Haha agreed! This car refuses to play nicely. Towing the car on a flatbed to get ceramic’d today. I will never tow on a flatbed without a front shield. Now in need of drivers side drl led strip. Ughh
I’m on my 2nd DRL replacement. Should be able to find new OEM on eBay for about $150.
Your car looks incredible.
Thanks wtmmm, time and pain. Pain & $ lol
I did find a used on for $175. I am going to live with it for a while as I took the supra gr off track last weekend and now need to put money into that car 
Got the phaeton brake ducts installed today. Straight direct fit with the rs6 calipers, no trimming or cutting required at all. Also clears the level sensor by 1cm at full lock. What I really like about these ducts is that they direct the air towards the hub so it can be vented through the vanes in the disc, not direct to the rotor like I have seen with some diy, causing the inside face of the rotors to be cooler than the outside.
Stock S6 Shields
Phaeton Shields
I want to install 2.5" ducts from the front lower intake vents that are not used. They are blocked off with exception to the one aux radiator. I’ll run them to feed the brake ducts. The oem rs6 has this feature.
I’ll do it clean, home brew but “a must do” to have full efficiency. When the car sits flat, you can see phaeton brake ducts do not clear under the car, maybe because mine is lowered more than a phaeton.
I know folks wants to always wants to go fast but after experiencing brake fade on the track with 3 different cars I desire brake mods.
Until that SC kit is released, I’ll want the go fast kit!!
Clean. What are the part numbers needed to do this brake duct mod, or the RS6 OEM swap?
Referenced here for a C5:
https://forum.rs246.com/viewtopic.php?t=61029
The shields are
3D0615311C & 3D0615312C
The ducts are
Left: 3D0615447E
Right: 3D0615448E
The ducts to go from the front of the bumper thru to the wheel liner I am going to home brew. Not ordering rs6 parts.
Just need something like 4 of these (two in the lower inlet grills and two in the fender liners feeding the brake) and some 1’ or so tubing
Got the car up on stilts yesterday as I work towards engine out PM. Here is a perfect example of what happens when you do not loosen the control arms and re tighten at the correct ride height when lowering the car. Had a mechanic do it, obviously he forgot to do this step. Want something done right, do it yourself.
My set of (5) stasis 20x9 et48 wheels are FS btw $1000 for the set. They also have ceramic coating on them about 800 miles ago. 1 wheel has some rash rest are near new condition
Ykes. Thats messed up.
Shipping to 17538🙈
Exactly. Do it yourself.
I’ll check with fedex. Assuming $50 p/wheel minimum
On order is all coolant hoses associated with the trans and trans coolers, new trans coolant thermostat hose and electric pump, lower rad hose, PS pump, (likely PS hoses also), lower CAs, (8) Bosch O2 sensors, FCP ATF kit, aircon canister and seals, trans cooler seals, new starter. Sure will be able to add to the list but currently at $4k + $500 for HF table and 28mm jack stands.
Next is to wire a 208 plug in my garage so I can weld in the pipes
Love it!!
Takes lots of pics and post. I’m right behind you starting in September.
Nice Lake!
I forgot to follow up on your question on the torque converter reman, and will call the mechanic tomorrow to find the contact.
Thanks! Installed my 240V outlet Sunday (easy),
Winded:
Lower CAs and ball joints off yesterday (hardest part), wiing harness (second hardest step imo), and hoses off yesterday, next step is to cut the wood for HYD table and drop it
This pic has me a bit concerned, I did have a lumpy cold start idle and would sometimes get misfire codes if I didnt get to driving immediately. Sometimes if so, car would buck as reported by some other owners here… Cleared and didnt return, very intermediate but on most all cyls. I always just wrote it off as a vacuum issue (12inHG at idle) and ignored it idled perfect after just a few minutes of warm up ccle. Oil seperator was replaced 70k ago, and I have rubber hoses where the plastic pvc hoses were. Maybe I’ll fork over for a new one pvc hose also.
Does this look odd to you?
I also noticed a lot of “suit” in the engine bay, my air filters were dirty af with oil residue, yet no VC leaks or anything of the sort. Could this be where the vac leak is? I did not retorque the IM as instructed after a few hundred miles or whatever
Mind you I have maybe put 1k miles on the car since new IM, Carbon Clean, etc. Expected it to be cleaner.
I still am seeking the diameter of the test pipe I use in place of the cats for when I cut them out.
Would love to hear how things are going with your car.