Audi here in Denmark and they wouldn’t advise me to update the MMI because it worked fine.
So why did you, and anyone else, update the MMI. Was there any benefit updating it?
Upgrading the MMI to 3G+ (or 3G if you’re pre-facelift and have 2G) adds additional features like Google Earth, wireless bluetooth connection for applications like music, better graphics, etc. The dealership will always recommend against any upgrades beyond factory or OEM to your vehicle. Everyone I know who’s upgraded their MMI has used real OEM parts anyway. It’s taking a dated Audi and bringing it up to speed with 2013-2016 tech. 
I’ll be personally upgrading my S6 '10 from 3G to 3G+ because it’s so easy and only $400. Ultimately, it’s up to you though!
Thanks for such a detailed response, and definitely taught me a thing or two about how extensive your rotors alone can be. This is going to be a Feb-Apr 2020 project, so we’ll see where things lead. I have JHM looking to see if they could replicate a LW rotor based off of the RS7 C7 390mm rotors, which I believe are a direct fit for the RS6 C6. And man 410mm are some massive rotors! Haha
All smart moves. lookin good.
I will try and continue to update w/ PNs as I go if I am able. Always feel free to inquire and I appreciate the kind words.
I needed to update the MMI so my OEM AMI would work. Also gives altitude on maps lol. I have the discs for all 2G MMI so it was a n big deal for me.
Anytime man. So in response to your statement above, take a look at the pics below. Now the calipers are the same yes C6 RS6 vs C7 RS7. However rotors are a whole different matter and they are not direct fitment the RS7 uses a completely different offset rotor vs the RS6 C6 and C6 S6. See below “front rotor” dimensions for the three cars…
C6 S6:
https://i.imgur.com/n9n4Kpa.jpg
C6 RS6:
https://i.imgur.com/7oV6q5s.jpg
C7 RS7:
By updating I ment to update the MMI via CD’s. Not sure that the 2G high could be updated to the 3G version via CD’s.
No it can not, you can only update to 4610 w/ the CDs. To go to 3G you need several new components. I have no idea about that mod as it is on my far away radar. When I did look into the 3G swap I realized the most difficult part for me was sourcing a 2008+ S6 cluster w/ ACC. I figured I could buy a regular A6 cluster w/ acc and swap gauge faces since it all has to be re-coded anyway. Some day one day.
Rather put those headers on first or at least gut the cats before any more martha stewart stuff happens
OK So… Car is officially done (yea right, audis are never “done”)
The picture of the belly pan above I have gotten almost to look new using that high PH car soap and it is re–installed along with the trans belly. Running the car with it off or a few days ruined both fender liners in front of the tires so those were replaced also!! Ugh. After painting the front, I wanted it clear bra. It is getting suntek put on today and then it will be my DD again! Very happy.
The JHM tune is absolutely NASTY. Mind you I am at 5K elevation here in Reno and this thing still rips WAY more than before. Cant forge’t I did a carbon clean, IM spacers, and new IM, but all combined there is a massive difference in performance.
I did the SAI delete and relocated the horn where the SAI pump used to be. After the car was complete I vacuumed the crap from the secondary firewall chamber and then ran a garden hose in there. Car drained water over both sides of the trans perfectly, so no drainage concerns. Still want to test and/or sunroof drains.
After it was all said and done the MMI didnt work! Pissed me off for sure. I finally caved and bought an unlimited vin hex net. We have ~6 vag cars so I might as well lol.
I did the Optical Bus Test and found this.
https://i.imgur.com/gdmI2vc.jpg
Then I put a MOST loop in the AMI and got this:
https://i.imgur.com/xXfhhGn.jpg
Then I removed the XM radio from the installation list, MOST loop in the Sirius/XM and received:
https://i.imgur.com/kODzdWT.jpg
Still showing AMI (or CD player) as ERROR but MMI and AMI work perfectly… So not sure why it says error but guess wont care…
More pics to come when it is out of the bra shop but I have completely transformed with paint correction and time the exterior deep black on this car. ~50-80 man hours have gone into this resto and I am quite pleased with the outcome thus far.
If you gut the cats, would you get CEL’s? Does JHM tune do anything to suppress the codes for catless setups? Thanks, and great work on the car. Just bought an S6 last Friday and want to follow in your footsteps.
I don’t believe you will, but could be wrong. The JHM ECU tune will rework the ECU and suppress some codes like the SAI delete. I can’t speak more highly of all the JHM parts. I’ve done everything short of their TCU tune, LW rotors and supercharger (which some of those are still in beta). Highly recommend! If you need to hear how the exhaust sounds, then I have a nice video of mine on IG.
The cool thing about the JHM tune is its adaptive. The more healthy the system is in say exhaust then intake and all over good running. The JHM tune hands down is the key to making the 5.2 a real 5.2. Most people think you can’t get power from a NA motor and I say most companies can’t but JHM has the formula… Fun with a flash.
Also fantastic to hear the car is up and running and running strong. I don’t know too much on the MMI so I’m sorry I won’t be able to be much help
GRS6 said it well.
The JHM tune doesn’t just turn off the CEL light it reworks how the system works with more flow. So your not just turning things off but having the system adjusted. You would probably need to ask specificly for that tune as I don’t know if its available outside of race applications.
