Looks like $200 to me. Call your local salvage yards.
Looks great!
Wish I could use the CMM at work to get some dimensions for headers… JHM wouldn’t reply to my emails on cost for a set, and I’ll have to go elsewhere.
With all of the crazy EPA stuff going on and raiding shops. Almost all companies have put talks on headers or any emissions related changes on hold.
What lake did was above what I think anyone really needs to do here. You can just gut the cats but that extra step is clearly not going to do anything but help.
I was able to get $460 from Schnitzer fyi to yall who may have some they want to sell. They offered more than anyone else
That’s a good chunk of change.
Awesome!
I need motivation to put the V10 back IN lol. Been sitting ready to be installed for last two weeks.
Still no radiator solution yet, likely replace with another OEM or nissens equivalent
I had a hard time tracking down the right radiator. My car had the auxiliary radiator so that was a bit tougher. Ended up getting oem from ECS.
Found this out in my dog yard and looks important for heat. Any idea where this was supposed to go? #37
I’ve searched for hours pn 4f0301325 and find generic only
It’s a heat shield but I think it is for the top of the transmission for the wire harness.
I think the half shaft heat shield is 3 bolts.
There are two heat shields on the RH side of the tranny. The three bolt one shields the inner CV joint and the two bolt one (circled in red) sits above it and shields the front differential housing.
Appreciate it gents
Good post eng92
lake that should cover the shifting cable and I think maybe it’s the R selonid or some other 02 wires get tucked in there…
So some words to the wise, dont do as I did and assume where the O2 sensors should go. Best to always mount the headers to the car and mimic its location with perspective to the subframe.
Lucky for me I had drilled and welded two mistake O2 bungs on the opposite side and was able to relocate from under the car everything installed
What I ended up doing was relocate the “lower” WBO2 G39 and G285, sensors that are for CYLs 123 / 678 from below the collector where the cat bung used to be, to above the collector shown below I had capped off.
Then, since the wires were short I tried my best to insulate them as shown below.
Additionally, during the welding or during install of the headers, the pipes were about 5mm lower than they were before the exhaust work.!
I was forced to improvise so I could maintain the use of the subframe cross support bar by lowering it 12mm. Replaced with extended bolts from a porsche for $2 ea, 90mm by 1x10, came out near perfect. Yes, it is a bit lower but maintains functionality.
Fast forward, 5 months later I was able to replace my radiator, the whole reason I started this endeavor in the first. Just a cheap ol Mahle for $230, probably last 4 years, well see.
Put the bumper cover back on and buttoned it up. Btw, using the HF hydraulic table really helps position the bumper and plug all the wires and everything in with just 1 person.
The whole engine, engine bay, undercarriage is competly spotless. Feels like I spent a solid 10 hours cleaning the car sludge off or parts, engine bay, underbelly, etc. The dealer who replaced this engine left a massive mess behind when they just replaced it. Used piping hot water directly to my pressure washer and 15 degree tip to blast it all off. Each part cleaned spotless or replaced. Aluminum brightener works wonders to clean up our aluminum parts. It’s like having a new car now. A PPI would def give it a pass. I’m just stoked and glad I finally pulled the trigger on this 60k mileage audi service these cars need to stay alive sometimes.
Dropped the car today. Finally gets to rest on all 4 wheels again.
Going to let it settle with the new control arms and torque down in a few days.
And of course, always the left over parts. Least time I used all the nuts and screws, no left over hardware haha.
Next, I need to do the first start of the engine and clear any codes, check for codes, let the trans fluid move around while parked and cycle gears. Drive the car a few blocks to cycle the trans and diff fluid. Raise car again on ramps and jacks to level trans. Check trans temp at 70degC or whatnot, drain or fill depending. Last check front diff fluid level after drive.
Last, will flash the updated “stg2” revision to the engine computer and end with the tcu flash to close things out!! Optomistic about the final product.
The curved piece is a heat shield for the driver CV joint.
I tried to search the part number on the bracket but was unsuccessful. It looks like a cable bracket of some kind.
Ed