I’m running the 10spoke 20"x9" wheel, they were a Euro wheel in the same 26mm offset. I am also running a set of the 19" 10spokes on my S5. Running the 275/30-20 PS4’s on the RS5 and the 265mm tires on the S5. I’ll probbaly upgrade to a better looking (probably BBS, and a pound or two lighter) someday. I have the original Rotors at home, really need to get rid of them. Even though they do look good they are just so damn heavy. As GERMANBrew can probably attest, going to a set of Lightweight wheels definitely makes the car feel better. Way more noticeable than Carbon Rotors as the wheel radius distance from the center is double compared to the Brake Rotors, but it all helps for sure.
would those be the “5 V” rims? according to this 14.1 kg from overview here. The heavy rims can take a beating and if you, like me mostly, roll at relatively even speed, long distances can (at least I think) make the steering more fitting a GT car in the sense you feel the road less and it is less responsive.
Rotational inertia is the square of the radius calculated as the location of the average mass out from the hub times the mass. I believe the wheel is kept rolling/being pushed forward by its mass as it translates to linear inertia or momentum knows as the centrifugal force. If the mass is further out on the wheel this inertia is greater. In how rotational inertia is defined the radius is, four times as important as the mass alone: m(2r)^2/mr^2 = 4 the average mass of the brake rotors is a bit farther towards the hub as well than halfway that of the rims. m(2r)^2/m(0.75r)^2 ≈ 4/0.5 = 8. would make it 8 times as important as the rotors if mass savings are the same
They are not the V-spoke design, they look just like the 19" 10 spoke but are in 20x9". I wish I could grab the part # off of them but I’m currently living in Hawaii with my S5 & wifes Q5 and the rest of my cars are in my shop back in Washington state. I bought a piece of property here and plan to build a shop before the house 
then I can move most of my shop here minus what I plan to sell, do need to downsize. Anyone want a set of Rotor wheels?
That looks like the ones on the S5 right now but the part # on mine is 8T0 601 025 CR, may just be a different color, can’t quite tell from your pic but they look the same.
Yes, the one ending with CR is the same as the one ending with BH. CR I believe newer.
Fits in here mostly as something to be avoided for weight but I am shopping for Winter tyres and wanted to ask what are your views are on XL tyres for the RS5. I mean at braking there is a lot of force on the front tyres and I had one tyre puncture side wall joint along it about a fifth of the circumference was cut open (tyre the Made in Germany Dunlops that came with it from factory). Positive it happened a hard braking. With lighter weight rims unlike the rotors, I have on, XL should definitely not be necessary? Obviously I am buying higher quality tyres and the preference is an SL tyres.
I’d say you should stick with XL tires. Wheel weight doesn’t really make a difference on sidewall bending at braking. Also, non XL tires might have a bit more sidewall play on corners. With that, you put some more strain on the Torsen, and that’s never good.
I am trying to sell my rotors. I wonder where would be the best place to get them sold. They should fit an S5 a bit easier than an A6 but with no wider than 265 tires. A6 needing 255 ideally as I understand. I am considering waiting until my tires are worn out having 275s. An A7 they should fit. The A5 I am not sure. Maybe Facebook groups for the respective model lines…
Finally, after doing the Antigravity battery, the Carbon hood, Forged wheels, complete SAI system delete along with Cats, misc other things…I finally caught the Carbon Brake bug too. First found a set of R8 calipers and in another ad found some new unused reasonably priced R8 Carbon Rotors. The R8 calipers don’t come with the mounting bracket for out uprights/spindles, it is the same part as on the Steel calipers though. Audi doesn’t sell the adapters separately and I didn’t want to take them off of my 10 pot Steel brake calipers, found them at a couple of places online but fairly expensive (Brembo doesn’t sell them separately either). Then I came across a new set of RS5 Carbon brake calipers (so they have the adapters already bolted to them just like the std OEM calipers). Ready to do the install when I get back to WA. Will be selling my 10 pot calipers and wave rotors, actually have two sets as I bought a parts car a few years ago for the engine. May keep one set to go on my daily driver S5…or may just do Carbon brakes on it too if I can find cheap rotors and reasonably priced adapters…or Carbon brakes on my C5 RS6 which has the same 10 pot calipers and 365mm (same offset) front brakes.
2 Likes
This is good to hear! Keep us updated on your progress with them.
The C7 RS6 Performance rear CCB’s fit* but there is a snag that I don’t like:
The caliper carrier bracket requires about a 5mm cylindrical spacer to be sandwiched between it and the spindle. This would be needed to bring it out “away” from the car that 5mm distance to properly center it over the rotor. Without it, the caliper carrier bracket touches the face of the carbon ceramic rotor.
“Why is it like that?” We all asked each other…
You can see the stainless washers we used to find the exact sizing needed to get things lined up. Do not confuse this with the solution. I did not feel comfortable with a hack bandaid so I hit the World Wide Web!
Sometimes you find your solutions in the oddest places:
I was really struggling to figure why there was a difference as very little info seemed to be available. In the meantime, I bought a new daily driver; a 2013 S4 (6-spd) and I was considering swapping my RS5 brakes onto it so I did some research and BAM!!! The info I needed was found with part numbers and images in an Audizine post.
I learned that the RS5 has a different hub pressed into the spindle. It protrudes out 5mm further than most other models giving it a slightly wider track (10mm overall) and it seems that the C7 platform carries both the RS5 hub and the 5mm narrower hub. It lead me to believe that the appropriate way to fix the issue was to replace the hubs with C7 CCB hubs and to subsequently do the universal wheel bearings while I was in there. Brutal cost to stomach at 20k miles on the odometer. I’m going all factory parts so the bend-over was aggressive. So that’s where it’s at right now. The calipers are getting finished up at the powder coater and the new hubs will be ordered tomorrow along with the new bearings. I will have an extra 5mm of clearance in the rears now between the fender lip and the tire. This isn’t the worst thing seeing as the front always had 7.5mm more space that the rears did. Now they will be within 2.5mm.
ECS is a great resource to cross reference part compatibilities. The long story short is we are going from a hub that ends in “D” to a hub that ends in “B”. This is the way…
“D” hub
“D” hub removed from RS5 to check
VS
This “B” hub that has no 5mm collar protruding up above the threaded holes.
Interesting. Are the total heights the same for the two hubs? I would imagine not, or part of the hub would be sticking through the wheel bearing assembly. Looking at FCP’s website it looks like the B8 RS5 uses the same wheel bearing as the C7 S6.
We will find out soon.