Cool man! Nice job on picking up a V10 before it goes to a salvage yard because of a blown cat. I swear I have found 3 or 4 perfect S6 V10s in salvage yards just because of blown cats, cant smog, and far too expensive to fix a 14 year old car. No, if you drop the engine and drill out the cats you will get a CEL. After market tuning for track or off road use will often eliminate this CEL. There are two options. The super baller headers mentioned on your thread from v8a6 or gut your stockers. Both require engine drop
Below I have added some along the way build pics I took randomly. So much work was spent putting this car back together to look new again… I failed hard during the rebuild process and stripped / warped BOTH HPFP fittings. The large ones that are non-replaceable and come with the HPFPs! Thankfully the dealer was able to hook me up with some old ones of a blown 4.2 FSI they had out back for free. The new axle and knuckle took forever, I would say that blown axle cost me in total $600 (used axle, knuckle, and upper CAs) and 10 hours to repair. But done and done. Clear Bra is on and need to put the V10 badges on tonight with 3M # 08069, clean up the car a lil bit and take some exterior shots. Random Order:
Preliminary parts pile, new cabin filters, oil fitlter, IM, headlights, JHM spacers, double IM gaskets, new HIT injectors from FCP, etc…
https://i.imgur.com/ncJbbcs.jpg
Old Grill surround chrome was all bubbling and such, found a new OEM replacement for a 2005 a6 on ebay for $60
https://i.imgur.com/GpaiA0h.jpg
Painted grill with rustoleum 8 coats 
https://i.imgur.com/M2C2Sdm.jpg
New Chrome on painted grill
https://i.imgur.com/FyAuOqh.jpg
Installed on freshly painted bumper. Note, paint shop lost my tow hook cover
https://i.imgur.com/R3rRc6E.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/SdfX9kp.jpg
New knuckle, axle and new FL wheel bearing / axle catastrophe BS. Top axle inner boot you can see the tear. Replacement rusty axle from wolf auto, but is S6 part numbered
https://i.imgur.com/GzJVgwA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/CpJ0hqK.jpg
My friend’s Paint Correction “stuff”
https://i.imgur.com/rmeYKMH.jpg
Horn Re-location where SAI pump was
https://i.imgur.com/DTCds9S.jpg
Found some more original OEM parts! Like from 2007! :-\
https://i.imgur.com/Vn103KY.jpg
Sanded the hell out of the fogs again and re-cleared again to prep for clear bra
https://i.imgur.com/f2w5tCo.jpg
Symposer delete and all holes watertight sealed up
https://i.imgur.com/W7TOzJM.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/vDjJ4WF.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ftsWori.jpg
Old OEM stamped Hitachi injectors removed - likely 65K on them
https://i.imgur.com/OQFVNat.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/cW8cC6U.jpg
Painted the new IM, old y-pipe, and PCV bracket Cast Aluminum. JHM Heater DEL
https://i.imgur.com/Q1Be236.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/yVQbvTA.jpg
Re-taped rear S6 badge w/ 2" electrical tape “we’ll will see how this holds up”
https://i.imgur.com/2bN9kNF.jpg
High Temp Prime and paint the S flag on beauty cover
https://i.imgur.com/4yl0ycK.jpg
You want this tool if you put on your IM and then realize the fuel lines under / behind it are loose
https://i.imgur.com/cTDU5Ki.jpg
Engine PCV oil crush gasket, new figure 8 o-ring, and rear oil housing o-ring
https://i.imgur.com/7hycKaP.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/qqhRcWi.jpg
SAI pipe removed, new OEM serp belt, and re-routing of vac lines. Note upper left HPFP larger tube is off angle, this leaked and I had to replace this copper fitting mentioned above. The Fuel Pressure relief valve as they call it.
https://i.imgur.com/qOXjcsA.jpg
Windshield Washer reservoir modification and new o-ring to seal
https://i.imgur.com/pLXvEY4.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/fThNY05.png
Dog and blue balls
https://i.imgur.com/wRAalf2.jpg
Teaser Pic, more to follow
https://i.imgur.com/5KTgnyM.jpg
The next project for this weekend
Put the V10 badges back on over the clear bra after some trial and error I now realize how to use and how well the 3M Press in Place 08069 works!
https://i.imgur.com/cQK2xga.jpg
Now not cheap, but you do get a lot of tape for $50, around 6-8 cars worth. Simply peel back the paper and press on the badge firmly. Then I found an easier method not in the directions. Rub and peel off all the sticky tape around the badge so all remaining is the tape under the badge. This eliminates any additional tape / adhesive being around the badge when applied which is very difficult to remove once applied. I used an x-acto knife to cut them out and I am pleased with the results
https://i.imgur.com/M1miSLN.jpg
Once all the extra adhesive is off you can simply pull off the badge and stick it on the car.
https://i.imgur.com/8T5ILO1.jpg
I used a template from before I painted the fenders for this later alignment. They are on and very strong, easy peasy…
A few finished pics. Super pleased with the paint correction. Brought it back to a new car look for sure. Filler plate paint, as well the clear bra. The clear suntek bra looks so amazing now the rest of the car is requesting it!
https://i.imgur.com/WZ1P1cH.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/NVmjlxg.png
Hood Reflection… perf. black new car look.
https://i.imgur.com/47854A5.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/acMmAbq.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/bqnqwaC.jpg
And the Family Photo:
https://i.imgur.com/XMvJpff.jpg
Leatherique this weekend and then maybe no more car work for a while fingers crossed!
Plan to beat on the TT at autocross this weekend not the s6. Not replacing another mf axle lol.
Btw, if anyone need a spare drivers side paint corrected fender, I bought from a parts puller in a frantic moment and dont need it. It is not “perfect” 8 or 9/10 but can send more pics to anyone interested.
Looks beautiful.
Fantastic work. Really pays off. Great write up on the journey
That’s beautiful! Did you do the work yourself? I need to have some paint correction done myself.
what are the blue balls for?